Ohlins Shock Install

I just recently purchased and installed an Ohlins shock on my 94 vfr. Neither the vfr archives nor the installation guide for the shock were much help in getting everything just right the first time. What follows is my field-tested installation recommendations (as in-oh, oh, that's wrong, back up three steps). For anyone that is contemplating a shock upgrade, you may wanna clip and save for that future day. (As an infrequent guest on this list, I apologize if I'm repeating recent material that I somehow didn't find in the archives.) As you all know, this info would apply to all 94-97 US versions. Choice of weapon: Fox doesn't make a shock for this year model. WP makes one, but no one I know has any relevant experience (please do not deluge me with inf o now that I've already committed my money to Ohlins). Penske can custom-make yo u a shock, but you will need a considerable amount of technical knowledge to describe to the Penske techs just how you want your product-its totally custom. Ohlins makes an off-the-shelf shock that (literally) bolts right up. And-for those who are thinking ahead-the Ohlins has a remote preload adjuster, while th e Penske had none and very well may require removal from the bike for preload adjustments, or serious contortions at the minimum. The Penske comes in 3 flavors: good for $725, very good for $895, and ultimate for $1195. The Ohlin s is typically found for $875 after a 10% discount, and if you look around, you may be able to get it for less-I did. Doing battle: Put the bike on the center stand, and remove the rear cowling, gas tank, and battery. Mark the spark plug wires on the rear cylinder as 1 (left) and 3 (right) so you will know how they go back. Pull the plug wires and liberate the rear coil set from its mounting place and push to a position out of the way. Slide the main fuse off of its mount on the front of the battery box and push i t out of the way-no need to disconnect or remove it. Remove the rubber flap that covers the top of the shock and valve cover-2 bolts on the valve cover and 2 pop-screws on the subframe. Take out the 2 screws holding on the battery box front and remove it. Loosen the bottom and top shock bolts. Standing behind the bike, lift the rear wheel with your hand or with leverage from a 1 x 4 (inches). When you relieve the pressure on the top shock bolt, it will come right out. Now remove the bottom bolt. Secret attack plan: The line to the remote looks too short to attach in the place recommended by Ohlins. Do the following to make it fit right: Remove the 4 bolts that hold the rear fender in place and lower if to the point that the fender is level with the bottom rung of the subframe, right by where the regulator is located. Put the new shock in place with the compression line to the front. Put in the bottom bolt first, and lift or leverage-up the rear wheel until the top bolt slides in. Torque both bolts to proper setting. Put some spiral wrap on the remote line to prevent any paint scratching. Push the remote and line thru the INSIDE of the subframe between the subframe and the rear fender. After the remote passes by the regulator, feed it OUTSIDE the subframe between the frame rails. When finished, the remote will sit aft o f the rear brake reservoir on the outside of the subframe, but the line runs inside the subframe, between the subframe and the fender. The preload adjuster fits quite nicely in the place recommended by Ohlins without much fussing. Reassemble in reverse order, being sure to place the battery box front (which serves as a heat shield) BELOW the remote line exiting the top of the shock. Also place the rubber flap below the remote line to help isolate the exhaust header heat away from the shock. The first 150 miles says the recommended rebound, compression and preload settings are just right, so stay with these until you know for sure that they aren't right for you. Any questions, e-mail me, I will elaborate further.

Craig Daugherty cdaugherty1@austin.rr.com