It's my turn for a stator and regulator/rectifier change.

Is it bigger than stock?

 

Hey Mofo. The 847 is about 1" bigger each way then the FH020AA so you will need to find a mounting spot. I bought the FH020AA Super kit a few years ago for my 5-Gen and it fits in the original location. The kit is an easy install, as said before cut out the connector and solder the yellow wires and mount a volt meter. Mine runs much cooler then stock and is constant 14.2v. Good luck, no wrong choice.

 

Thanks Laker. I ordered the FH020AA as Jack suggested. Stator is on its way also.

 

Duccman, any chance you can text me a photo of your mounting bracket and the new location? Thank you.

 

Mine (847 series-type reg/rec from 2014 Suzuki DL1000) ended up here:



I couldn't find anywhere else to put it on a 3rd gen...

Ciao,

 

Just finished the main install, but didn't fire the bike until I put the coolant reservoir back.

 

View attachment 40949 burnt connector.

 

Thank your, but I had to get one from the guy who sold me the rr.

 

Morning Guys

Just a question. Is there any way to avoid replacing the stator? Will a regulator replacement while the stator is still working not save it?

 

I've just checked correct voltages and amps with a 60w lightbulb of mine without diassembling it from the bike. Check voltages between 3 possible pairs, if they are the same and over 15v at iddle and 100v at 5000-6000rpm i would say its ok, and then with a lightbuilb connected on 3 possible pairs check if it lights the same way for the 3 possible positions, if you've got a ac amp meter you could just shortcircuit instead of use the lightbulb to check correct amp wich should reach 25-30 amps afaik.

 

100 VAC is pretty high, don't you think? Is that one of those "High output" aftermarket Ricks/Electrosport/etc Stators? I thought it was supposed to be around 60 VAC. Are you testing phase to phase or phase to ground??

Be sure to test the stator while the engine is hot, as some shorts will not show until the engine is hot...

When a short is detected Hot and or cold, via resistance test or a phase has lower output than the other two, it is time for a new OEM stator, replacing the RR will not save a dead or dying stator. The insulation between coils has failed and it isn't coming back. Be sure to go with a new high quality RR like the Shindengen SH847 or FH020.

 

Yes, maybe it wasn't at 4-5KRPM, but 9-10
I've not tested them with bike hot and you've got a good point there. I've tested phase to phase indeed, i've not checked earth to phase continuity with engine hot (but stopped), i'm planning to do so this weekend because of your comment.... Anyway, when cold they looked ok at infinite resistance.
Afaik my stator is the OEM one but i've not really seen it, so who knows... Bike has been purchased on 2015, and that 100 volts where just a memory from some months ago when i checked them, so yes, 60 should be ok too at 4000-5000rpm
Some time ago I've purchased a chinese 40usd stator that sits around my desk with no purpose at all since i've seen photos on the net of the original one with the nice epoxy insulation and all, so if it's working there is no reason to change to a worse stator with just that brown minimal barnish layer of insulation.... My plan if the oem fails is to manually rewind it and use some good epoxy insullation layer by layer, and just use the chinese one as a temporary replacement.
But since i've changed the r/r my volt meter says all is ok at 14.2 lights off and 13.8 lights on, so no worryes for now.
I've got to test amps with a ac clamp and earth to phase when hot as you stated.
Thank you!

 

After installing a new stator and rr, seems my problem didn't get fixed.
Rode the bike for three days with no issues, but last Monday night I, again had no low or high beams. This time lights came on 2 miles from home.
What do you guys recommend I check next?
Thank you.

 

lights where the only thing not working? I would check lights switch, bulb connectors, and the lights relay... If they where the only thing that does not work.
My right bulb connector got burnt because of a rusted faston connector inside (i guess the negative one)

 

Step one, for owning a VFR:

1.) Install a voltmeter.

 

Yes, battery is new, fully charged and I keep it on a battery tender.

 

Yes, lights were the only ones not working. Checked and cleaned light switch and start switch already.
I noticed the left relay gets warm while I turn the bike on. Swapped the relays around, and the left side still gets warm.