How to fix common regulator/Stator failures

Found a local guy here who was parting his 08 R1. I grabbed his RR. FH012AA. Now just have to wait for the R/R wire and connectors from Eastern Beaver. This and the new VFRness I hope I will be good for a couple of thousand miles.

 

Hi all,

quick up date on my recent under seat fire (see post 2 + weeks ago)- I have since decided to replace the bike. Whilst disappointing, the correct thing to do.

I have been in contact with Honda UK with regards to UK and US recalls for the VFR who responded as follows:

"the Recalls in the US are not applicable to the UK bikes due to different parts, wiring and harnesses fitted, therefore you are correct in the fact that your bike has no outstanding recalls for this repair".

Should you own a US bike I would advise you check the Honda recalls info on the status of your own bike. If Honda do carry out an investigation on my bike, I'll let you all know the outcome.

 

I would also let them know that due to their use of dodgy connectors and undersized wiring you would not be buying another Honda, these bastards need to be told to lift their game. in particular the stator/r/r connector, about time they came up with a better solution and they will not till they realize the are going to start loosing sales because of their negligence in not making a product fit for service

 

This is all standard VFR stuff. Cut out the connectors, solder across, upgrade the RR and enjoy. Honda is well aware of the issues and does not care about fixing your 16 year old bike for free. Hell, they didnt care about my 3 year old 2007 in 2010 lol. No need to be dramatic, trying argue with Honda and selling the bike etc... Just fix it. We've all been in the same boat...

 

@CandyRed - appreciate your input. Sadly my bike is beyond economical repair given its mileage and the fact that the whole wiring loom needs replacing as a result of the fire, or at very least splicing bits of a new loom in which arguably would take longer. Plus fairings, tank damage, melted fairing on the rear brake lines etc... I'll not go into too much detail.

To the enthusiasts this may all be standard stuff for the VFR of that age, but to me a fire that close to fuel lines scared the life out of me and I'd love Honda to acknowledge that there is a fault with the bike, and better yet do something about it. Sadly, they've just told me, paraphrased "Got your email, glad your OK, no recalls on yours, try a 3rd party who might care, we acknowledge no fault."

Anyway thanks again for the useful thread, wish I'd found it a month ago. I'll stop posting here as really its for help fixing this issue, not complaints of the outcome of not having done so in time!

 

Ricks suck: 11.54v at idle 11.88v rev'd (no load)
11.12 at idle, 11.43 rev'd (loaded high beams & radiator fan)
New out of box, it fails bat, alt, str test.

 

check stator output and make sure battery is charged

 

Bat 13.2 static & 12.4 under load. (EXT14) ... and yes it does fit

 

Thats weird, usually the problem with ricks is them over charging, not under charging. But yes, it is best to avoid ricks/electrosport/etc and stick to oem stator plus FH020 or SH847 regulator/rectifier.

 

Hey, CR, I sent you a PM? Did you get it?

 

Yep I just read it, I'll try to make some time to give you a call when I get off work.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks all. Going to strip the plastics off and have a poke about. Is R/R unit situated on the seat frame rail?

 

Yes Wobbly. On the 5gen its under the seat on left side. Take off rear cowl and have a look, especially the connector for the yellow wires. Good luck.

 

righty ho, thanks chaps. I'll be looking this weekend and fitting a small digital volt meter too. Thanks

 

Sorry for bumping an old thread but many state that the stator is underrated, overheating etc. I firmly believe that the stator is okay, unless you have had a rectifier failure or grounding issues (corroded connectors, etc.). Then it may be toast, or nearly so.

Shunt type rectifiers drain 100% from the stator all the time, even if you use 10%, so it is hard on the stator. But unless the rectifier or associated wiring are disconnected or shorted, the stator should cope.

The series design SH847 should remove all worries of oem stator failure, since it only drains the amount of power that is used, from the stator (being quite low actually, unless you have heated grips, vest, seat, boots and whatnot..).

So my advice would be to check the stator wires for low resistance (almost zero), swap to SH847 rectifier ,install it in a cool place, solder the connectors, and bypass the harness. The cheaper SH775 only works up to 10krpm, so while it mostly works, thr 847 seems a better alternative.

Also, seems that the market is not yet bloated with fake SH775/847 rectifiers, but no doubt it soon will be.

Heres to hoping our bikes last for a long time! :cheers:

Riding on the storm

 

Noticed I may have to be more specific. The stator wires should have low resistance between them, there should be no connection at all, between ground and the yellow wires..

Riding on the storm

 

Um okay, good advice, but I am not sure how it is any different than what was already said or contrary to what you quoted me saying, almost 2 years ago.

 

Only contradiction was to definately go the pricier SH847 way if at all possible. FH12, 14, 18, etc are quite hard to find so cheap that it would make that big of a difference anyhow. Those are MosFET, but still put unwanted drain on the stator. That many claim is dodgy.

I was referring to others, commenting on the stator. I doubt the failure-mode there comes from 1. Crappy connectors. 2. Underrated wiring. 3.Shunt type rectifier.


Riding on the storm

 

Info on obtaining these parts is a bit hard to find. I found some on a Triumph forum. (Apparently english bikes have as crappy OEM electronics as our Hondas)

Shindengen SH847 is apparently only used on a Suzuki VStrom 1000 (DL1000/L1000A), 2014 onwards.

Suzuki part no. 32800-31J00

Riding on the storm

 

Okay, I'm a bit confused over some of these references. Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the alternator produce a varied amount of current
depending on the RPM? So I don't understand these references to "Shunt type rectifiers drain 100% from the stator all the time...". I thought
that the regulator/rectifier took 100% of the electricity from the alternator and either used it to power the bike, or dumped the excess as heat.
I don't understand the reference to only using 10% of the output of the alternator. What am I misunderstanding?