"Bogging down" around 4000-4500 rpms?

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by lickety-split, Sep 6, 2007.

  1. lickety-split

    lickety-split New Member

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    I have a 2006 VFR-ABS with about 5000km on it. Problem is that 2-3 times over the past week, I'll be cruising along about 60km/hr and about 4000rpm and all of sudden the bike starts to bog down. It feels just like when my GS500 would hit reserve, sort of a lurching feeling. That feeling makes me think like there is an interruption in the flow of fuel somehow? It always goes away after a few seconds of giving it ALOT more gas and she's back to normal for the rest of the ride. The bike has been totally warmed up every time its happened.

    Anyone ever feel this or have an idea of what to check?? Thanks for any ideas!
     


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  2. eddievalleytrailer

    eddievalleytrailer Member

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    A tank of bum gas?
     


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  3. lickety-split

    lickety-split New Member

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    yeah, i thought of that, but there was a fill up between incidents, actually two I think, so its been on different tanks.
     


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  4. jeremy556

    jeremy556 New Member

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    Install some O2 eliminators or 330ohm resistors from radio shack.

    At steady throttle 4-5k rpm the PGMFI will adjust air/fuel ratio based on the O2 sensors instead of the preprogrammed map, to lower emissions and improve gas mileage, at the expense of running lean and causing very nasty surging.
     


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  5. tkalfaoglu

    tkalfaoglu New Member

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    I know this must be a FAQ question, but WHERE do you install the resistor exactly?
    Thanks!
    -turgut
     


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  6. koochy21

    koochy21 New Member

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    gday mate
    l had the same problem. l took my bike to the honda dealer and it was fixed by blocking the "Pair valve" this will stop the O2 getting to the O2 sensors and give you the flat spot. you will find it wil also increase the fuel economy too... give that a berl
    koochy
     


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  7. jeremy556

    jeremy556 New Member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062341&cp=&origkw=330+ohm&kw=330+ohm&kwCatId=2032058&parentPage=search

    The PAIR elimination is also a good mod to do, it gets rid of that irritating "thwak" noise from the airbox whenever you roll on or off the throttle and it gets rid of the popping sound (after firing) on engine braking.

    To remove the PAIR system you can just unplug the connector from the PAIR solenoid, or you can remove all the parts and plug the hole in the airbox and the holes in the cylinder heads. I used a rubber vacuum caps from an auto parts store to plug these.
     


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  8. tkalfaoglu

    tkalfaoglu New Member

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    ahh thanks a lot.. those pictures help.
     


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  9. winaje

    winaje New Member

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    And the o2 elimination with the resistors definitely fixed the problem for me.
     


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  10. hondawolf

    hondawolf New Member

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    I just stumbled across this thread. I am having a simular issue with my bike cutting out, but my issue is completly random, it's done it to me twice in two weeks. Both times with a full tank of gas, the bike's engine temp around 170-180, and a warm day around 80 outside. Both times cruising down the freeway. The bike is stock with a K&N air filter. I'll try that PAIR valve mod, and see what happens.
     


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  11. jeremy556

    jeremy556 New Member

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    More likely electrical related. Check your main 30 amp fuse by the battery, the ground wire at the blue harness connection on the left side of the bike, and check charging voltage at 5500rpm with the brights on.
     


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  12. northernrider

    northernrider New Member

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    so in the picture it shows one resistor in the bottom of the plug in , just wondering why the bottom does it matter top or bottom ? or why not one on the bottom set of plugs and one resistor in the top set of plug in
     


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  13. havcar

    havcar New Member

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    There is a natural lag right in that tach range (4300 to 5600rpm) that is present on all stock 6th gens. Mine sort of felt like the choke had been turned up. Going to a -1 front or a +2 rear gearing set-up also helps this issue quite a bit by placing more power into the mid-range. A PCIII is also beneficial for this problem as well as the jumpiness you're probabily getting at off idle speeds.
     


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  14. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    IT can't be true!

    Honda eliminated all fueling problems back in 1998 when they dropped those smelly old carbs for automatic, electronic, self-correcting and self-diagnosing fuel injection, didn't they ???

    The float and needle, and those jets with little holes were just too technical and complicated for anyone to deal with? LOL !
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2009


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  15. havcar

    havcar New Member

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    They tried, problem was that when they started developing the injection mapping, many pounds of peanut shells were in the exhaust. Since they were not aware of this, the FI models were released with many issues. Honda is reeling to this day.

    I'm feeling somewhat dumb right about now, just noticed how old this thread is
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2009


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  16. Shazazz2

    Shazazz2 New Member

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    silly question but once unplugged and resistors are in place, what do i/u do with the connecting plugs that you have disconnected?

    do i just plug/cover them up and leave them in there/attched to the bike?
     


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  17. northernrider

    northernrider New Member

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    i just tucked them up in that little plastic cover that the plugs were in after i taped up the ends to stop dirt and moisture recking the plugs
    just an update , after instaling the resistors i went for a quick ride and i was suprised to feel smoothness in the throttle , very suprised to be honest . i didnt think a 50 cent mod could be that effective . i love the new smoothness and cant wait to connect my PC III when it comes in
     


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