Electrical problem...advice needed please

Hi guys I've been reading thru the threads on r/r issues and electrical problems but I'm still not sure how to proceed.

The bike is a 1999 vfr 800fi with 67000kms. Recently upon starting the clock has been resetting and just a fraction slow to wind over when starting. I have charged the battery which has been replaced by the previous owner as has the r/r unit. I've been riding it every day for the 18 months since I've owned it and love it, my previous ride was a 2008 cbf1000 which was great but lacked soul, something the viffer has in spades!

Upon pulling off the seat, luggage rack and rear cowl I've found the plug is heavily discoloured leading to the replacement r/r unit. ?

I will be replacing the battery, wiring and plugs but what other tests do I need to do to ensure the bike is in great shape as it is my daily transport.

Thanks in advance for any input,
Cheers Ryan

 

You can cut the plug and check voltage from the stator.
Should be around 25v AC at idle and around 50v AC at 5000rpm between each yellow wire, make sure they don't touch.
You really need to get rid of that plug and solder the wires then check charging voltage if stator checks out.
Voltage from RR should be over 13v DC at idle and over 14v DC at 5000rpm.
If OK you need to replace the wiring from RR with a bigger gauge directly to the battery with a new heavy duty 30A fuse.
Also get rid of your earth block and solder them all together while you're in there.
This is the only way to make sure that electrical weak points on these bikes are fixed once and for all.

 

This is where you will need to start Post #9 is the important one and when you have sorted it out cut the connector out that goes from the stator to the rec/reg and solder and heatshrink the wires
http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39277-How-to-fix-common-regulator-Stator-failures

 

I'll just add you'll want to trim back those yellow wires from the plug until you get to fresh copper. and as OZ stated, solder


Also, that R/R is the OEM one from Honda, aka the mini panini grill. It's really old school at this point, runs super hot and the service life ain't great. There's a reason we get "My Bike Died, HELP!" posts like a few dozen times a riding season. If you want to upgrade like you say, you'll want to replace that ASAP with a mosfet based unit. And judging by the plug and time span you say you've been riding that, you're probably going to be replacing it anyway

 

I've used the big finned r/r from a R1 , chopped that plug out and soldered the wires together and used a lead from triumph to connect them together.I've fitted a vfrness and get 14.5 from idle to 9000 rpm lights on or off.If I was to get another vfr I'd definitely do this again.It isn't hard to do just practice soldering to get good flow.
Just looked on the Roadster cycles site they have everything you need, go buy now and sort this for good.

 

rr from an older Kaw ZX10 here (Shindengen FH010) , reliable, cool runner

bolted in stock location...no reason to reinvent the wheel.

During the installation, the stator connector was eliminated, the factory inline fuse (along with its wiring) replaced with another after showing signs of minor heat damage.

Added an LED voltmeter, no issues. i'm in trouble free season #6 with this setup.

 

Thanks to all those who replied. I've cut out the plug and replaced the wiring with soldered joints and heatshrink, also replaced the main fuse link and lead to battery.
Only had a short road test due to weather but it cranks faster on starting and clocks haven't reset yet.
Voltages (both ac stator output and dc rectifier output) are where they should be at idle and 5k rpm.

Cheers Ryan

 

ryan-

suggestion...long term...get a mosfet in there.