Harsh shifting, noisy

Discussion in '6th Generation 2002-2013' started by Tib99, Aug 30, 2017.

  1. Tib99

    Tib99 New Member

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    Notice lately my gears go in harder than normal, especially 3-4. Dont seem to do it cold, worse as bike warms up. Getting fed up, always something . Had oil changed at dealer this spring, maybe 2000kilos since then... do i need check clutch?
     
  2. dbuzz77

    dbuzz77 New Member

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    not sure if anyone will reply with more experience, i always use amsoil, the engine runs quieter and the shifts are more precise and never miss. i had a harley vrod before this vfr and when i got it the shift made a clank (and other harleys) that made you want to stop shifting. i changed to amsoil and very quiet, precise shifting. now this vfr i got in spring had a brand new oil change i wasn't going to waste and i notice for a bit now i miss some shifts ( get stuck in neutral) and other stuff with 3000 or so km. needless to say the amsoil is going in for the next season. i don't know if this helps.
     
  3. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    If you haven't already done so, I would flush the clutch line out and bleed it carefully. You can also (if you are so inclined) pull the clutch slave off the engine and pull the clutch pushrod right out and give it a clean and grease. Not saying that will fix rough shifting but if the clutch is not releasing nicely that won't help.
     
  4. Tib99

    Tib99 New Member

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    Guess its the least expensive thing to try.... what grade?
     
  5. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Brake fluid should be DOT4.
     
  6. Tib99

    Tib99 New Member

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    And engine oil?
     
  7. SweViffer

    SweViffer New Member

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    10w40. API SF, SG or higher. JASO 4T MA. Honda usually puts in semi-synthetic.

    I experience harsh shifting when (I think) the oil is going bad. An oil change fixes it for me (thus the guess that the oil is going bad), but it's not fun to change oil every 2000km's. Latest oil change I put in Motul 7100, and that oil has stuck around for far longer now.
     
  8. Tib99

    Tib99 New Member

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    Damn amsoil is 16$/litte.... im sure dealer put ordinary 10w30... Hope it fixes it for that price
     
  9. Tib99

    Tib99 New Member

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    Well bought some amsoil 10/40 synthetic oil, ill see what this does...
     
  10. dbuzz77

    dbuzz77 New Member

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    if you join amsoil you can get it a lot cheaper and it pays for itself
     
  11. Tib99

    Tib99 New Member

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    And how do u do that?
     
  12. dbuzz77

    dbuzz77 New Member

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    amsoil.com shows prices for dealers and preferred customers. preferred customers get wholesale or free shipping i believe
     
  13. Tib99

    Tib99 New Member

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    Ok after oil change, bike does rev smoother but changed nothing to shifting. I nailed it down to clutch. Noticed if i only squeeze clutch lever in a bit it goes smooth, but if i pull all the way in its harsh. Is there an adjustment? Usually hydraulic dont have adjustements..
     
  14. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    Look in the sight glass on the clutch reservoir. There should be colour in the fluid in there. If it is dark grey or black, get that shit out of there and replace fluid with new and clean brake fluid. That hopefully will solve your issue.
     
  15. Tib99

    Tib99 New Member

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    I opened reservoir, was a bit dirty but nothing like some people on here. I sponged up all reservoir and filled with new but did not flush line and clutch cylinder. Same problem. Think i might have a look at cylinder and see its travel... is it hard access?
     
  16. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    I have never done that so don't know. I just flush as best I can by syphoning out the reservoir, refill and run the bike a bit, then syphoning and refilling again. I know it is not a really good exchange but some is better than none in my books. Has worked well for me over the 11 years I have had this thing.
     
  17. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Before you disassemble any clutch parts, I'd suggest that you actually bleed the clutch to make sure you flush any old fluid out of the line and the slave. The slave is the lowest point so any solids will collect there and may interfere with smooth action.

    If you do proceed to disassemble the hydraulics it is not a big job so long as you keep everything clean and don't gouge any of the sealing surfaces e.g. master cylinder bore or the slave piston.

    You might also consider replacing the clutch friction discs; my 800 with 90,000km had quite worn discs that made the clutch a bit grabby with a narrow engagement point. Some new discs have made for a wider smoother engagement.
     
  18. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    Interesting. I have never changed the plates on mine and I have over 207,000 km on my bike. I haven't noticed the issues you mention but will feel for it next time I am out for a long ride. Maybe I should be looking and changing mine out too/
     
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