2002 vtec forks

Discussion in '6th Generation 2002-2013' started by Marcegie, Jun 29, 2016.

  1. Marcegie

    Marcegie New Member

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    Would like to join the party but I'm in Scotland which causes certain transportation problems
     
  2. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    I'm not far from HB and have a decent set of tools and a garage. Are you looking to do the fork leg swap and de-link or a rebuild of the forks with better components. Note that the 6 gen (VTEC) has larger diameter forks than your 5 gen (43mm vs. 41mm) so if you're going with the F4i forks, you'll need the 6 Gen triples. CandyRed can correct me if I'm wrong, but the F4i work with the 6 gen triples.

    Also, if de-linking the brakes you'll have to modify the rear brake as well. You'll need to "close the loop" on the second banjo bolt that ties the line that comes from the SMC/proportional valve. Usually this can be done with a short brake line and some like to change out the rear master cylinder as well.

    Either way, I'm always up for wrenching on bikes.
     
  3. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    For the 5th gen the simplest path to adjustable front forks and decent brakes is to use VTR1000F forks, and then you can add your choice of CBR600F4 or similar calipers (CBR929, 954 etc). You'll need to make up adapter plates to mount the 5th gen front mudguard. There's a double banjo bolt in the linked system that you can re-use to join both standard hoses at the rear master, but you need a larger diameter rear master off say a CBR600F4 or similar, otherwise you'll end up very lock-prone at the back.

    [​IMG]

    The 43mm forks off the CBR600F4, plus VTEC triples, would be better still as they will be stiffer and have external compression adjustment, and a stock CBR600F mudguard would fit right in.

    You'll still be up for decent springs, and preferably some valve body and shim changes to get the best out of any set of replacement forks.
     

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  4. FightingChance

    FightingChance New Member

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    Oh I would tear the entire front off - I don't have plastics, so there's no consideration for room there. 929, 954 front ends seem good, if not just some 1000RR front. I'll get the top triple drilled so I can mount bars. I'll do the PAIR tear out, remove the flapper, etc. all at the same time. Don't plan for this soon, as the front still works 'ok' for now, but it's definitely coming. If there's anything I can help you with, don't hesitate to ask.
     
  5. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    I thought he said that he had a 2002 sixth gen.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
     
  6. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    The OP did, fightingchance has a 5 gen.
     
  7. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    hmm

    So on my return from the Isle of Man trip my 6th Gen has a leak at the left fork seal.

    With the bike now 10 years old I guess the question is - do I just change out the defective seal or do more whilst the bike is in bits?

    Maybe change the fork oil in both legs? Maybe replace both fork springs? Maybe find someone (preferably this side of the pond) willing to completely refresh the forks or possibly uprate them?

    Suggestions welcome..



    SkiMad
     
  8. Lint

    Lint Member

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    If I decide to keep my 5th Gen long term, I'll go this route. The newer, higher end, the better. But for me, it's all about the best brakes possible.
     
  9. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    If you are changing the fork seal in one leg, replacing the oil is mandatory.

    The bushings are wear items and pretty cheap, and if you are doing seals, these are sitting out in the open begging to be renewed. You are also most of the way to disassembling to replace steering head bearings, if yours are notchy.

    After that...depends how you feel about the stock suspension. I can't stop fiddling with mine (just working up a set of CBR600F4 forks to go in my 5th gen) but that may be just me. If you get weight-specific springs (I use 0.90 kg/mm) you would probably want to change the compression valve and shims, and re-shim the rebound valve. Jamie Daugherty can fit you up with these parts for a DIY upgrade, and no doubt there will be local suspension gurus (the UK VTR forum guys refer to Roger Ditchfield) who could do the same for you locally.

    Take a close look at the fork stanchion on the leaking leg, seals usually don't fail for no reason, and that reason is often a sharp-edged dent caused by a rock. If you find that, gently file away any high spots so that the new seal doesn't get cut.
     
  10. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    Although I have had both of my VFRs suspensions update/upgraded, I had no real complaints about the stock setup, that is until I updated them. Basically, you don't know, what you don't know! If you've never experienced a better performing bike, particularly one that is the same as your own, you wouldn't even think there is an issue with yours. However once you do improve your bike, you usually wonder why you waited so long! However, if budgets are an issue, the minimum I would suggest is going with at least a spring change and refreshing of the oil.

    As Cadbury64 suggested, even just getting the valves, shims and springs from Jamie would be a good option. That's what I did with my 6 Gen forks. Since this is my commuter, I didn't want to send my forks to have them rebuilt and have to wait for them to go across the country and back with the added time for the actual work to be performed. So I had JD send me the springs, valves and shim stack (which were in the order they needed to be installed) and I did the work myself. It took a little more time for me as this was the first time I had worked on a fork of this type, but it wasn't difficult to do.
     
  11. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    I did it on my 5th gen - jeez going on 10 years ago, click 2nd link below. - The article to me now sounds like some yayhoo asshole, but if you cut through it, it shows the basics. The photos are still fairly good.
    - Get a brake hose loop for the rear caliper.
    - Replace the rear master cylinder with a 14mm - RC51, F4i and VTR1000 are all 14mm and will drop in.
    - Use 1 stock brake line from the linked brake set for the rear. Its free, why not?
    - Be on the look out for a set of F4i forks,
    - Also F4i/RC51/954 brake calipers and master cylinders to use for the front. (I have RC51s)
    - Figuring the mount for the reservoir will take a little creativity.
    - And yet the goofy part will be figuring out the brake lines.
    - Then also, you will need a F4i mudgard.

    - Use stock wheels, spacers, rotors, triple trees, and clip-ons.
    - CandyRed mentioned something about the subframe to remove proportioning valve specific to 6th gens.
    - 5th gens its easy to get at on the right side of the bike by the battery.

    That in a nutshell is the short list of stuff it would take to get it done.
    Get a friend to help if you are a rookie wrencher guy.

    Best of luck and beers to you....


    btw - Tasty bit for geeks - it is a 6 1/2 pound drop off the bike - 4 1/2 pounds off the front forks to do this job.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2016
  12. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I'm working towards fitting 43mm 600F4 forks to my 5th gen and have nearly all the parts to hand. I have already de-linked the brakes, and fitted VTR1000F fork lowers with a mix of DMr and Racetech innards, so moving to the bigger forks is overkill, but it is winter here with limited riding time, so what was I meant to do?

    I acquired some 6th clip-ons for $10, and that started the ball rolling. I already have 600F4i calipers and CBR600RR 03 master, which looks identical to the VFR master but (IMO) the larger master piston gives better brake feel than the 600F4 master. I bought some lightly bent 600F4 forks and had these locally straightened, and just acquired some 6th gen triples.

    I did a trial fit and the 5th gen mudguard bottom mount aligns perfectly, just need to fabricate brackets for the mount behind the leg (will be riveting some alloy plates to the 5th gen guard). Just waiting on a new set of tapered head bearings (although I only want the lower inner race).

    I'm planning on re-using the 0.90 kg/mm springs from the 41mm fork in the 43mm fork, but will keep an eye on any wear issues, and maybe will spring (!) for some new ones at some point. All the damper parts will be a direct swap over.

    IMO you don't need to fabricate/buy any brake line parts for the back end when you de-link. Take the long banjo bolt from the delay valve under the seat, and connect both existing lines to the new master. The line that used to connect the rear caliper to the linked system fits very nicely, and the setup works perfectly.
     
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