Stubborn screws

I'm in the process of fitting a new rear shock to my '96 750 but I have encountered a really annoying problem. I need to remove the battery tray but there's space of screws holding it in place that refuse to budge. I'm really wary of chewing the heads up so have even gone to the expense of getting a proper JIS (not Philips) bit but even with an impact driver they won't budge. Because they are at the bottom of the tray even drilling them out and retapping looks like a real pain so I wondered if anyone else had encountered this problem and if so how did they resolve it?

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If they are that stuck, maybe drill out the heads enough to remove the tray and then reseat the tray with new self tapping screws. I don't think this will devalue your bike unless you let the cat oot of the bag...

 

Putting the proper screwdriver on and pounding a few times with a hammer usually helps loosen a screw or bolt. :triumphant:

 

You could try a butane pencil torch to heat them first.

 

Heat gun or a very good hair dyer, some good ole thread penetrating oil, there's many variations out there, haven't a clue what you have on hand there, I use Aero Kroil, great stuff just for this sort of problem Heat up the screw area, spray a bit on he screw heads, let it sit 6 hours. Then also as you noted, get the right fitted Phillis head with a metal handle and tap the shit out of it. with a bit of a pray it should break lose, one might have to repeat this a couple three times. Once out, replace them with Stainlees button heads if by chance that doesn't work out the way it should, yes, you'll be drilling the heads off.

 

Although you might have already bought one, as you mentioned buying JIS and using an impact driver. However, if you haven't, Vessel makes a nice JIS screw driver with built in impact driver. Put the driver onto the screw and smack the back of the handle with a hammer, Bob's your Uncle. The other forementioned suggestions would also help.

 

I did this, to get the stubborn screws out of the airbox plenum on my ST1100; worked great. Drilling out should be a last resort, it is a giant PITA.

 

If this problem is found on other bikes, it might be a good idea to determine if the battery tray is steel or plastic before using any of the heat sources mentioned above.

There was this harleydood that took a cutting torch to some stuck screws once. Just once.

If ya take a look at most of those off the shelf mixtures used to get screws loose, many of them are not much more than kerosene. (UK paraffin) Kerosene is slow drying.

Another trick is to induce even more oxidation creating fresh rust on those stuck screws. A drop or two of household bleach sometimes works.

 

A technique that I have used many times on phillips screws that have been buggered up in the past is to use a punch and peen the head slightly to close up the + in the head, then reform the head by hitting with the proper size phillips screw driver, then use an impact driver to loosen. You need to increase the contact area as much as possible.

 

Vibratite

https://www.vibra-tite.com/products/specialty-products/vibra-tite-drivegrip/

I have used this quite a bit in some pretty tough conditions, works pretty good. This with an impact driver help quite a bit.

 

Sometimes you just feel like you're throwing a hot dog down a hallway.......every little bit of grip can help.

 

Learn something new every day, look like a great product.

 

Yeah, I like that word...... ; )

 

I'm very sorry to hear about your problem leafy - I think we've all encountered it - maybe this will help :glee:
Www.astroglide.com

 

Siezure

Vibratite is the same as putting some Valve Grinding Compound on a driver tip, but more convenient.

Another solution is to use Left Hand Drill Bits. The drill spiral goes in the other direction, you put the drill in Reverse.
Often the drill bit will hook up and the broken screw spins right out.

 

Getting screwed by the screws could happen. Getting screwed by the inmates is likely aka, "Big Bubba rides again." This for all the fast guys who are aboot three times the posted limit according to some. LOL

Whacking on that switch with an impact driver or a ballpeen hammer or a drift, or loading up an electrical switching mechanism with penetrating oil might not be a great ideas.

Mthinks in AMs case like using Teflon tape on a threaded element, that lock washer may have been some of the problem.

 

Looks like the Vibratite name should be copyrighted just in case of confusion. Scrolling down a half page get a better price than the 60+ pesos that comes up first.

Another solution is to use an "easy out" ( eze oot ?) or similar tool if access is possible several iterations on Google under "easy out".

Left handed bits can work well too. They need to be centered and close to the diameter size of the bolt body. Too small a bit and the bit could snap.