Wheel Balancer advice

Well heck, what fun would it be if we all agreed on everything? We all agree on the important thing:

VFR'S Rule!!

 

How do you set up the rear? I think I am missing something. The two conical pieces hit each other before they get tight on the wheel. I had to use two sockets to try and get them tight. Now I am debating how well I got it balanced. I sent Marc an email.

 

When you ordered the balancer you should have specified the conical pieces you need. They have
special ones for the VFR rear wheel. It's large in diameter but short in length. Fits the rear wheel
just fine.

 

I did get the HOV kit. The one fits but how do you put the side in? The front wheel is wide enough so it works fine. I can't figure out the back thou.

 

Hmm, it's pretty easy, the large outer diameter taper is what you use for the rear wheel on the side
that fits on the hub. Push up tight and snug down the thumbscrews.

Post a pic of how you're setting it up, maybe they sent you the wrong piece.

 

Wheely Good;

Why not Spin-Test a "bead'd" wheel?
Run it up thru the gears while on the Center Stand, should be smooth up to 150kph.
I've found 17" wheels seem to be most unhappy @ 90kph, higher and then resonance cancels for a while.
The speedo should register, since the Speed Emitter is on the Primary Sprocket (newer V4s).
But bump the Front Wheel up against a Concrete Wall first, in case it gets "excited".

I've watch'd a Dealer Tech try to machine balance my front wheel on a machine,,.. he kept adding weight, and it wouldn't balance,,.. he was running out of room for more lead,,.. till it I point'd out it was a 16" wheel (not 17").

I ask'd some dealers to just charge for a Mount (not balance, I'll do it), but they refused, said they have to also do it.
I would take the wheels home and check Balance, and it was still out, but no more than 7 grams.
I can balance it to about 2 grams (a quality Vinyl Record Player Tone Arm Weight).

If ya wants a job done right,,..
I've done all my own Mount & Balance, for 30 years now.
I also check balance of the wheel right before old tire replace, how far out did they wear?
They are always Out, but not more than 10 grams.
If you start out New, and 7 grams out, it'll be way out at end of life.

 

I remember getting an answer of 100 to 300rpm on a new electronic one! Was looking to buy one a year ago "!"
It had side to side balancing, plenty of adaptors & on a 240v single phase outlet. Maybe another day... lol

I use a static balancer at present - & mount all my tyres.

 

The only problem with using the harbor freight balancer is when you tighten the cone onto the rod, over time the cone will stretch and you will end up with a 'dip' in the cone which will always put your heavy part of the wheel in one spot and it will never balance. Basically you are trying to balance an oval and that aint gonna work. I slid 3 tiny copper wires up inside where the set screw is to take up the space and it seems to work ok but you shouldn't have to do that. For years i have disconnected the brakes and rolled the wheel while mounted on the bike. This has always worked for me. The other thing you can do is leave your axle in and set it on your HF bearing surfaces. Be weary of that set screw on the HF setup. It will fool you into thinking you are balanced and you are not.

 

I got the set from Marc. Turns out my 8 spoke rear wheel needs different spacers. Marc is sending me what I need. I went ahead and balanced the front wheel and the vibration is 90% gone. Once I do the back I am sure it will be butter smooth.