How to fix common regulator/Stator failures

Guys is this th RR from the R1 I would replace my 2000 bar with? If so it is substantially cheaper than the on from Roadstercycle.com.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Regulator-R...ash=item33a4ce01b8:g:IXoAAOSwu4BViRhG&vxp=mtr

 

You can be pretty sure that isn't an OEM (Shindengen) regulator. These unknown make Chinese regulators may work OK or may not. There are no specifications listed, so you're gambling that it is equal to a genuine Yamaha part. It happens I am running cheap Chinese R/Rs for which I had full spec sheets and so far so good, but it's a risk.

 

I see the difference now between that one and an OEM one here. Also I can see the model # underneath.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-05-06-YA...ash=item465469589b:g:YGcAAOSwHxVW7EK5&vxp=mtr

 

If something appears to be too good to be true, it usually is! Although you may from time to time find someone who doesn't know what they have, many times these go really quick to someone who does know!

 

Yeah that does not make fell me all warm inside with the VFRness in my hand at the moment. The harness I have goes in between the RR and the stator. I will be ordering the FH020AA from Roadstercycle. I just don't know if I install this VFRness with the new RR or just bypass it all together and soda the wires directly. I hate pushing this bike I really do!

 

I don't have a VFRness on my 99. Soldered the 3 yellow from the R/R directly to the 3 from the stator. 42K+ miles later, no fires.

 

OE R/R and Stator? NICE!

 

I will add to my previous post... The Chinese R/R I chose isn't a replacement for the FH020AA, which is rated at 35 amps, I think. The one I used is MOSFET, rated for 60 amps, and is twice the size of the Yamaha part. It cost about $60, which is still cheap. It is sold as a heavy duty replacement for Hayabusas. I mounted it on the left passenger footpeg bracket where it is out in the breeze and stays nicely cool. The eBay seller I bought from doesn't list the same part any more, but I bought three. One for the VFR800, one for the VF750, and one to carry whenever I go for a long ride. I tested all three with heavier loads than normal (charging a dead battery and running with a fully charged battery and all fuses pulled except ignition). They passed the tests. I measured the amperage from my stator, and it maxes out at about 28 amps AC at 4000 RPM, less at higher and lower RPM. The R/R should be well within ratings, but some stuff from China is made from counterfeit parts and may fail. I know I'm taking a risk, but if it turns out OK (two years so far) I'll write up all the details of what I did, because I rewired the rest of the charging and battery circuit while I had everything apart.

 

I got the roadstercycle fh020aa with fuse and harness direct to battery. To me that made more sense than running it back through the original vfr wiring harness

 

nah.

aftermarket MOSFET R/R, and OE stator. OEM R/R's only seem to be good for about 25K miles at best

 

sh847--- cut plug off and pulled three yellow stator wires threw to the left side and soldered.
Relocated.

And still have the OEM stator......40,000 miles



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Better look at Jordan's post on VFRD, his stator had about the same mileage as yours but he swapped his as a preemptive measure. The stators on these seem to cook over time and his, although appearing to be working well, was really a few steps away from failure.

 

Okay thanks D


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I've got 72K on mine.

 

Not sure what area you reside in but So Cal temps have our bikes running at the upper end of the temp scale a good portion of our rides.

 

If I had to guess, I'd say the stators crapping out has more to do with the strain of a failing R/R, harness (connectors), bad battery etc.. than ambient riding temps. The stator itself is in a oil bath. Although, maybe indirectly the ambient temp might be the case, I can see the R/R's not being able to cool down nearly as well in hot SoCal weather and having a shortened life. So by default the stator isn't going to live as long either.

My bike's seen a lot of miles in hot weather. I think the only reason the OE stator has lasted this long is because I swapped out the R/R before it hit the point of no return. If you toast a R/R and connector, most definitely go ahead and swap out the stator too.

 

Seems more like half bathed in oil. I do agree the wiring has a big part in stator life, yet all of the stators I've seen that are dead are all black and toasty on 3/4 of the unit and just a small part that looks light brown. In Jordan's case one of the coils had pretty much melted off the wire sheathing and looked to be on its way out. He did replace both stator and RR but I think he went with OEM for both.

I have been a little more diligent with my connector inspections after my stator and RR went South.