Starter Valves Synchronization

Hi all,

Had a read here : My Go At Starter Valve Synchronization - Lots Of Pics - VFR Discussion and thought mine should be checked.

Now I have not bought a manual yet and cant seem to find the answer to my question anywhere so this will be for anyone without a manual.

Can the sync be checked by using vacuum gauges as used when doing normal carb synchronization ?

Thanks
Mario

 

How to set up and use your Carbtune Pro might help.

For online manuals: www.labjes.com/downloads

 

Thanks for the info Arno,

It will be of great help in the near future !

Cheers

 

Yes.Plasma.

 

You sure can. As a matter of fact, I think a vacuum gauge is about the only way to check and sync them. Short of owning your own race team and having all the super expensive high tech goodies that is... then you would have your own mechanics and wouldn't care if they were synced or not. It would be someone else's problem at that point.

 

Ok so I have done the sync with the normal vacuum gauges. Worked like a bomb.

So to begin with it wasnt really off that much...only the one cylinder and after I had done it there wasnt really a big improvement ! :crazy:

So the surging continues and now I am thinking off getting rid of the damn thing

After the sync I also noticed that the auto "choke" doesnt work anymore, probably connected something wrong.

Anyone got an idea ?

Thanks
Mario

 

Alzazor, you mentioned surging. I have an 06 now with 11,000+ miles. With all the research I've done on surging both US and British web sites here's what I've come up with. It's inherent in a VFR and has to do with the O2 sensors and the MAP of the engine. Eliminating the O2 sensors will cure 98% of your surging problems. Mine was most noticeable when I hit around 7,000 rpms under hard acceleration, the engine just fell off and then picked back up. Upon cruising the surge was most noticeable around 5,500 rpms. It felt as though your plugs were fouling, bad gas, uneven throttle response, wind buffeting, something along those symptoms. You can unplug your O2 sensors and put 330 ohm resistors in the connectors which fools the engine computer. There are numerous threads in the mechanics portion of VFR World. That's how I found out about the fix. You can download all of the how to's with pictures showing the connectors and exactly how to go about installing the resistors. It will take maybe an hour of your time and you can get the resistors in a package of five from Radio Shack for around a dollar. Once you override the O2 sensors you'll notice a lot smoother throttle response through all the rpm ranges, the bike really seems to haul ass now! Numerous VFR owners around the world have performed this modification with no adverse effects on the engine. I've been running mine like this now for over a year and it has never run better. One thing though, if your on the center stand in neutral and slowly start to roll on the throttle you cannot get a smooth run up from 1500 rpm through 3500 rpms, the engine will run up and down over a 1500 rpm range. Again, this is something that is inherent in the VFR's regardless if the O2 sensors are overridden or not. However, you don't want to "freewheel" an engine anyway. Most, not all will respond accordingly when not under a load. Hope this has been of some help. Sync your starter valves, override the O2 sensors and let "er" fly.

 

there are other sites that basicaly only deal with this issue. The jist is that the settings in the 02-09 book are wrong and we should be using a modified setup of the 5th gen starter valve settings.
this said i have tried the settigns dead on as per the 02-09 shop book and my 07 ran rough and surged.
I reset the starter valves to the 01 settings and noticed a much smoother throttle, the surging is not as apparent and so far i have not lost any power that is noticeable.

Honda's official position is to set them as per the book. they are not set at pdi but are set during manufacture of the throttle bodies.
Honda also said the 01 settings would not work. in my opinion the are wrong.

the 02-09 shop book is missing several pages that are in the 01 book for the starter valves.

so here is my settings, use at your own risk. I assume no liability for your use of them.

#4 is your reference and is not adjustable, like the #1 cyl from the 01
#3 is set 10mmHg above #4
#2 is set 5mmHg below #4
#1 is set 10mmHg below #4

you must block off your pair valves with rubber stops and readjust you idle to 1200rpm(+/- 100) before you beguin and after the adjustments are made you must return the pair to working order and readjust the idle again. do not worry if one or mode are off the animomitor, just adjust untill all are equal to #4 them make your adjustments from there.

 

I wonder if this has something to do with the difference in the exhaust headers. 5th generation headers don't cross over like the 6th generation headers do. On the 6th gen the headers cross over so that cylinders 2&3 and 1&4 meet at the collector. On the 5th gen it is cylinders 1&2 and 3&4 that meet at the collector.

 

Apologies for re-hash of old thread.

I have been investigating about doing a sync on my 05. My #4 is diffinatley adjustable.... .

So I have 2 questions...
1 are you reffering to an 07 that #4 cant be adjusted...?
2 what is the correct original setting incase perivous owner played with it.

Cheers

 

You may be referencing the cylinders incorrectly relating to the number that is assigned to it. Cylinder 4 is the one that is not adjustable. All 6th Gen VFR's were the same way... 2002-2009. All of your other cylinders are set based upon the reading from this cylinder that can't be adjusted.

There is no "original factory setting" as each one was set differently to accommodate that particular engine. All you have to do is adjust the other three cylinders off of the reference cylinder regardless of what they are set to now.

 

Cheers.

Ok so not to be a prick...but if I pull on the adjust at #4...as per numbering on injector lead. it does seem as tho I can adjust it or is it just a dummy??
If so why have it??

Just making sure that its in the right spot before I start the sync on the weekend.

Cheers

 

You shouldn't have to pull on it to adjust it. The collar that is there is meant to hold it in place so you don't adjust that one. It is "permanently" preset and should be left alone. Simply connect the vacuum hoses to all four lines as you're supposed to and only adjust cylinders 1, 2, and 3 to match cylinder 4.

 

Good idea to mark all screws with a dot of paint facing forward, so you can always return settings to where you started if needed. You shouldn't need to turn any screw more than about 1/4 turn. Like carb synch, it's helpful to blip the throttle a couple times after moving any screw to allow throttle plates and linkages to settle in to the new position. :sneakiness:

( i thought meatloaf was mia, so welcome back!)

 

Well after hours of trying to get it to all sync. I now have 2 issues.

Firstly the bike did feel better to ride..

1. fast idle wax unit not engaging anymore on start up.

2. it seems as tho the starter valve "plunger" is worn, as It will move around inside the tube/casing etc and change the vacuum if I touch it before I turn it to adjust.

Can these items be serviced as such...

Any help would be great

Cheers

 

Bump.....still looking for help on this please

 

There's a video made by one of your fellow countrymen (Melbourne, Australia). I believe it was posted over at VFRD and youtube. The members name is Kaldek.

Here's the original post from VFRD
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/33-starter-valve-syncronization-vtec/

Here is Kaldek's video. I hope this helps.
[video=youtube_share;1sj33NXnm1c]http://youtu.be/1sj33NXnm1c[/video]

 

Cheers for that.

I have watched this, but doesn't really answer my question.
I will take some pics and explain what answer im chasing.

Cheers

 

The #1 and #2 must be related. If you just tuned the starter valves but didn't do more like remove coolant hoses or the throttle bodies, and the wax unit worked before, then it sounds like something is loose or disconnected.

One of you guys who owns the wax unit, any feedback?

 

I agree with Knight. If it was working before it should be working now unless you disturbed something in the process. Considering all the lines that are there, it is very possible

The FIW units are somewhat known to be problematic too and it could be that you messed with the plunger enough to finish what was left of an almost ready to blow seal. Alternative the thermostat could be sticking closed and not allowing coolant to flow to it. What's your engine temp when warmed up? Ballistic? Normal?