Valve adjustment question (Regarding the manual's procedure)

Your #1 plug is pointing to the #1 injector as being the issue I'd say.

 

Between Friday and today I had the opportunity to work on the bike some more. I tore it back down again and re-checked the timing. Its perfect and exactly as the manual states, timed on the compression stroke.

Today I buttoned it up and re-installed the PAIR system for shits and giggles (Reeds and all that good stuff stuffed back in, piping and plug connects to harness), it leaks the same amount if not more fuel from the exhaust now. In fact, I started with 2/3 a gallon in the tank and I'm now empty from all this BS.

One thing I want to add. The bike runs perfectly, but when the engine is cold as soon as I bump the starter there is a sound like a knock for 1/2 a second. Thats the only strange noise it makes, once again only when its cold.

I suppose its time to start testing the fuel system, but before that- I still haven't checked to see if the ECM has any codes stored in it. Time to figure out how to do that next.

 

I had a chance to play with it some more, here's what I did:

-Shorted service connector to check for FI codes= None

-Pulled all the plugs to check spark= Good spark (All plugs covered in gas now)

-Disconnected the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator= Does not leak a drop with the key on and bike in RUN

Bike runs worse with the PAIR system back on. It idles super high at 2500rpm as if it has a vacuum leak, noticeably more gas coming out of the exhaust. Turning the idle screw does nothing but I'd assume idle adjustment has no effect on cold idle

When it stops raining and I have more time, I'm going to remove the airbox and trace each vacuum line. Maybe one is kinked somewhere? Otherwise I don't know how to proceed yet :kaboom::yell:

 

You need to put the year of your bike in your profile.

Idle screw: The current position of the starter valves would override the idle screw.

*2000+ bike has wax idle unit. remove, completely clean it.

*Move the starter valves by hand. Do they operate smoothly or are they sticking?

*Adjusting the valves has modified the vacuum per cylinder. That means you now must tune the starter valves.

*Make sure your throttle cable is adjusted well and is not currently kinked. Check that the butterflies close completely and are not stuck open.

*Make sure the correct wiring goes to the correct injectors.