SS Brake Line Labor Cost

Anyone know what a shop would charge to install SS brake lines on a 2004 VFR non-ABS? I am not mechanically-inclined and can't do it myself.

 

Although I am mechanically inclined and have a little background with working on bikes and motors, I don't consider myself being an expert but it took me roughly a full day to do my 6 Gen. I took my time and made sure I had everything laid out and then did it methodically.

The one tough spot I had was the hard line that is under the rear Sub-frame as it is in a tight location, if I would have removed the sub-frame and all of the bits that go along with it, I think I would have had about the same amount of time to deal with it, just at doing different task.

So that being said, when I did my 5 gen, it took me a few hours less BUT the two are slightly different, as I didn't have the same issue getting to the hard line that is in the rear of the 5 gen. Both times it included flushing and at least filling the lines. For my 5 gen it also meant bleeding. For my 6 gen I just closed things up and bled them the next day.

I would like to think that the job, if done by a professional and experienced mechanic could do this in somewhere between 4-6 hours. So multiply that by whatever labor rate per hour your shop charges and that should give you a ball park.

If you were anywhere near Anaheim, CA, I'd say come on over and let's tackle it together!

 

If you have the right tools, it's actually a really easy job.

That said, if you're not comfortable then that's cool and totally understandable. You'll need to call around. Shops will vary from region to region, and even in the same city they can vary.

Maybe you have a forum member nearby with the right tools and knowledge that will do it for you for a case of beer or a bottle of rum / rye?

 

Thanks for the comments. I've changed the fluid with regularity and braking is fine for my riding style - what I'm concerned about is the OEM rubber lines that are now 12 years old. I've heard recommendations about an 8-10 year life but then I hear about 20-year-old, 100,000-mile bikes with original lines with no problems.

OOTV, I am in a "C" state but unfortunately it is Connecticut. Thanks for the offer!

 

The state I am in is that there are other questions that only a shop can answer. What would be a good start is to know if the lines you want to change out are front. rear or both and if you have them.

A shop can be many things from a trained mechanic who operates out of a garage (heated of course, in your state) , a dealership that works on many brands of bikes (except Harleys..Thankee Jesus) or a Honda dealership.

The latter two might expect to supply the lines and mark them up or tell you that what you have is crap and they know that what you have is going to fail.

Otherwise it's easy and all you will need is a lift, some pesos invested in tools, new rebuild kits for your master and slave cylinders, and a bigass jug of brake fluid.

 

Thanks for the advice. I have a 2012 VFR 1200 with ABS , anyone know how much more complicated things are on a linked braking system? Best regards, Scott

THEOLDESCOTSMAN

 

Awe. I'm surprise Mr. Duccman hasn't chimed in, he just had this done.

 

My 2 cents for those looking for a 'performance' improvement, not replacing lines due to age:

Modern rubber lines are actually quite nice and Honda is known to use the higher quality lines (among other things, which is why Honda typically has the highest MSRP among the competition.) Stainless steel really only offers a benefit of resisting expansion during heating (heating which only occurs under extreme recurring braking, like on a race track) and having a limited amount of total expansion, which tends to transfer the hydraulic force to the brake calipers more efficiently which results in a more harsh/quick lever feel in relation to braking.

These things are so minor that even for a track bike the value is somewhat dubious; for a street ridden motorcycle, the value of money and time versus result is far too poor to recommend. The value gets much better if OEM lines that are old or leaking are being replaced, since the cost of new rubber lines approaches the cost of SS lines anyway - though keep in mind, there is a certain logic to building in a little extra give to the braking system (so ham fisted operation doesn't result so easily in tire slides.)

I say this after my own experience with bikes on and off the track, and with and without stainless lines. I would say that more aggressive brake pads and fresh brake fluid have the biggest impact on braking feel.

 

R-U-Sure?

I'd agree w/FightingChance's post in that there is not a lot of performance benefit from the upgrade.
I have a 1985 Honda Interceptor 750, a 77' Suzuki GT750, an 85' Suzuki GSX-R750, a 1990 Yamaha DT200R, all with original brake lines. They all work well. I still trust them as well. That is not to say that they won't disintegrate before my eyes tonight. Keep an eye on them, watch for leaks or cracks, etc. I've heard the 8-10 year spiel as well, but do not believe it. Some people change their expensive motorcycle synthetic oil at 3000 k.m.'s too. O.K., but not neccesary. Like I've heard, nobody's bike fails due to clean oil!(A split open filter, maybe) If you've got a few extra bucks kicking around, go for it, there is a lot worse ways to spend money on a bike than replacing brake lines.But if not, you may get some more time out of them. (Don't let them talk you into neon lights or flush mounted signals!) I'd guess that labor will be no more than two hours, to do front and back brake lines, plus bleeding.

 

Thank you, that is helpful. I do like the clean look of stainless lines. It all depends on the quote I get. best regards, Scott

 

Thank you, most helpful, Scott

 

If I buy a bike that doesn't have SS lines up front, the bike gets SS front lines. I like the feel, and I like the look.

I can definitely tell that the Interceptor has rubber lines. They feel like rubber. Yuck. I'd swap em out, but I don't know how I'd ever get that complicated mess, bled. Gen 5. If someone wants to come to Jasper Indiana, to help bleed them, I'd give it serious consideration.

 

Technically if you're just doing the front lines, you're probably not going to have to deal with LBS. The fronts are and independent system, it's actually the secondary master cylinder that links the back brakes to the front. That being said, the full 5 gen LBS system is not that hard to bleed if you have someone to help you. Just offer them the beers after you're done!