stator ?s

Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by volmann, Mar 18, 2016.

  1. volmann

    volmann New Member

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    I have a volt meter and only have 11.5 volts at battery and idle...it does not go up with rpm

    The 3 yellow wires are hot when bike is running

    How do i know if its stator or rectifier?

    How do i check volt out put from stator
     


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  2. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    Doing the "Drill" will tell you all you need to know. Do you still have the connector between the stator and rec/reg fitted, if so get rid of it, but the damage may already be done so you need to do the drill to establish what is wrong
     


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  3. volmann

    volmann New Member

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    The connector is gone the 3 yellow wires are hard wired

    It was charging fine just went out all of a sudden
     


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  4. volmann

    volmann New Member

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    Can i ck volts coming ot of stator at the 3 wires
     


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  5. volmann

    volmann New Member

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    One of the yellow wires plug into rectifier gets hot with in 20 seconds of running u cant even hold it its so hot
     


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  6. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    Something is wrong, if it is getting that hot, I'll see if I can find the drill so you can test it properly
     


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  7. volmann

    volmann New Member

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    Like i said was charging fine yesterday

    And when i first took off today..it has a volt meter installed and was at 13.8...then i noticed while riding it was only at 11.5

    So i rode back home...i didnt smell anything..it just went to 11.5 all at once
     


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  8. NormK

    NormK New Member

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  9. volmann

    volmann New Member

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    If the stator was dead and not putting out volts the yellow wires would not get hot...right
     


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  10. V4toTour

    V4toTour New Member

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    You need to check the AC output of the stator. This is done by revving above 3K. You should see 50-80VAC (climbs to a point as revs increase) Test all 3 yellow wires by doing a combination of two at a time. So... wires A+B, A+C, B+C (to your meter leads obviously, DON'T touch yellow wires together). If the voltage is like 20V at 4K, it's toast. Preferably you will do this test with a charged battery and the stator disconnected from the voltage regulator. Since you said the wires are getting hot, I'd cut it free of the R/R and strip back the insulation to check the copper anyway.

    If your stator output is good, then by default the problem is the R/R.
     


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  11. TOE CUTTER

    TOE CUTTER Mullet Man

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    You have the what is universally recognized as the worst of the worst R/R's on your bike. Just beyond belief Honda thought it was a viable option to install such hunk of shit on anything. That being said, no insult meant, I would and have swapped oot the R/R for a later model R/R. Rather fond of the CBR F4 R/R as it is very common, cheap (aboot $60-$80) and found easily at a local wrecker. It does require a wee bit of a mod to the fins to fit under the cowl in the rear but have not had an issue with any bikes I have done this to. Toss the stator at the same time and you should be good for a very long time.
     


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  12. V4toTour

    V4toTour New Member

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    I'd add he wants to look for a MOSFET style one as they run cooler than the old basic shunt ones.. Either from roadster cycle, http://www.roadstercycle.com/. The Rick's mosfet "hot shot" I installed on my 99 has about 25K on it.
     


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  13. volmann

    volmann New Member

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    Just unplug the yellow wires from the r/r? Or unhook them where the connector was ?
     


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  14. V4toTour

    V4toTour New Member

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    How did you "hardwire" the yellow wires from the stator to the yellow wires from the R/R? If you soldered them, just undo the joint there.

    edit: oh, I see your R/R still has a plug insert. You could just unplug it there. Pins might be burnt, so worth a check.
     


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  15. volmann

    volmann New Member

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    No plug...all wires plug to r/r separate
     


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  16. bigbadbass

    bigbadbass New Member

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    so...unplug your 3 yellows from stator output and test as previously posted, A to B, B to C. C to A. using the AC scale on your chosen meter.

    Next..to test the output of your regulator...plug your yellows back in, then remove your output wires (+ and - ) to test direct ............using the DC scale on your meter, eliminating all wiring and connectors from the equation.

    No output at stator OR no output on regulator....(used correctly) the meter does not lie.
     


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  17. volmann

    volmann New Member

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    So just touch black prong to one and the red to another?
     

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  18. volmann

    volmann New Member

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    When i touch red prong to one yellow wire and the black prong to another with bike running . .i get no volt reading on the meter
     


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  19. volmann

    volmann New Member

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    When these yellow wires are touched...one touched with black prong and one with red prong bike running i get zero volt reading
     

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  20. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    "When i touch red prong to one yellow wire and the black prong to another with bike running . .i get no volt reading on the meter"

    Have you selected the correct settings on your multi-meter? -You should be checking for AC volts not DC and have the range set for something like 100+ volts AC.
    The key stator tests are in that thread mentioned above. (give each wire a letter A,B,C) If the stator is working OK you should see similar AC output on all threes phases (AB, BC, CA) looking for 20+ volts at idle rising to 60+ at 5,000rpm

    Possibly wrong - if your stator has got an internal short then those wires could be taking power from the battery and turning it into heat!

    Oh hell - Its that time of year again! From now until end November this forum will be stuffed with posts from VFR owners with dead or dying charging systems on VFRs. That is why Rubo spent time to create that thread ages back and why over many years others have augmented it to try and help people figure out what is OK and what is wrong in their charging system.

    The key point is all 4 elements (battery, loom, RR and stator) need to be in good order and a fault in any one can damage one or more of the others.

    There are no short cuts - and don't guess - just carefully read that thread especially #9. If you wade through subsequent posts in that thread you will find others have pretty much covered your subsequent questions - including helping a complete novice get to grips with a mutlimeter and flagging up what possible replacement parts are best and what aftermarket stuff is crap!

    Take your time. Do the drill - if you need help interpreting the results post up the numbers here and we will try and help.

    Good luck let us know how you get on.



    SkiMad
     


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