NOW whats the Problem (Electrical)?

Ok.

Just a few questions.
I did a Re-Wire of the R/R and Stator after some Charging issues.

Brand new R/R
Brand New Stator.
brand new battery

I relocated the R/R up under the front cowl (horn Location)
Installed new stator.

Wired 3 yellows R/R to stator plug
Wired 1 red R/R to + battery terminal
Wired 1 Black R/R to - battery terminal

Why wont the battery hold a charge????

Can you fry an R/R because of stator issues?
Could I have shorted out the R/R if initially connecting the +/- backwards on R/R?

Is that considered an open circuit where the old R/R wires were?
Old Red/white (+) and Green (-) . Does the new + R/R wire need to go to the starter solenoid like the old Red/white did?

 

Pearl 93:

If you installed a new RR, stator and battery at the same time it must be something else that's wrong.

To answer a question, Yes, a bad RR can fry a stator. I found out the hard way on that one!

When I get home I am going to check my electrical diagnostics book and see what it says on your issue too.

One question, did you charge your battery before you installed it?

BZ

 

Yes. Battery charged to 13+ volts before install.
I know, silly question but you needed to ask!

I think thats what initially fried my stator, but can it happen the other way around?

New R/R was installed just prior to stator...So could the bad stator have fried my R/R up prematurely?
ex) Order of install:
1. New R/R
2. New Stator

 

Pearl: Have you looked for a short to ground that is discharging your battery?

 

Yes, the old stator, if bad, can fry a new RR. I take it you installed the new RR, rode around for some time then had new problems and then replaced the stator?

The battery charging question was a just in case and nozzle has a very good point too. It may be something that stupid

BZ

Hi nozzle!

 

So you mean...

Trace all Grnd wires back to origin?
Maybe thats it!

I left the original (green) Grnd wire in place when I did the Bypass.
Its still located on back right fairing but has no R/R plug to connect to.
So I need to verify where that one goes to...

Its not in use right now, but if it is left open (not grounded) I guess it could put a drain on the bike right?

Thanks for othe tip.

 

I mean you need to see if your circuit (the electrical system) really is what insulated from a shortcut. Since the negative (-) side of the system is connected to the frame - "grounded" - any wire that has rubbed through its insulation and can contact the frame, or some other electrical path back to the negative terminal on your battery is in effect a "leak" in your electric system that can drain your battery.

If you haven't gotten a 12V test light, get one. They are less than $5 at your local auto store. They look like an ice pick with a lamp in the handle and a wire with an alligator clip coming out of the handle. The if you disconnect negative side of the battery, clip the alligator clip to the wire and touch the pick to the (-) terminal, the light should stay off, if the light comes on, even a teensie bit, then you have a "leak".

finding a leak is a bitch, and will take persistence, but don't let your bike outsmart you!

In an effort to show you what a great guy I am, I'll offer to have Bubba come over and help you diagnose the problem since his bike is closer in age to yours ;-)

Do you have a wiring diagram for your bike?

Google:"how to find a short with a test light" if this doesn't make sense.

 

Thanks for the clarification.
Your a great guy volunterring Bubba to come over and all

Yes I have the wiring Diagram and Manual for the bike.
Though no Probe, only a digital volt/ohm meter.

This sounds like its going to suck!
I'll start with the simplest of the connections tonite (R/R part of the harness)

Thanks

 

I was at John's Hopkins Sat. morning for my son's X-country match, after riding with BZ in the morning. I'd have stopped by then. Get yourself that test light on your way home. It is easier to do the task at hand than the multi-meter.

It can be a pain, but it is also rewarding once you win.

As far as Bubba goes, he wasn't online when I posted, so I didn't see the point in asking first.

Remember:
If at first you don't succeed, succ some more until you do succeed.

 

Thanks Nozzle LOL!

Hey Pearl, I am going to have to get back to you...please be patient.

BZ

 

Just spent about 2.5 hours trying suggestions...

NO LUCK. It seems you were right Nozzle.
Light came on.

Check (-) wire connections (WD40 and cleaned)
Opened up the harness too. All seems OK.
Re checked all Stator, R/R, battery, Solenoid connections...

Still no luck! Light still comes on with the tester. ARGGGHHHH

 

Are you hooking one end of the testlight to the end of the ground wire (heavy wire normally hooked to the battery) and the other end to the gnd post on the batt? If so, and it still lights up (even a dim glow) you have a leak in the elect system for sure. You can try pulling the fuses one at a time watching the testlight for any changes (brighter or dimmer). You MUST do this test with the key OFF! If you pull a fuse and the light goes off, there's your leak. It will be one of the items that fuse powers. If it is still on, unhook items which are not fused one at a time until it goes out. Whichever one makes it go out is the leaker.

If you scratch the ground wire on the ground battery post does it produce a small spark? Turn off the lights in the garage and look for a small spark.

 

ignition key out of the bike might be even better.

next step might be to start wiggling wires with the lights out so that you can see if and when the light changes.... you are looking for when you change the resistance in your short, this will happen if the jiggling moves the wires. You may or may not see it, but since you said it still is lit with all the fuses pulled, you've likely got a goey mess of melted insulation somewheres from when things got hot.

 

Pearl:

I am with Eddie and nozzle, you have a parasitic draw some where in your electrical system. Eddie and noz are on target with looking for the culprit or how to, but we can all keep telling you where to look, but it may be anywhere. Pulling the fuses is a good idea and seeing if the light goes off, etc. It could be a bad diode in the RR draining the battery, could be a bad battery (Yes, I know its new, but it can happen) or just a wire exposed touching the frame, or a sensor is not shutting off and draining the battery.

So here is my recommendation. I purchased a book called "Motorcycle Electrical Systems Troubleshooting and Repair" by Tracy Martin. You can get it on amazon or order it from Tracy directly. He's on VFRWorld and goes by the name 3dogs. I am not trying to pimp his book or anything, but I can tell you this it has helped me understand electrical systems and testing them is not as hard as it seems once you get familier with the testing equipment.

If I had the time I would come over to ol' BelAir. Keep me posted and we will try and keep assisting you on this.

Its probably not as bad as you think. Its just finding the issue.

BZ

 

So here's an idea... Start disconnecting all the stuff you worked on before.

Disconnect the RR - still draining? (leave it undone, but marked)
Disconnect the stator - still draining? (leave it undone)
Disconnect the positive side of the battery - it better go out or you've got cold fusion happening

see... told you Bubba'd come over. you just need to give him some time ;-)

Yeah, the problem is likely not that bad... finding the problem is the hard part .

 

Ok...now I feel like an idiot!!!!!

Thanks for all the posts and help guys. I'll keep you updated about the bike BUT...

I did the fuse tests Nozzle had suggested over the phone. Only problem was I had the ignition key turned ON!!!
I thought I needed this for juice to see the light come on.

I'm guessing if I have the ignition key switched on, that it the probe light will always come on?
Seems as though I need to re-test tonight with the key OFF!
BUT IF I REMEMBER RIGHT, THE LIGHT NEVER CAME ON WITH THE KEY OFF.
Maybe thats a GOOD thing.

Could it be my starter solenoid?
The top red plastic connector fried up because of corrosion a little while back.
I reconnected all wirinin with new connectors.
But the red/white from the R/R goes to the starter solenoid before hitting the battery. Maybe the culprit.

Do any of you guys have the pin-out for the S/S?
Another culprit may be the clutch wires leaving the solenoid.
I connected them backwards at first and saw some smoke come out where the connector is front of gas tank (right side).

Just want to make sure all connectors are pinned correctly
(manual doesnt have pin-out, only wiring flow diagram)

Thanks

 

Do any of you guys have the pin-out for the S/S?
Another culprit may be the clutch wires leaving the solenoid.
I connected them backwards at first and saw some smoke come out where the connector is front of gas tank (right side).

Pearl, have you checked the connections were the smoke came from? That could be an issue, and exposed wires touching causing a drain.

BZ

 

If the light DOESN'T light with the key off, you don't have a drain. It will always light with the key on.
Will the bike start and run if you charge the battery? If so, check the voltage at the battery @4000rpm. Should be 13.5-14.5v. If this is low, the bike is running off the battery and running it down. It is not charging.
Also, will the battery run down (hooked up) if you let it sit overnight? Check the voltage @ battery---let sit overnight---check again. The two readings should be VERY close, if not the same.

 

Like I said before... I feel like an idiot!!!!
There is NO DRAIN.

As for the battery, It holds a good charge around 12.8 - 13.0 by itself.
After the bike starts running though the drain begins.

All wires check out. Everythings connected properly. No burnt wires/connections...seems I opened up the harness and didnt even need too.
More work now to retape and shrink wrap again!!!

I'm going to say all indications point to my R/R again.
I installed this item first, not knowing my stator was bad.
Checked readings- found stator to be bad- replaced

Either my R/R was fried by the old stator, or I fried it ( the diods) by installing the +/- wires backwards during initial installation.
I saw the - or + (cant remember) spark and smoke slightly when I hooked R/R up the first time after I relocated it.

Battery drain continues no matter if the R/R is plugged up or not.
and I know its not a wiring issue now. All new wiring was verified, and No Drain found through (-) neg. terminal.