Odd handling after bike got serviced...

I don't know everything there is to know either and never will..there are a couple folks here who know everything, but I'm certainly not one of 'em.

I have spent a bit of time at the track, either at races or track days, talking to the tire technicians from all of the major manufacturers. They are actually very willing to answer most all questions, even the dumbest ones I've asked. I have also found that sending emails to the technical support folks will almost always get a response.

The biggest thing I've noticed is that people don't take advantage of their tire's full capabilities....they just read the manual and use the 36/42 pressure. Every tire is different, email tech support and ask them for the best ranges based upon the type of tire and riding you're doing. In my experience 36/42 is too high. Going up or down a couple psi can make a noticeable difference. Ambient temperature and road surface also comes into play.

I always check the date code, or ask if I'm buying online, set the pressure to what the manufacturer recommends, heat cycle the tires a couple times, scrub 'em in for 50-100 miles and go from there. As an example I have had tires that worked best at 32-34 front and 33-36 rear....you gotta ask.

 

I read that heat cycling is only required for racing tires. Can you advise?

Hey I like you because you go straight to the source. I bet you do that for everything, am I right? I read everything but sometimes I fail to authenticate the authority, which is a problem. I also have a business partner who uses that same TV character as an avatar. I cannot relate though as I don't watch the show.

You really nailed that on the head. I am a novice rider. Before I rode yesterday I checked the tires. They were at 34/40. I left them that way but wondered the entire time if they should meet the VFR recommended pressure. In my car I set the pressure purely according to feel and performance, and am in perfect tune with the feel and tradeoffs of varying the pressure. However I have been driving a car for decades, and I am not sensitive at all to subtle setup changes on my VFR yet.

I took your advice and wrote Metzeler. I told them everything about my riding and conditions. Let us see what they say about tire pressure. Thanks.

Let me apologize to WillemK. I did not mean to go off topic and want to hear good stories about how your fix is coming along.

 

Well, this is quite interesting!

Why should you decrease tire pressure? I've read that softer settings give you more grip, but handling is decreased. Doesn't the ride get sloppy if you do that? Or is that the compromise for increased grip?

I just came back from a ride. Mostly dry road. And now I really concentrated on what the bike felt like. At low speeds the bike is still a bit nervous. But she turns lighter and it feels like those BT-021's have more than enough grip for my driving style. So I'm getting a bit cocky now. The next thing I noticed is that my Viffer bounces when I go around a corner fast. The rear damper setting is about half a turn from the max hard position. I increased it a bit, but the bike still feels nervous at high speed corners. I weigh around 103kg's... Maybe I'm too heavy...

I'm sorry for the many questions, but I'm driving everyday for almost two months now. So there is a lot I try to learn.

 

I don't mind Knight. I'm learning a lot, reading experiences from other riders!

You can read books about every topic, but you learn by cracking problems with other people. And because I'm a novice driver, with a far from perfect bike, every bit of experience is welcome. My bike still needs a lot of TLC and my drivingskills are far from what they should be.

 

If you have a 20 year old bike and the shock hasn't been replaced... it is shot. And I'm not wanting to call you out for your weight, but the bike is way undersprung for somebody of your size. If you really want to get it right, have the suspension redone for your weight.....Even springs and a fluid change will help the forks a little. Not sure the shock is even worth messing with, other than to bin it. The bouncing you are feeling is the rebound circuit.

On the cheap, I recommend Race Tech Gold Valves, new springs and a full service. Many of the parts in the forks are made to wear out and they need to be disassembled and inspected and have all of the expendable bits replaced. A new standard emulsion shock, with the proper spring, will at least get you closer than where you are.

First, Pull the rear wheel, shock and suspension linkage apart, then pull the swingarm pivot bolt and check all of the bearings and seals, if they check out, grease them up good with a quality grease. Inspect the pivot bolt for rusting or pitting...remove any light rust with steel wool.

Second, pull the rear wheel hub assembly apart and inspect all of the bits for wear, replace any bits that aren't in good shape. Make sure to look at the cush drive dampers. Remove any visible rust with steel wool. Grease everything with a quality grease. Do this while the swingarm is off the bike for the pivot bolt inspection and maintenance. (This is also a good time to check the brake rotor run out and disc thickness)

Third, pull the entire linkage apart, inspect the bearings, seals, and pivot bolts. Replace any of the bits that aren't in good shape. Any light rust can be removed from the bolts with steel wool. Reassemble with quality grease. You will also perform this step while the swingarm pivot maintenance is being done.

Reinstall the swingarm and pivot bolt...grease the bolt before sliding it through to put the nut on. Install the nut and torque to Honda specs.

Reintall the linkage pivot bolts and nuts, grease the bolts up good before sliding them through, attach the nuts..torque to Honda specs.

Reinstall the rear wheel hub, make sure everything is greased up real good. Torque the lock nut to Honda specs and peen the washer. Pay special attention to the hub pinch bolt and the threads in the swingarm. Chase the swingarm threads to make sure they are clean. Scrub the bolt with a wire brush and wipe off. Apply a small dab of anti sieze to this bolt before reinstalling. After setting the chain tension, torque the pinch bolt to Honda specs.

Reinstall the shock, torque the upper and lower nuts and bolts to Honda specs.....Bolt on rear wheel, of course, torqued to Honda specs, done.

You won't really be able to know if the suspension is working smoothly if you don't do these steps first. This must be done before anything else is attempted.

The forks are easier, as there is no linkage and it is only a matter of removing the wheel and loosening the pinch bolts and they should slide right out.

Wow, time for a little nip of Evan Williams and relax.

 

Well, went to the shop today... Again... I'm lucky they're quite used to customers like me. It's like a big family.

The guy there tested the steering head and he indeed said, as you forummers did, that the steering head is a little bit too tight. But he recons it'll settle, so he adviced me to ride another 500km's to give it some time. Then he will check the head again. He'll also check the steering bar, that seems bent. Big chance it's the triple clamp.

Last but not least, thanks Norcalboy for the amount of information! I talked it over with him and he again tested it. He adviced me to tweak the suspension before removing the shock. It could be that the combination of the setup and my weight is causing the bike to 'bottom-out' at the rear. I increased the pre-load and damper a bit. The ride isn't as comfortable anymore, but I can feel a little improvement.

 

If it was too tight, he should have loosened it then and there. There's no reason to think that it "it'll settle". In the meantime you're set up with a uncomfortably handling bike. No excuses for that.

 

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I wouldn't be too concerned. I'm pretty certain its just your tires. I put new DUnlop ROadsmarts on my 1995 and the bike felt like it was riding on a knife edge for a few rides and weaving slightly.
Now rides fine.

 

I'll put some kilometers on it then! The tires are still improving. Today I drove to work and when I came back 2 hours ago (it's 1.40 AM in Holland), the road was empty and I had some fun. It handles quite good and my setup seems to work now.

Last things to do are straightening the steering and replacing the old and bent radiator. And after all technical issues are fixed, the cosmetics can be improved!

 

I always take sandpaper to my new tires and just scuff them , then just hose them off ............ I think it helps