FI light sputter high revs

pictures?

 

Can someone explain the reasoning behind this procedure? Is it done because this part (is this a fuse block?) is expensive? Or because this part has the risk of corrosion again? Or the part is expensive to replace? Is there any concern about adding solder joints to bikes that generate significant vibration?

 

Of the ECM, or checking the throttle sensor?

No pics. ECM is under plastic flap at the rear of the bike under seat latch cross member.

Tp sensor is on right hand side of throttle body. You'll need to prop up tank and loosen air box to get to it.

 

This orange ground block is a collecting point for a dozen or so ground leads from numerous sensors and parts on the bike. It's a simple non sealed spade terminal style connector. Even though it's wrapped up in electrical tape, still a chance for moisture to get in and build up oxidation. Increasing resistance which leads to a bad ground.

If your soldering back there rattles apart you've probably thrown a conrod.

 

Not to bash on your solder skills, but that looks like a cold joint. Tell tale sign is solder globbed up like that. You want to heat up the wires enough that the strands suck up the solder like a sponge. Any excess should fall off. Not sure what iron you used but one of those automotive style gun shaped ones should make quick work of that.

 

that needs to be redone, higher wattage gun is needed to complete it satisfactory

 

Sorry haven't updated in a while! Sputtering was sorted with a new fuel filter (bike is also smoother at higher rpm now)

FI light turned out to be a loose vacum hose to the MAP sensor.

Removed DFO. and trashed it (can't see why I installed it in the first place now that the bike runs so well again!)

 

Parallel Problems - 5th Gen - Flaky FI Light and a series of fuel system issues

Wow, great post, great thread and this site is an excellent resource!

Here's my story (saga?) re. my 2000 VFR, a few pictures and extended gratitude for the shared experiences and wisdom.

Starting fall 2015, I was getting the erratic FI light. You know, fade on, fade off, went in time with my turn signals some time, sometimes went on/off with high beams, etc. I did not have any problems and could not get the ECU to dump a code following the manual procedures. Spring 2016, FI light was still doing it's thing as I prepared for the 2016 STAR (MSTA) ride in Vermont. I checked every fuel system and console connector for burns and/or corrosion. I still had no issues and decided the FI light was a harmless gremlin. [I swear I searched these forums but did NOT find the thread with tinkerinWstuff claiming the flaky FI Light is "guaranteed" to be a ground block issue...]

We trailered out to Vermont, unloaded and went for a shakedown ride and the bike would not restart after refueling about 2 hours out of base, bike was pretty hot due to small town traffic. After bike cooled, it did restart but was not running well...I put it back on the trailer and was fortunate to rent another bike...a KLR 650...on knobbies! (I learned a ton keeping up with the sport touring riders on this bike...it was a learning experience that actually improved my riding a lot in unexpected ways!)

When I got my VFR home, I somehow decided this was a fueling issue and settled on changing the fuel filter as s first step. Upon flopping the tank I was surprised to find only 5 studs holding the fuel pump assembly (eek!) and when I pulled out the assembly, it was mostly disintegrated (came out in > 5 pieces) and the tank was FULL of rust. Joy! So, had the broken stud replaced by a local welding shop (Ace Columbus rocks), then spent a couple of weekends cleaning the loose rust, chemically converting the remaining surface rust with oxalic acid and installing a whole new fuel pump assembly.

The bike would start and run, but still had the FI light and now bike would stall sporadically after a couple of blocks...

I threw a set of plugs at it, but no improvement.

A fellow 5th gen rider swore I needed to get the injectors cleaned, OK, PITA, but I was getting desperate. I pulled the tank, upper airbox (wow, I never dug in here, my air filter was pretty cruddy, but not blocked), lower airbox (wow, is there a thread on pulling and reinstalling the lower airbox? I could not find one and this was a real bear! I had labeled everything, but wow, tight quarters and routing is not obvious either...), throttle body (does everyone need an overhead hoist to pull it off the isolator/sleeves?) and finally the injectors. Sent them off to Southbay in NY, who found some clogging, but fixed them right up:


http://vfrworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38308&d=1471826230
Throttle body out, labels on all the vacuum lines and the coolant lines to the wax motor on the auto-choke


http://vfrworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38302&d=1471826224
Before and after cleaning flow report from SouthBay Fuel Injector service (~$85 in my case)

While I was waiting on the injectors to get back from New York, I found tinkerinWstuff's post and decided to take a look at my ground block:


http://vfrworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38305&d=1471826226
Ground Block next to the solid state R&R I put in based on advice in another thread on VFRWorld...did this when I got this bike.


http://vfrworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38301&d=1471826223
Yep, tell tale burn marks on ground block! (Right again tinkerinWstuff!)


http://vfrworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38303&d=1471826225
All pins pushed out of ground block (wires are short so wanted to maximize wire length before I clip)


http://vfrworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38309&d=1471826230
Used masking tape to hold wires in tight formation for soldering.


http://vfrworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38310&d=1471826231
Another view...


http://vfrworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38306&d=1471826227
First pass complete, but found masking tape hard to remove and it held heat in so it melted some of the insulation on interior wires.


http://vfrworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38307&d=1471826228
On the second pass I added a dedicated ground attachment which I put on one of the R&R bolts. Note that this time I used aluminum tape which did an excellent job of dissipating the heat from soldering.

Final outcome seems very positive. My bike starts runs great again, NO FI LIGHT! :star: All back together and feeling more confident with each mile!

It's great to have my bike back again!