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1994 vfr 750 neutral switch

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by dougdowney, Feb 28, 2015.

  1. Knight

    Knight New Member

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  2. faran

    faran New Member

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    'Knight' I am also suspecting this to be a diode. My biggest fear is removal of that upper fairing to get onto it. I know exactly where this diode is located, right below radiator cap area. Can diode be tested/removed while upper fairing is still there?
     


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  3. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    It's definitely a bad diode, so replace it and all the problems will go bye-bye. :witless:
     


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  4. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I agree with this!
     


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  5. faran

    faran New Member

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    Thanks SM. Where do you suggest I should buy the diode from? Cheapest is better ;)
     


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  6. faran

    faran New Member

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    Btw, is there anything else I need to clean, side stand or anything else? Before I order the diode?

    Also, is this diode a plug n play kind?

    Thanks everyone :)
     


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  7. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I think you need this part:

    http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-31700-196-000.html

    It was positively identified as the clutch diode for the ST1100 that I own, and is used in the same location on your VFR. If you go to this link: http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=7420.0 they tell how to test the existing diode function. Maybe do that before you order the new part?

    I would certainly make sure that the sidestand switch is also properly functioning using a multimeter.
     


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  8. faran

    faran New Member

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    How can I test the side stand switch? Any tips for it? Is rectifier same as that diode, because existing one seems a bit different than the link.

    Thanks for the help.

    P.S: for me, neutral light comes in once I pull in the clutch, so kinda opposite to that of the link posted above.
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2016


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  9. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     

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  10. faran

    faran New Member

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    Thanks so much. I do have a manual, but don't want to break anything so asking in detail.

    Is clutch switch connector visible and can be easily pulled out? Also, do I have to remove the side stand or can it be tested while it's still on?

    By continuity means, infinite resistance, correct or no?
     


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  11. faran

    faran New Member

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    Anyone has any input? Also, are there any tricks or DIY for removing right upper fairing to access the diode?

    Thanks guys.
     


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  12. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I don't have a 4th gen so can't advise on fairing removal, but the owner's manual is a good place to look for a how-to.

    The clutch switch is screwed on to the underside of the lever perch, and has two small electrical terminals under rubber boots, which can be slid off for a test. May be easier to unbolt the clutch master cylinder for access.

    Regarding the sidestand, that will normally have a 2P connector where it joins to the main harness, so just follow the wire from the switch to the connector. I would say that if your bike has a sidestand indicator light, that if this goes on/off as the stand is moved down/up, then the switch is probably fine.
     


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  13. faran

    faran New Member

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    Thanks so much. So side stand indicator light goes on and off with the movement of stand. I cleaned those contacts for clutch switch(after removing level assembly) and they all seem to be functional and working.

    I am also leaning towards the diode and for that I have to remove the fairing. Can I use this cheap option?

    OEM diode pack can be replaced using general purpose diodes available at Radio Shack or any other electronic component source.

    Radio Shack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062578

    1N5402 or # 276-1143

    3 amp, 200 v PIV

    $1.69 each.

    ~~~

    Need two diodes ( 1N5402 )


    and some insulated crimp terminals ( 3 x red ).


    Twist together the cathodes ( banded end ) and crimp on an insulated terminal.

    Crimp insulated terminals to each of the remain anodes ( Un-banned end )

    Looking at wiring diagram below:


    The end with the twisted leads into a single insulated terminal connect to the GREEN wire.

    The remaining diode ends connect to the GREEN\RED wire and the other wire.

     


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  14. Allyance

    Allyance Member

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    Sorry to say Radio Shack is out of business!
     


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  15. Knight

    Knight New Member

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    Bankruptcy, store closures, reorganization, and it lives on. Your store may be gone though :(
     


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  16. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    Try any electronics store, I got a pack of 5 for 50 cents recently, soldered it in and job done
     


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  17. faran

    faran New Member

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    Yeah, I can get it on ebay for $1 for a pack of 10!

    Did you you from ebay too? Think, I am going to replace with these universal diodes!

    Are there any tricks for removing this right front fairing?
     


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  18. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    Clutch switch is held on by one Phillips screw, it's on the lever, you can do a resistance test on it. I changed my nuetral switch along with the clutch switch. Problem solved, the nuetral plunger looked rounded off a little compared to new one.
     


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  19. faran

    faran New Member

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    Did you have the exact same problem? When you pull in clutch, neutral light would come on? I was leaning towards diodes, bike has 17.5K miles, should I replaces both switches too?
     


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  20. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    My problem was that the bike wouldn't start. I touched the lever one day it started, i got a flickering nuetral light. I dont have a centre stand. It was a while ago, but i replaced those two items and all is cured. I swapped out the clutch diode prior tty o this repair and still hsd same symptoms. Hope this helps
     


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    #40
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