I have seen quite a few post on soldering the RR/Stator wires and equally, the number of members reluctant to do so as their soldering skills may not be up to snuff. I found this video this morning and thought it might be helpful. Hoping that some of those who do their own soldering can confirm or deny the practices shown in this video. I thought it was well made and seems to be accurate from my experience. [video=youtube;Zu3TYBs65FM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zu3TYBs65FM&app=desktop[/video]
Good video, no sound required. I recently learned you have to have a little solder on the tip. It helps transfer the heat. If you don't, it'll be difficult to get the wire hot enough to melt the solder.
Nothing really wrong there. The can of flux is a bit overkill, IMO. The solder already has a rosin core, I've never used excess flux when simply soldering wire ends on a bike harness. It will help for sure if the wires aren't clean for whatever reason, but generally the rosin core will flow and distribute nicely. Also, instead of ruining a kitchen sponge, just wad up and wet a paper towel. The only other thing I'd change is when he shows a regular solder iron and mentions circuit board work. I'd recommend a decent digital station (IE a Weller) for going anywhere near electronics. You'll want to be able to control the temp accurately so you don't fry components.
I agree. Don't always need to use the extra flux if you have rosin core solder as that seems to work fine but he does mention that is added precaution in some cases. I use an old sponge for wiping the tip and works well since you can re-use. One sponge makes about 4 pads to go into my Weller solder station. I also prefer soldering iron as opposed to that big gun but I mainly am soldering electronics and smaller wires and not larger stuff like him. I have a little kit of different sizes heat shrink I am using up. When that is done, probably will switch to the adhesive lined waterproof type heat shrink tubing instead of regular. You could use his dielectric grease idea but easier and cleaner to use the different type heat shrink nowadays. Pretty good video though that shows the basics accurately.
I know that twisting the wires together like that is how it should be done but in most cases it is impractical due to space constraints. What I do and I have been doing this for 50 years I clean the wires with steel wool as best I can to get the copper shiney, sometimes they are badly oxodised, then I heat the end of the individual wires, and get a coating/blob of solder on each wire. Slip on a piece of heatshrink, bring the 2 wires together and then melt the solder on both wires together. I have very rarely had a join like this fail and I have done thousands of them
Wow! You've been soldering as long as I've been alive! If it's any consolation I usually use the method you describe too.
When my neighbor (bike builder) and I did the rectifier mod, he spread the wires on both ends and pushed them into each other like you can do with your fingers and then soldered them, finished with heatshrink. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the video. Many good tips. I'll be re-doing my R/R soldering job this winter since I now know who to do it properly.
I used to solder with lead solder with a respirator on, I can't say I was soldering my ass off but I did notice a difference when I started using a respirator (no more caughing) place I work at now doesnt let you were a full mask :crazy: Key to soldering is keep your tip clean, use a sponge that is very wet to clean your tip, have your heat up, solder should instantly almost vaporize when you touch the tip to it, and coat your tip. I used to use strong maginfying glasses so I could watch the solder dry, it would turn from a silver to a duller colour in about a one one thousand of a second, and thats it. My stuff was going up in airplanes so I was well trained. On my bikes, I use but connectors with heat shrink tubing waiting up the wire for the heat gun. I cut the plastic of and use the naked connector, crimp the ends and introduce the solder. Done. Follow it up with some tough aviation grade heat shrink and its good to go to CAliFonia.
