Rectifier regulator failure?

The RR is shorted internally--better not run the new stator with the old RR or you may be buying another stator...

 

So why do you want to know where the motor to frame earth is, it is not relevant to your current situation

 

I mean it is literally under the tank. You can't miss it. All the ground wires go to that one block on the frame underneath the tank.

Lift the tank and the rubber shielding and you will see it instantly.

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I am finding light corrosion on every connector I take apart. My ohm meter reads 0.1 when set at 200 ohms. When I check ground to the frame I get 0.4 ohms. It should read 0.1 Sure if I set the meter to 2000 it is 0.0 so it may be a mute point. But this leads me to believe that either that the ground to frame is loose or corroded. I have things apart so why not take the added effort to check it and clean it.

 

Just like resolving the great Anne-Marie trip electrical gremlins - for distant contributors it can be rather puzzling to see threads head off in unexpected directions, but Hey Ho I am sure it won't hurt to spend time locating and cleaning electrical earthing points. But in the absence of some other factors which we have not been alerted to, I still suspect that faults in the charging system is the real issue with your VFR.

Unlike the mechanical stuff on your VFR which was designed and made by Honda and is pretty bullet proof, the charging system was bought in. Inevitably stuff made to a budget tends to be designed to just meet the customer specs at the lowest cost to the manufacturer. Reliability beyond the warranty period of bought in stuff is of no consequence to the manufacturer as they will only bear the cost of fixing failures within the warranty, and components which fail afterwards will provide the manufacturer with windfall sales of replacement parts. Mr H is happy because failures within warranty can be charged on to the original parts supplier, and any subsequent failures will possibly provide their dealerships with a useful stream of chargeable work for their service departments, with the customer picking up the bill.

Inherently all four elements of your charging system (Battery, RR, Stator and Loom) need to be in good order, and a fault in any one component can potentially cause damage in some or all of the others. Just because you identify one faulty component, it is dangerous to assume that by simply installing a replacement, it will mean "problem solved", as it may not!

From the numbers posted above, at least one phase of the stator has died - and as you will soon discover a replacement OEM stator is not cheap. (If you are very lucky you may find a firm who can rewind your old stator). You can confirm the stator needs replacing simply by removing the stator housing - which will probably reveal some of the windings are now a crispy brown colour with that distinct smell of burnt electrical windings.

The question which you now need to investigate, is what caused the stator to die?

Was it the RR? Has the stator/rr connector fused? A dead or dying battery (a 2008 bike should be on its second or even third by now) can force the RR (and stator) to run at high output for extended periods - rather than just for a short period needed to recharge any battery drain when the bike is first fired up. So do you need a new battery? If you are not sure - get the battery tested.

Then carefully do the diode checks on the RR (the drill) before you actually hook up your new stator! If the RR is shorted internally it might burn up your new stator very quickly.

Good luck - let us know how you get on.




SkiMad

 

Rick's sells OEM style stators for a decent price. If you're going to get the original re-wound, I don't see the difference on just buying the aftermarket.

Here's the vfr800 one with free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Ricks-Motorsport-Electric-Stator-21-120/dp/B000KKBL0I

 

Hmmmmmm - you may want to do some research first as others tend to differ on this...

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/do-not-buy-rm-stators.57835/

Cheap is generally crap, hence in your shoes I would be looking to fit an OEM replacement (the original lasted a fair few years) or see if you can get the OEM rewound.

Good luck




SkiMad

 

+ 1 on buying OEM.
Price difference is not worth buying anything else.
It's not a job you want to do again any time soon.

 

Hmmm... did you actually read the thread you linked to?

Cause if you did you would have seen the creator of the thread actually posted the following:

Here is what I put on the banshee. It looks like the one he sells is a Ricks motorsports. Ricks motorsports is not the same as Ricky Stator/RM stator. From what I understand they make really good products.

So actually, I should be thanking you for posting a supportive finding to the stator I recommended. :eagerness:

 

I did indeed read that whole article and that is exactly why I suggested doing your own research!


Inherently people need to realize there is Ricks stuff and seemingly fake Ricks stuff which does not seem to be top quality. Which begs the question how the hell do you know what you are buying.

You can be pretty certain that OEM parts purchased direct from a dealer are not fakes, but they may not be cheap. As for aftermarket - if you cannot arrange to visit a store, see the product first hand, and indeed ask questions about its origin direct from the vendor, then you may be lucky or you may not...

I guess if its an unimportant 50 cent item, who cares? But for me having a reliable stator is pretty important - if you don't care, don't let me get in your way...

Perhaps I am not the only one who does not totally trust everything I see offered on the web. I have had several people contact me to tell me about large sums of money sitting in banks in Nigeria which I can have half, if I just send them some money first - just to prove I can be trusted. Hmm

Sadly when it comes to stuff being sold via the web, many buyers have no idea where stuff is really coming from, or if its a second grade factory reject or indeed if it is a totally fake product which has been deliberately branded to misuse the name of an established brand.

So thanks indeed.



SkiMad

 

I could see your point if I linked to a fradulent eBay auction, but I didn't. I posted a link to Amazon selling the Rick's Motorsports stator with the part# referenced on their site for the VFR800.

If you're concerned about it being fake, you could always buy directly from Rick's website.

 

Toss your oem rr and burnt stator in the trash.
Pick up an Oem stator from www.servicehonda.com
FH020aa or sh847 rr from www.roadstercycle.com
Install a voltmeter and maybe a vfrness too for good measure
solder the rr to stator connection
Then you should be good for a very long time

 

Here is the stator that I have pulled out. God it looks just wonderful doesn't it?

 

haha they all look like that

 

Nazzzzzdeeee!!!

 

They sometimes look like this too...

And I mean the burnt connector not blurry!

 

Yea my connector had a slight oxidization but no burning or signs of heat. I do find it interesting that all of the picture that I have seen of fail stators for the VFR is that the same area has failed.

 

it has to do with where the cooling oil is coming from

 

Yum barbecue


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So on Friday night and Saturday I got the VFR back together and ran it through a couple of heat cycles and all seems well at this time. I also installed something called an Argus Battery Bug. This is a device I had in a drawer that I used on a 1991 ST1100. These bikes were also notorious for failed alternators. The alternators were just to small for the bike.

See this YouTube on the Battery Bug. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ayya5kOMmyY

So what else did I do while waiting for parts. I did some research because I wanted to find an electrical contact cleaner that did a couple of things. One act as a cleaner to clean up all plug in type connectors and two to help lubricate and prevent further oxidation of connectors. I found a spray called DeOxIt from Caig Laboratories. So I went through all exposed connectors and gave a quick spray to help loosen them up so I could pull them apart. Got each one apart and inspected them for any damage, corrosion, burnt wires, etc. gave a short spray to each end, let the connectors dry for a few minutes but a very very small dab of dielectric grease on the female side of the connectors and plugged them back together.

I also found the ground from the battery to under the fuel tank and cleaned and reconnected. I also found a ground connection with 4 green wires with 2 eyelets connected to the frame as well. Cleaned and reconnected. The connectors on the green wires did have some light corrosion.

So why do all this one may ask? First everything was apart and it was an easy task. All exposed connectors got an inspection, cleaned and lubricated. Maybe it is just piece of mind too.

The Argus Battery Bug is now the monitor the charging system and battery. So far after 100 miles there are no apparent anomalies. Voltage seems good and battery life is good.