84 vf1000 engine swap

Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by docbubba, Aug 11, 2016.

  1. docbubba

    docbubba New Member

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    hey everyone. I have an 84 vf1000 ready for a motor swap. Brought my carbs to a local guy and now he cant find them :crushed: if he cant locate them, does anyone have a line on a set of carbs? ebay has one set in london of all places. i can post in wanted area as well, but people see more on the forum threads.
    wish me luck, this is a project with my 15 year old son. awesome bonding time!
    thanks,
    doc
     
  2. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    How can you lose a set of carbs? Something is fishy.
     
  3. RotaryRocketeer

    RotaryRocketeer New Member

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    You should post this in the 1st & 2nd Generation forum. Somebody will know something.
     
  4. RotaryRocketeer

    RotaryRocketeer New Member

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    Yea, I think that's a bit much to swallow. "Hey! Sorry man, I lost those unobtanium carbs that you brought in. Hope that's okay!"
     
  5. speed

    speed New Member

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    Doc, When you took the carbs to him did you get anything in writing ? Receipt ? He probably sold them. I would be all over his ass but leave your son at home on the visit lol
     
  6. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    Make sure you post your location, who this guy was before someone else gets stung.
     
  7. docbubba

    docbubba New Member

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    thanks guys hes local in small town cant send Veto to erase him. He did call me and miraculously found both sets of carbs. unfortunately my motor swap failed some guy in CA sold me wrong motor. Kid and i spent hours trying to get it in, finally measures some things up, totally wrong casting. i have no idea what 1000 cc v4 is now sitting in my shop lol.
     
  8. docbubba

    docbubba New Member

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    found an engine lookup site. i have a 1984 vf1000r motor thats why it wont fit. son very dissapointed.
     
  9. RVFR

    RVFR Member

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    Thats actually a very cool motor only made a couple years , but yea that won't fit. With luck it shouldn't be to hard to move though.
     
  10. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    You would think the 'R' engine would be the hotter engine but according to my 'Honda V4' book the 'F' engine actually makes more power! Hope you find a good one, somebody will need the R.
     
  11. docbubba

    docbubba New Member

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    hmmm wiki vfr site says this

    The heads of the engine were also redesigned relative to the "F" model, with a redesigned squish zone in the combustion chamber, aiding in eliminating detonation within the cylinder. The redesigned head raised compression to 11:1 (up from 10.5:1 on the standard model) and power to 122 hp (125 for the USA version), up from 113 hp on the "F" model.

    so who knows lol
     
  12. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    [​IMG]

    From Greg Pullen's book "Honda V4", he goes on to say the VF1000R has become a collectors item because of it's limited production and gear driven cams. I wouldn't mind having one!
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2016
  13. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I thought the VF1000R motor would fit, you just couldn't get the rear valve cover off in the frame. But if this is really an 84 1000R motor, they are different from the US 85-86.
     
  14. Rollin_Again

    Rollin_Again Member

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    It's time to start thinking about that 1000cc Go-Kart project LOL !!!
     
  15. GreyVF750F

    GreyVF750F Member

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    I wouldn't trust that article to state that the R is less hp than the F over all. The R did have the most hp of all the 1000's Says Honda and other dyno reports. Honda got it right. The bike was way to heavy for racing. It was just built so they could homologate their GP bike for racing rules. It was a flashy fat street bike. I remember when they first came out and Penton Honda had one.
     
  16. GreyVF750F

    GreyVF750F Member

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    Here's an article I have for that:



    Had a bit of help on this one from a BBS member so I didn`t need to worry about the steering neck moving during construction. EddiesV65 from the BBS suggested adding a section from the junk VF1000R frame to the VF1000F frame, then cutting away the F frame on the inside to clear the motor, then box in the F frame.
    Just need to trim up the rail above the one in these pics as the front of the rear head on the left side just touches. I`ll probably transfer over all the modifications from my VF1000F to this frame/motor combination, eventually...here`s a copy of the results:
    So since I have too much time to think after tendon surgery, and I have several R motors and a couple 1000F frames, I decided to finally get to the bottom of whether a R motor will fit in a F frame. I`ve heard it can be done but the valve covers won`t come off without removing the engine, it`s a direct swap, etc...I`ve probably propagated some of these things myself without really seeing it. I do know that Tim Cameron has done it with an Australian R motor to a 750 frame(The Gimp), however, he used the original R motor with the narrower heads/camshafts and installed it in a VF750F frame with some modification. The early 1984 R motor-(not available in the US) was similar to the VF1000F motor dimension-wise, but the R was developed beyond that to incorporate wider cams, line-bored cams, and subsequent wider heads. Just want to be clear that this is a US 1985-1986 motor, and has different dimensions to the earlier non-US version. So I took a 1984 US VF1000F frame and a 1985 US VF1000R motor and here are the pics...
    **************************
    The change was from the VF1000F to the VF1000R frames. The R engine is wider to accomodate the grear driven cams.
    Interesting. My motor was hitting the frame exactly where it looks like yours is Kel, the upper left rear head at the rubber half-moon of the valve cover gasket. I could get the spacer at the right upper rear head in, but it wasn`t happy and the front lower mounts sit as in the pics. After the frame mod, the left lower front engine mount sits up against the left frame mount and it appears the only spacer will be on the right front lower mount, just like the stock F setup. We`ll see. The plan is to trim the frame rail above the one I just did to make sure there is no pressure twisting the motor in the frame, torque the rear upper and lower engine mounts since they are the same in the F and R and seem to fit without stress, check the hanger plates and spacers, check the front lower mounts and make a spacer for the right front lower mount, and finally cut the front head mounts from the junk R frame and weld them to the F frame.
    Interesting indeed. Perhaps some manufacturing differences. My rt rear upper mount has the spacer in and all tightened down. This leaves the lt rear head close but not touching the frame. A playing card would barely make it. Certainly making the extra room by cutting/welding has made life easier for you. I guess if you weld on some upper front mounts, you basically have an R frame, why not just put your F stuff on one of your R's and be done with it! :biggrin: I'm running the F thermostat so flipping the water passages was needed. It should make it easier to use the 750 mid and lower rads since I'll have no place for an upper.
    Good eye on the spacer Tom. Clearly the wrong one in there. By water passages, I was referring to the ones between the heads. not the one in the frame member. The R passages exit right towards the R thermostat housing while the F's head left. Since I'll be using the F's thermostat(on the left side) in it's stock location, I merely popped out the R's and flipped them around so they head left.Here they are in the stock R config. They're opposite now.
    [FONT=&amp]You don't have to cut and reweld the frame. It's a tight fit but very do-able. You will lose the ability to remove the rear cover but do a valve adjustment before install and you're good for a while. Thermostat shouldn't be an issue. [/FONT]



    I may have photo's not 100% sure though.
     
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