throttle not snapping back

Hello all,
Noticed a problem with my throttle today. When I go WFO the throttle sticks close to the full open position. I have to force it back closed. It feels like there is something inside I have to push it past in order to get it to close. I have no throttle locks or cruise control devices, just some bar end weights the previous owner put on, I think, they could be standard, I'm not sure. anyone have similar problems and know what it might be or where I might start to figure it out?

 

My 4th gen started doing that. All it took was a squirt or two of wd40 on the mechanism there that has the spring that aids in the return. Then a quick look at the throttle grip where water could get down there there between the starter button housing, so it got a couple squirts as well.. all was good.

 

Sometimes your grip can be too close to the bar end, or the inside of the bar. Or, the linkage needs a good lube. Mine rolls back slower than stock. I'm going to start with cleaning, lubing everything.

 

On my 6 Gen, the grip is actually rubbing against the bar end, so it doesn't "snap" right back but I plan on fixing this soon. It was doing this on my 5 Gen too but during the tech inspection at the track day I attended, I trimmed down the grip and all was good. The bike wouldn't pass inspection until his was resolved.

 

If the PO changed out the bar ends or had that handlebar apart, he should have re-lubed the handlebar beneath the grip. I suspect it has gotten , dry, dirty, grimy or a combination of all and others under there that could be your trouble. But try the easy and cheap ideas first. Periodically you should pull the throttle off and do this anyway. I do. Have done it once since 2006.

 

Is a shot of wd40 the lube you guys use or is there something else i should use that sticks around longer?

 

What they guys above suggested, but I've used 3-in-1 oil for this type cable lubrication. I know the oil doesn't dry as fast as wd-40.

 

So I went to remove the bar end weights and they do not want to come off. The screw in the center just turns and turns and turns and nothing is loosened. I hold the end so it doesnt turn but the screw still just turns and nothing comes off or loosens. What am I missing in the removal of the bar end?

 

You can try pushing the bar end weight inwards while you turn the screw; if you are lucky the stepped end of the weight will engage with the end of the core and stop it spinning. That is if the original parts (especially 12) are in place as these allow the end weight to catch against the inner core and stop it spinning. If not, you could try an impact driver to break it loose but I suspect the screw will have threadlock on it.

If none of the above work and you are desperate to get the end weight off, then drill the head off the screw. You will be able to work on the exposed thread to extract the rest. The core weight is just a press fit with rubber sleeves (10 and 11) and can be pulled out with some effort.

If all you want is to get some grease onto the interface between the throttle tube and the bar, you could unbolt the brake master, then unscrew the halves of the throttle assembly (loosen the cable tension first) and slide that a fair way back along the bar, allowing you to work some grease in there. Remember the housing has a peg that engages with a hole in the underside of the bar to locate the housing, so you need to separate the halves enough to get the peg out.

 

Actually I've been known to use Maxiam chain lube, The stuff that's runny at first working it's way in to all these little places, then it sorta thickens up. I like the little tube there getting it where it belongs. Yea, 3-1 too.

 

I too use aerosol chain lube, I also have one of those nifty little attachments that cost a few $ and clamp on the end of the cable outer to allow the lube to squirt through the tube.

 

One upped me there you did