Gen 2 86 Meltdown- Connector Crisis!

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by zxmikez, Feb 29, 2020.

  1. zxmikez

    zxmikez New Member

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    So I am the proud second owner of a really mint 86 VFR 750. Really nice shape and only a sunday driver because I would like it to outlive me (yeah, im kind of old).

    I happened to check the voltage at idle and discovered that things are not up to spec. From idle up to 5k, it will do from 12.7 rising up to about 13V flat-at the very most. It seems to vary unpredictably as I go up and down the rev range, so that sounded like a connection to me. So, something is off. Battery is relatively new and lives on a tender year round-so that combined with only occasional use probably has been masking some of the issues.

    I started by exploring what might have been done on the bike before me. The prior owner did a nice job of maintaining it cosmetically and mechanically. It has about 20K miles, so I now that both of these components might have lived a long life by VFR standards- and I THINK the R/R is stock.

    So far, these vids should capture what I have found:

    and



    My questions:
    What does everyone think is a good next step? Clip the fried connector and try to test the stator and R/R? Could it actually be good enough to keep and just make a better connection?
    Move to an SH775 for the regulator?
    Would anyone try to clean and save that connector for any reason at all?

    I think I have found some similar connector issues mentioned in the threads elsewhere- so is this a common weak point?

    Is Ricks the best source for a new stator if needed?

    Thanks to all...
     
  2. hondaman219

    hondaman219 New Member

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    Remove the burnt connector and solder the wires. Make sure you get to good wire . Then inspect the connection at the regulator. If everything looks OK then start it up and retest charging. This is easy and cheap to do. If output is low all time then test stater resistance at the plug on the regulator. Remember low rpm means low stator output. Check it at 2000 rpm. Hope it's an easy fix for you.
     
  3. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    ^^ check voltage at 5000 rpm, not just 2000. check stator health in AC volts as manual suggests b4 replacing anything. also check the red plug to the starter relay, another common problem area.

    Picture1-12-2020 036.jpg

    Picture1-12-2020 144.jpg
     
  4. zxmikez

    zxmikez New Member

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    So, here are some updates:
    - I removed the connector btw the regulator and the stator, and then did the usual dynamic and static tests.
    - The stator, which I think is aftermarket, passes both resistance, test for ground, and AC voltage tests- so I need to take the next step.
    - Then I temporarily re-connected the stator and RR using the bare wires (after ditching the connector)--- no dice
    - DC volts start out at 12.8-13, but max there or even drop off a little as I get close to 5k rpms.

    Next steps:
    Check the other connections ( the one from the RR to the harness looks clean and neat). I will look over the solenoid one closer- but in a quick check it looked OK.
    Im tempted to just replace the RR even if I find another problem. Any suggestions on the best one to use? I used an SH775 on another bike with good results..
     
  5. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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  6. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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  7. zxmikez

    zxmikez New Member

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    All good thoughts and thanks...
    Checking the connections and likely ordering a MOSFET from one of those suppliers today. I do have some questions about how they suggest routing into the battery instead of the harness....
     
  8. zxmikez

    zxmikez New Member

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    Looks Just like mine attached in pic here.
    So thanks for that... looks like I have the same affliction and I might not have thought to check that connector without out your good warning...
    So the next important quesiton- what do I do next? Replace those parts with OEM? Whats the smart fix?



    IMG_2981.jpeg
     
  9. zxmikez

    zxmikez New Member

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    another pretty pic
    IMG_2977.jpeg
     
  10. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Like this..........
    [​IMG]
     
  11. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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  12. zxmikez

    zxmikez New Member

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  13. raYzerman

    raYzerman Member

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    The original Gen5 wiring for the RR connects to the battery via a splice and is wired through the main fuse. If you trust the splice to be good, then OK but wiring direct to the battery with a fuse eliminates that splice.
    BTW, if you do ebay for an FJR mofset, they are Shindengen FH020AA's, I'm very familiar with FJR's and nary a failure has occured that I'm aware of. I picked up a second one for my other bike for $40 off a late model with few miles.
     
  14. zxmikez

    zxmikez New Member

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    Thanks
    At the suggestion many including a Roadster, I ordered the FH and kit last night...
     
  15. zxmikez

    zxmikez New Member

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  16. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Which R/R did you get?
     
  17. zxmikez

    zxmikez New Member

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    It’s an SH775. Roughly the same dimensions as the other shinedengen ones, but apparently the most updated/current option
     
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