'New' to me 1996 VFR 750 and Lots of Questions

You seem to have acquired an extremely rare time-traveling VFR, even more amazing you pulled it off at less than 88 MPH!

 

One guess, and it's not good. I did say there was a chance this would work.

I think you're looking at a harsher reality at this point, and would recommend you find a local expert.

 

Opps, yes you did start a new thread Nice. That said I left off throwing you a bone. I have a complete tool set for the 4th gen VFR, if interested PM me. all though like BB has mentioned there are other means to adjusting the chain. After re reading all this, whoa, you have some great advice that should have at the least made the steering line up a bit better, but I read not so. So now it's time to go to the next level I'm afraid, you will need to pull those tubes out. if they didn't even straighten out a little, either something is still to tight and needs loosened up more, or there's something more serious at play here. A second look there shows me this isn't a little tweak. BTW they do move a bit but you've said they haven't Time for a bigger pry bar I won't so much use a hammer well maybe a dead blow type, that and you'll need another set of eyes and hands, way easy to tip the bike over. now as far as the temp issue goes IMO I'd go Honda. that's not one of those things to go cheap on it's a bad enough job, but it's your bike. your bike but????? that idle thing is way off have you tried to adjut it on the carbs yet? yea the shifting won't like that rpm at the beginning.

 

PM sent.

Let's start from square one regarding about straightening out those handle bars.

In terms of order and sequence all bolts are finger tight now:

1- I loosened up 2 pinch bolt on top triple tree for forks

2- Loosened up 2 bolts for middle fork holder

3 Loosened up main axle bolt

4-Loosened up 2 pinch bolts for axle, one on each side

5- Loosened up a bolt, in the middle of handle bar/steering right below ignition switch and in front of gas tank


Is it the right sequence or I am missing something?

Does anyone has the part number for thermostat, please?

 

^ yep, the other thing here is you need to have some sort of a tire chalk to hold it in place, as you hang on to the grips. then of coarse giving a hank one way then the other, kinda a wiggle effect, in that you should hear some stress relive giving way, hopefully. but those photos I saw sorry to say it's more than that. Heres a nice simple video showing the move, even though it's a track bike it's the same thing, and that simple. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFV7ZJrORWw

 

Yeah apparently you missed post #22.

I will add AGAIN, IF things don't fall into place simply by loosening all bolts, WITHOUT USING ANY FORCE then your forks are toast.

Find a local expert, this is beyond what can be reasonably expected for help on a forum.

 

Thanks RW, surely will do.

Now another question, how can I lift the tank to clean or replace air filter? I have replaced the main pivot bolt present at the end of tank but tank isn't budging?

Some of the fairings are damaged and I am planning to fix and then paint them. Is it worth it in all of your experts opinion or no?

 

yes, you undo pull out the long bolt, then the tank pulls back but not much, not up, then I slide a block of wood to hold the tank up a bit and get my size 12 hands in there to turn the tank off, from that then lift it up and back a bit more to get the lines off. just be careful in keeping an eye on the base little rubber holders there on the upper lower part of the tank, they have a way of disappearing.

 

Great, thanks for your advice and heads up. Will do some work this coming week and report back.

 

Gas tank is almost full and it feels like a fight with a bear moving it.

Removed that bolt on the end of tank, turned petcock off, removed two hoses from gas tank on throttle side, but still that beast isn't budging. Is there any other bolt too?

Although R/R is an updated one, but I still am planning to add multiple grounds. Question in the rear tail light/turn signal wiring area. There are 'Green and Green and Yellow wires, which ones are ground? I assume solid green is a ground, is that right?

 

Anyone with any advice about wire colors and adding grounds?

Also, today I was able to remove the tank completely, it has K&N filter. Should I just clean and put it back? Are K&N filter has universal cleaner?

 

Yep K-N has a cleaner and re oil kit. There's a lot of debate about the KN vs, what ever. I run a K-N with good results, but now hear Piper cross is a step above, but yea I'd just get the kit and clean it. most auto parts store that are worth their weight should have em in stock.

 

Thanks RVFR, just looked up I can clean using home based products, just because I am a cheap bastard!

BTW, any advice about grounding wires for R/R and color of wires?

 

Regarding about Spark plugs, should I replace them with nickel ones or Iridium or anything else?

Cr9Eh9 is a stock plug, any advice? Thanks guys

 

Ground wires on the norm are green and go to frame and engine block, on the routing, this one you are on your own. Stock plugs ND or NGK work just fine IMO.

 

Thanks so much, I am doing a thorough tune up as well as a check up on it. After plugs, next is probably fork oil change. Will keep you posted. Is fork oil needed since it only has 17,500 miles?

 

LOL fork oil on yours is at your discretion, you best get that straighten out before you go messing with the internals. Know also you need to pull the forks to drain the Oil, you tip them upside down to get it out.

 

I have almost straightened it out. It's off by say 1mm, which I shall be able to fix soon! I found out a few things which were not aligned or were a problem.

SM, question for you regarding about thermostat. I was able to find out part number 19300-ML7-003, they range from $30-$45. What is the part number for honda civic t-stat which is an exact replacement?

Thanks

 

By any chance do you know part numbers for ND? I have for NGK, wanted to look at ND too

 

Sorry i don't know offhand. I'll look for the info.