I have a a 2000 Ford Expedition w/ the baby 4.6L V8 I have developed a miss under load w/ no check engine light. Indicating the dreaded coil pack failure w/o a code the only way to fix it is by replacing all 8 coil packs. My question to anyone who has replaced theirs did you use Motorcraft(ford) coils, standard after market part house coils or after market high performance coils. Ironically the high performance coils are the least expensive; what did you choose & why? I am a former Chevy guy (except for my old 1960 F100 pick up, which very well may end up w/ a chevy drive train by completion) & don't know much about this other than what the boys @ the local shop told me.
tBONE- I have an '02 F-150 I had a similar problem last year. I ONLY had to replace 1 coil pack. I believe it was #1 that had the issue. All said and done it cost about $190 for the dealership to do it includeing parts. I suggest ONLY USING MOTORCARFT PARTS for something like this. I've had bad experiences using even quality parts for engine mantainence. Stick to the manufactures suggestions for these things...you'll be happier in the longer run! Iwould think that sooner or later you'll get the C.E.L. to come on and it will be able to tell you which cylinder the culprit is! I noticed the slight miss, and did see the light come on for almost 2 months when it was bad enough to register a code. Hope this helps- Check out F150 online...your engine is the same! http://www.f150online.com/ they have alot of helpful stuff on there, similar to our friends here on VFRworld
Ford Recall Just saw this thread and thought everyone with these vehicles should be aware of an important safety recall. On August 3, 2007, the Ford Motor Company announced the recall of an additional 3.6 million vehicles equipped with a defective speed control deactivation switch (SCDS). The switch is located on the driver’s side of the engine compartment attached to the front of or below the brake fluid reservoir. Overtime, the switch can become corroded, overheat and catch fire. Leaking brake fluid can seep past the “kapton” seals and enter into the electrical portion of the switch. This leads to a conductive path for electricity to flow. The switch was designed to only handle 1-2 amps of an intermittent load. The SCDS on Ford vehicles is installed on a 15-amp circuit that is constantly energized because it is part of the electrical circuit that operates the brake lights. Because the circuit is constantly energized, a fire can occur at ANY time even if the vehicle is not running. Ford has announced the fix for the problem will be a fused wiring harness that will be put into the speed control system. It will act as a circuit breaker cutting off the electrical current to the switch in case of any increased power as a result of a leaking switch. If a short develops, it can generate temperatures around 6782 degrees F. Brake fluid has a flash point of approximately 374 degrees F. It will auto ignite around 1094 degrees F. Below is a current list of Ford vehicles which are equipped with the recalled switch. I have also included the non-recalled list of vehicles with the same or similar switch. ***Do not park the vehicle in your garage or in close proximity to any structure until the repair has been made. ***RECALLED VEHICLES If you personally own one of these vehicles, you should take it to a Ford dealership to have the cruise control switch replaced. If replacement is not available, have the switch disconnected. 1992-1998 Crown Victoria 1992-1993 E150-350 van 1997-2002 E150-350 van 1996-2002 E450 van 1994-1996 Econoline van 2000-2002 Excursion 1997-2002 Expedition 1998-2001 Explorer 2001-2002 Explorer Sport 2001-2002 Explorer Sport Trac 1993-1996 Bronco 1993-2002 F150 2003-2004 F150 Lightning 1994-2002 F250 1994-2002 F350 1994-2002 F450 1995-2002 F53 motor homes 1994-2002 F550 1993 Ford F-Series pickups 2001 F-Series SuperCrew 2002 Lincoln Blackwood 1993-1998 Lincoln Mark VIII 1998-2002 Lincoln Navigator 1992-1997 Lincoln Town Car 1994 Mercury Capri 1992-1997 Mercury Grand Marquis 1998-2001 Mercury Mountaineer 1998-2002 Ranger 1993-1995 Taurus SHO ***NON-RECALLED VEHICLES The same or similar switch is installed in 16 million Ford vehicles. If you personally own a non-recalled vehicle with the same switch, you should take it to your Ford dealership to have the switch replaced or disconnected at your cost. Park it away from your home. 1997-2002 Econoline 1995-2002 Explorer without IVD 1994-1998 Lincoln Mark VII 1993-1995 Mercury Sable 1993-1995 Taurus 1994-2002 Windstar
tHANKS- Yeah I forgot to mention dealership did the deactiveation while it was in the shop for the above mentioned fix. Took all of about 2 hours for both...
Dude, Check the coil on the right hand side of the truck in the back. Make sure that the A/C or the heater lines are not leaking on it. Pull it out and check if it is wet. Thats the one we replace the most.
By right I'm assuming you mean the passenger side; & that would make sense as I first noticed the problem only when using the A/C & it seemed to go away when the a/c was turned off. It is pretty consistant now no matter what, thanks for the heads up. One sided - Thanks for the recall info, I was going to do the repair myself but seeing as how there is a recall I might take it in & have it done. As a mechanic(hvy trk/diesel) I feel silly taking stuff in to be fixed when I'm fully capable & the wife has a habit of bringing that up when I say just take it in:redface:
I know how it is tbones-I received this in an email from the Chief of my FD. It has been a possible cause of several house fires in the area so I just want everybody that needs the work done to know get it fixed. I *believe* you can make it temp. safe by unplugging the electrical connection on the front of the master cylinder. My Exploder was on the list and my dealer had the fused wiring harness to install, it took about 30 minutes to complete. Well I think my wife is about to have my newest child now so I guess she might like me to take her to the hospital now, so everybody wish me luck!
Dude, this is all you need to know: It's a Ford. Since it is a Ford, that means it's a total POS. I know, I own one. To add to that problem, Ford dealers are without doubt the single worst I've ever seen in my entire life. My current 2005 F-150 is the 2nd worst vehicle I've ever owned. To add depth to that statement, I've owned 39 4 wheeled vehicles in my life. This F-150 is my 1st Ford & will undoubtably be the last Ford I ever own in my life. If someone gave me a new Ford of any type, I would sell it immediately. I'm soon ordering either a GMC Sierra or Nissan Titan to replace my F-150. My advice to you is to set the vehicle on fire & claim it for insurance. KC-10 FE out... lane:
Absolutely agree. My last vehicle was a Ford. I had more problems with that heap of S--T than all other vehicles I have owned combined. When I finally got rid of it I had had 23 design or quality control failures.
When you put wrenches to vehicles for a living (& file warranty)you realize they are all POS doesn't matter whose emblem is on the front of it. They all have there annoying quirks & problems; kinda like trying to find the perfect woman. After a while you just settle for one you can live with & are 80% happy with. Like the old adage says " If it's got tit's or wheels sooner or later it's going to give you problems". For those of you of the female gender I'm sure the reverse applies but man law prohibits me from dicussing that any further:biggrin:
On my wedding day, my father said this to me (& this IS NOT is any way an exageration) right in front of all the groomsmen: "Son, I should of told you this a long time ago. If it flies, floats or f$cks, rent it, don't buy it." Funny, I've been happily married to the same women for almost 11 years and my parents hate each other. When I say hate, I mean HATE. They never got divorced because they said they couldn't afford to live without my fathers insurance. Sad really. Back to vehicles. I've owned 2 VW's, & neither of them have given me a single problem other than normal wear & tear. Both are a model of reliability, style & craftsmanship. The GTI is so much fun to drive, I'm surprised I still have a license. I had a 92 Chevy Camaro RS which to this day is my favorite car I've ever owned. It too never gave me the slightest hiccup. I bought it for $2500 with 85K miles because the owner said it didn't run right. It didn't run right because it had the original plugs, wires, cap, PCV valve, EGR valve, O2 sensors, air filter & fuel filter. The fact it even ran is a testament to the reliability of Chevy V8's. After a complete tune-up (cost less than $100) it ran like a Swiss watch for 2 years until I sold it with 185K miles. Simply put, Ford blows. If they went out of business tomorrow, I wouldn't care in the slightest. I would feel bad for the thousands put out of work but at least they couldn't inflict their POS's on the world anymore. KC-10 FE out... lane:
I have an 02 f-150 with the 5.4L in it. Awhile back I developed a miss as well. I took it to autozone and had them run one of the testers on it. The code read that I had a mis fire opn the #2 cylinder. So I took a guess that is was one of the coils, and bought a motorcraft coil from autozone for $40.00. The coil was held in by one 8mm bolt and it took me about 20 minutes to change out. My check engine light went off and the problem was solved. So far that is the only thing I have had go wrong with this truck and it has 100k on it now. On another note my wife drives a ford ranger with the 3.0 in it. This truck is a tank! since I have had it I have changed plug and wires once, put 3 batterys in it, and replace the original AC condensor with an aluminum condensor ( the OEM was steel wrapped in foam it held codensation causing it to rust) Her truck now has 185K on it and I wouldnt be suprised to see it go to 250K.
So true. Several years ago I turned wrenches for a Ford dealer, then went to work for a Toyota dealer. I expected a huge difference in the POS level...nope.
I have a Ford F-350 van with a V-10 and I had the same problem no light came on . The mechanic said that he would have to replace all of them,but it seemed to be missing on only one. I went to NAPA and bought one for about 70 bucks and started removing one at a time and changing out with new one until I found the bad one. Now the Van runs great again and I only spent 70 bucks.
