Best engine cleaner to clean the inside of the engine??

Hello everyone, I need some help or advice. I have been restoring my 2001 vfr800 and it had been dropped by PO. When I changed the oil, seemed like coolant had gone into the engine case. After a few oil changes, its been looking pretty good. I finally got it turned on and it sounds great!. I changed the oil once again, since it showed a little milky, but not bad. Once changed, I finally decided to ride it. Well that didn't go well as it would stall once I put it in first gear. I did everything to get the clutch unstuck, nothing worked. I checked the slave cylinder and that works, I opened up the clutch case and man the plates were stuck together due to the coolant from previous. I had a peak inside the case and I can see residue of the milky stuff. I am replacing the clutch plates, but I wanted to know what I can do to clean it more with out dropping the oil pan. I have been told to mix 2 quarts of diesel with 3 quarts of oil and run it for 10 min under idle. Anyone have any other recommendation? Another question, can I start it with out the clutch pack? The clutch plates don't get here till Monday.

 

Has anyone used Motul engine cleaner?
I saw reviews and can be used in motorcycles safely.

 

I don't know about that product, but I have a 1996 Ford Explorer that's run dino oil all of its 180,000+- life and I ran Rotella T6 for is last oil change. After about 6k miles, the amount of junk that came out with the oil was incredible. It really cleaned the engine up. I've never had so much junk come out in an oil change. I refilled it with Rotella T6 again, so I am curious what it will look like this time.

I think that if you've run synthetic with proper OCIs, your engine is most likely pretty clean.

 

It sounds like you have a blown head gasket if you're seeing milky residue in the oil. To doublecheck this try filling the coolant all the way up the radiator neck. Then wait until tomorrow to check the coolant level again. Does it go down? If so it sounds like a blown head gasket and the only way to fix it is to take the heads off, mill the heads and install new gaskets.

 

I have checked and filled the coolant, no leaks and no smoke from engine. I think the coolant got in the engine case when previous owner dropped it. Bike had been sitting since 06. I have changed the oil about 4 times after starting motor and letting it idle for about 20 minutes. Coolant still good and no overheating. Oil looks a whole lot better, but still a little milky due to the stuff stuck at the bottom of engine. I saw it when I uncovered the clutch case. Everything else looks ok, just a little milky at the bottom. I was thinking of filling it up with Mogul or marvelous oil with 5w 30 letting it idle for about 10 min then changing oil again see if it helps. Just wanted to make sure it would be safe. Also, don't know if it would be safe to turn it on with out the clutch plates on.

 

I am thinking of using Marvel Mystery oil. Has anyone used this on the VFR with good results?

 

Not a clue as to how the coolant got into the oil. If this is so, the emulsified bits will have physical and observable characteristics. Maybe drain and refill the cooling loop with distilled water to see if the transition is still being done. It may take several rounds of flushing to get rid of the coolant if it is coolant. Not much sense in using one of the oils that are expensive. Use the cheap stuff until the oil comes clean when drained. Check that filter too.. Gas that has added ethanol might well be the culprit. Ethanol is hygroscopic. (likes water)

One of the better wrenches may even know of a product that really works in one app.

Another question might be if the engine is running right and there is not a lot of the evidence of the mixing of the two "whatevers" maybe just running the bike might solve the problem.

 

There is nothing to put in your engine to clean it. Everything out there and the back yard stuff will do more harm than anything. Just change the oil with filter. Now for your problem. The coolant can not get in to the engine oil area just by laying on it's side, even for years. So you have a coolant leak some where.

I would do a compression check on all cylinders just for starters. Then pressurize the cooling system to see if it holds pressure. That will check the head gasket for the most part. The water pumps have two seals one to keep oil from getting in to the cooling system and another to keep water out of the engine where the pumps drive shaft and housing is. Sounds like it could be the water pump water seal is bad. After four oil changes there should be no milky stuff in the engine I would think.

 

Does it have to be coolant? Could it be water from another source?

 

Great advice here^^^. Find the leak/source, fix it and run engine oil in the engine.

 

And from real mechanics too..

 

THX you may be correct. It may have gotten water some how. Just don't know how. Grey if coolant can't go into the oil by laying on the side and there is no leak as of now, there is only one reason it, maybe the seal at the oil pump? Maybe after I was able to turn it on, the seal expanded? I see no coolant leaking, I have checked the compression in the cylinders and everything good. However I have not done a leak test in the cooling system. Bike sounds great, for the exception of the clutch plates being stuck. I think I will continue to do a few oil changes to completely clear it up. I will take some pictures to show you what I am seeing. Just got my clutch friction plates in, will be installing today, so I will be able to uncover the clutch cover and take a picture. I have to scrub off the cork off the metal plates, really stuck Its so hot in Texas it may take a few hour for it to cool down for me to start working on it.

 

Ok guys, it seems like its getting cleaner and cleaner as I keep changing the oil. Here are a few pictures I took as I was cleaning the plates. I went ahead an ordered new ones, these had the fibers stuck on them pretty good. I am still cleaning them for extra, much easier to just get new ones for the new friction plates. Whatever it was that was in the case cause them to stick bad.

 

Wish I can just put something in the engine and shake it really good and then let it all come out! Hear lots of good stuff about Motul. It says its for motorcycles with wet clutches...I am tempted :torn:irate: