Valve job. Step by step

I am not much of comprehending the shop manual, I have too many questions. Does anyone have an idiots version for checking and adjusting valves on a 86 vf 500? Preferably a basic video. I am pretty mechanically inclined so I think I can figure it out with some visual support or a dumb down version or some really good pics
Thanks

 

Assuming these are the same or similar bikes...This first page has a url to a "write-up" but at work I cannot access it so you can validate it:

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthre...ished-my-first-valve-adjustment-a-lil-nervous

Other discussions you may have found:

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/38729-vf500f-valve-adjustment-questions
http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/26008-VF500F-Valve-Adjustment
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/75516-valve-adjustment-question

 

One thing that'll confuse alot of peeps is following book directions to constantly be looking at timing marks on the crank. That's UNNECESSARY, as valves can be measured and adjusted at ANY point where the cam lobe is generally pointing AWAY from the valve. And you can always measure two valves at any point of cam rotation, one front and one rear usually.

On a VF500 especially i think it's important to remove the adjusting screw (and nut) from the arm and inspect the underside of the screw for damage. It's very common to find flat facets pounded into the surface (WHICH WAS ROUND WHEN NEW !) which will make a proper re-adjustment nearly impossible. ANY NEW ADJUSTMENT WON'T HOLD FOR LONG due to the surface damage.

You must also inspect valve tops for any signs of spreading, damage, mushrooming, especially critical on 500s. Honda may haven used the same adjustment screws on a variety of models from that era, so if you can find new replacements, that's the way to go.

 

I just did mine a few weeks ago. This bike (same as yours), is new to me, and my first. I'm a "change the spark plugs on my car but not going to repair my transmission" kind of inclined. Only had the shop manual and LOTS of time to muck about.

As Squirrel said, lining up the marks is not crucial or even necessary. Watch the rocker arms as the lobe passes and when they sit down together you are good to go. The lobes are obvious; you will be able to easily visually confirm that they are not engaging the lifters.

Make sure you are measuring the valve clearance and not the lobe/camshaft clearance, of which there is none. I was really stressing out that my bike was pooched or that I was a freaking moron... turns out I was being a moron.

Three are a number of videos of generic valve adjustments on the youtube. Watch enough of them to get comfortable with the idea and just do it. There was on in particular that featured a dude showing off his "Cheat" for an easy valve job on his scooter. He used a #2 Roberts head machine screw as his adjustment tool. Put the adjustment screw all the way down to the lifter then back it off 1/8th turn and voila. Tighten lock nut and check clearance again. Cannot find link but you'll know it if you see it.

It really is much easier than you are thinking it is right now. My mentality was identical to yours in the opening post, until I smoked one and jumped in.

 

Found it

[video=youtube;Mh9pM2SxEBw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mh9pM2SxEBw[/video]

 

OHhhhh. These are the same type of valves on my TTR 125. I thought they were the shim types. I have done these types before. Its the shim ones that confuse me. I am all over this!. Thanks for the 411

 

Well if you get stuck, there are many good threads on here about this. Making sure the valves clearances are right is really important on the VF500, so good luck.

 

Took at the task last night. And it went ok. Hardest issue was keeping having to rotate tire. To check next valve set. Oddly enough all valves were good. Most of them exactly at .006 one or two were at .005. It's quite easy. I already had forks, tank, seat and radiator off so that made the job easier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Easier when it's in neutral...

 

Just to update. I have done this task twice now. I didn't feel I did a rel good job the first time so i did it again. I will say buying the right tool makes it soo much easier. Pit Posse Tappet. Yes it was $25 but really made it easy to fine tooth it. I only had to adjust maybe 4 valves. Only issue I had was I put the front valve cover on backwards. Duh! But over all cakewalk task

 

Well done. Good idea to buy the right tool. It is a very fiddly job so anything that makes it easer is a good thing.