Valve Job gone bad

I've had my bike a couple years and it was time to check the valves... 9 were out, and I replaced the shims. Things went wrong when I realized my permanent marker markings on the gears had worn a bit, and while fiddling with it I ended up a few revolutions off. I followed the manual's instructions started at TDC on 3, put in the rear cams, then again with TDC on 4 and did the fronts. The problem is, if both cams are out, does the motor care which stroke is compression? That's determined by the cam pulse generator on the intake cam on 1/3 right?

I put her back together on that assumption, and she's not running right. I'm going to start with spark tomorrow, then idle speed adjuster. Would the thing run if I had put the cams in wrong? No FI light or anything. Only other thing I can think of is vacuum lines, which I will also check out in the morning. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

 

Video please, it would not run if you are all the way around wrong, but it would run weird if you where a tooth off on one cam... And since there are 4 of them there is a big chance that happend.
Other possibility is that the shimming where too tight and now one or more of your valves are not closing at all.
https://youtu.be/8ORLepeGC-0
Check this video on minute 3, the engine was one tooth off and worked, but worked bad, that might give you a clue.
Keep us in touch so we can help

 

I think the firing order can change if you time the cams on one bank 180* out compared to the other bank and cause running issues

I'd go back and ensure it's times correctly. Just follow the procedure in the manual to time the engine as if you are assembling a new motor.

 

Hmmm afaik if you rotate 180° the cams on one bank you are going to hit valve on piston and mess up the whole thing
Following the procedure is your best bet indeed.
Just take your time and check things twice.

 

Thanks for the help everyone. FWIW the bike is a '98. Update:

I picked up a timing gun before I started this morning. Timing is correct, cams are in the right place. Whew.

The first problem was that it would die at idle...

I pulled the air filter, and it was still damp. I feel like an idiot, I washed it yesterday morning and put it in without realizing how much water was in there. It's drying out for now, and is what I'm really waiting on... The bike ran without it, and things were better, but died at idle. I imagine the lack of filter may affect the vacuum... Could be wrong.

I adjusted the idle speed. Now the screw is pretty much all the way clockwise, idling at 1400 so it would run without throttle input.

It sounds smooth but it will stutter when I grab the throttle too fast. The gas has been in there a while (not to mention leaking a bit when it was off the bike.

Tomorrow I will:
1. Install the housing and air filter
2. Triple-check the vacuum routing
3. Add fresh gas

If that doesn't get me there, I'll post a video.

 

And? Was it just a at filter?

 

I'm interested on what happend too, i've got to make a valves too. How much did you spend on parts? Thank you.

 

Sorry for the delay. I went back to triple check timing and realized what had happened. Ignition coils 1/3 were switched. Apparently the previous owner switched the coils and wiring, so when I put the wires back as I found them, but the coils according to the book I ended up switching them. It ran like a charm from that point. I felt like an idiot, but its all good now.

 

I needed 9 shims so I got this: https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Cams-HCSHIM04-7-48mm-1-50-1-75mm/dp/B000GTSA7U
Its a refill for the kit for 1.50-1.75 shims, which were exactly what I needed since everything was tight and mostly 1.78's... Hopefully I never need to buy more.

$38 shim kit
$80 oil, filter, spark plugs
$5 silicone gasket (didn't need it)
$5 feeler gauge

If I were doing it right, I would've bought a Honda air filter too, but I'm looking for work at the moment, so the filter got a wash.

Overall, I'm really glad I did this myself. But its not a job for the faint of heart.

 

What about throttle body sync? I would like to perform a full service of the engine including oil, filter, throttle sync, valve clearance, clutch (behaves weird when cold) and thats it.
I'm a mechanic myself, but i've got a tight budget to deal with, so thats why i asked.
Thank you very much for all the info!

 

If your talking about the starter valve sync, I didn't mess with it. I didn't have a good reason to do so. Idle air adjustment was enough fine tuning to make her sing.

 

[DLMURL]https://vimeo.com/199386623[/DLMURL]
I just feel it could idle better. (Or smoother) sorry that i'm talking spanish there (my main lang)

 

Was the choke open in that film? Was the engine warm?

I'm afraid your knowledge may be far deeper than my own but my first thought is to run the "startup" procedure and check idle speed:

I believe the start-up procedure is to open up the choke until idle speed hits 4000 RPM, then close choke. Idle speed should settle around 1200 RPM (depending on region). If not check page 3-14 of the manual for the idle adjustment. It's a set screw (+shape) accessible through the frame on the right side. Just pull out the rubber grommet. Bring the rpm to correct idle speed while running by turning the screw.

What is the clutch symptom you are having?

 

Thanks for the advice, in this case the engine was completely cold, the choke is automatic, as it is a 2001 5th gen, idle speed is fine (once at working temp), it's more a feeling that it could run smoother than a justified belief.
The clutch behaves like engaging abruptly with a rattling noise when cold, once hot (after 15-20 min ride) gets smoother, my two candidates are, oil not good for this bike, or steel plates burnt (the ones that are just metallic with no friction compound on the clutch)
When i bought the bike it was neglected maintennance since old times... I've got even to resolder a steering bearing hole on the frame to get it running properly. Now it at least runs corretly on cycle part, but i've not checked the engine other than oil, filter, and coolant replacements.
The oil is motul 7100 10w50 btw, it's a little bit too much for this bike maybe, but i just wanted to "purge" the system with a good synthetic oil this time.