Changed clutch plates and springs but still slips.

I recently had my clutch start to slip at high revs. So before buying a new clutch kit I sucked out most of the fluid from my reservoir with my mighty vac brake bleeder. Then cleaned out every part inside I could. Even pulled out the return shield to make sure it wasn't plugged. Took the slave cylinder off and inspected that for leaks or wear. Everything looks good. Pull the shift rod out and that still had good lubrication on it but I cleaned it and reapplied more grease per the manual. After that I put new fluid in and bled the system down and then topped off. Took my cover off the clutch basket. Pulled the plates out. Checked the friction plates for thickness and they are like new. Same with the steel plates. No wear or heat marks or warping. Checked the springs for overall thickness and those are still in spec. Basket itself looks good also minus some minor wear from the springs and the plates. Nothing that would have to be changed. So I put everything back together and fill up the oil with lucas motorcycle oil 10w40. Took it down the road and it still slipped. So I bought EBC friction plates and Barnett clutch springs. Put them in tonight along with new oil and filter. Let it warm up to temp and took it down the road and to my dismay it actually slipped worse. What the heck am I missing here? And yes I did put them back in the way they came out. Thanks for any input. Just getting frustrated.

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Sorry it's a 03 vfr800

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Are you sure the slave cylinder piston is going all the way back in?

 

What type of oil are you using?

 

I was wondering if that isn't going back all the way like it should. Wants to creep out. I've bled and bled the damn thing. I'll put some pics of it up later.

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I have always used lucas motorcycle oil 10w40 in this bike and my 92 vfr 750 with no problems.

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Bleeding is not the problem.
When the system is old, and maintenance hasn't been the best, lots of crud will build up inside the slave cylinder, clutch or brakes.
This build up will not shift, and it will not compress, so your piston will not go back where it should.
I'm not saying this is your problem, but it needs checking to make sure.
There is not much else that will cause your simptoms.

 

Can the slave cylinder be taken apart and cleaned? Thank you for the input.

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One way to test if it is the slave cylinder is to back the bolts holding the cylinder on and see if there is pressure on the rod, if there is this proves as you tighten it up it is starting to push the clutch plates apart. Cylinder can be pulled apart and cleaned but you should put a kit in it, because otherwise it will probably start leaking

 

Ok will try

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Took apart the master and slave cylinders both looked in good shape put them back together without any issue. Did not put replacement kits in either. Neither leaked. Took the cover back off the clutch and watched as I pull the clutch lever. Had very good movement of the assemble and you could see everything engage when clutch lever was released.

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I did however notice that in my honda manual it shows there is 9 friction plates and 8 steel plates. When I took everything apart and ordered new friction plates there was only 8 and only 7 steel plates in the bike. Am I missing something or does anyone else have a count on there bike?

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If you don't have the correct number of plates then this would preload the pushrod and start to lift the pressure plate. Is this bike new to you, because if this is the problem then it would have always slipped

 

Did you use heavy springs? & did you replace the bolts they will stretch over time

 

First post says he fitted new Barnett springs

 

Still going to put new replacement parts on master and slave cylinders then might do the bolts that hold the clutch springs

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Clean out the tiny return port in the clutch master cylinder.

 

All of that is simple to check, if the return hole is blocked and this is unlikely on a clutch because the clutch springs are more than capable off pushing anything back through the return hole. If it is holding pressure you can check this by slowly backing the studs out to see if there is pressure still on the rod Brakes are a different kettle of fish because they only rely on the "O" ring to return the fluid back through the return hole

 

This picture is not correct.
The late 5th gens (00, 01) and 6th gens don't have a judder spring and spring plate (spring seat and friction spring).
The right number is 8 friction disks and 7 steel plates, and that is it.
This picture you have posted appears in many manuals and web pages, but its a mistake.

I suggest next time you pull it appart, take some pictures on how it is assembled so we can look. Both assembled and apart.