How to fix common regulator/Stator failures

I have yet to hear of any FH020AA failures so far. Mine has been going strong for three years so far. I have it mounted to the left passenger foot peg. Direct Soldered to the OEM stator and bolted right to the battery for the shortest possible electrical pathway (fused). It makes relatively no heat and the voltage is steady at 14.0v unloaded.

I have tried the Shindengen series SH775 before (installed on my friends 2009 zx6r). It had solid readings but actually had a pretty high heat out put. I would say somewhere in between an older shunt RR and a new MOSFET FH020AA.

I do really like the idea of not running the stator at 100% all the time, but I wasn't really impressed with the sh775 and decided to hold off on series technology for a little while. That was 1.5 years ago. I will try again when my current charging system gives up the ghost.

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You are missing the point - as others have said, with no budgetary restraints you can produce a very long lasting charging system. But in the real world its the bean counters who rule when making millions of anything. Cutting just one dollar off any item feeds directly through to the company's profits.

Look at this from the manufacturers perspective - what we have now is a win - win situation. If you install a bought in charging system to a motorbike - you don't have to mess about with its fabrication - and its going to come with a warranty - so if things go wrong during that period your dealerships will sort the problem for your customer and behind the scenes you can just pass through the cost of any repairs to the supplier of the defective parts. If it fails after then, well your dealerships and parts supply chain can be confident of a steady supply of chargeable work which will help keep their workshop staff profitably employed.

Are you really surprised that after so many years we still have this nonsense?

At least we now have a fix it once solution - for several years now the guys at http://www.roadstercycle.com/ have been producing easy to fit RR upgrades using Mosfet equipment for most VFRs (and a heap of other similarly afflicted bikes), which they are happy to post pretty much anywhere in the world except Russia. Thus far I have not encountered a single report of them failing.. so the answer is already out there, but people seem unwilling to pay a few bucks more for a more reliable solution.

Hey ho that's business for you.


SkiMad

 

Skid, I'm well aware of the beancounter situation in business, I would like to see people rocking up to buy a new bike and then ask for the dealership to remove the R/R and give me a credit so I can go and buy a Mosfet setup. Would love to get a utube of the salesmans face and reaction, you could go into all the detail about how we know these things fail and why the manufacturer cheaps out on this equipment and how the manufacturer makes more money out of supplying replacement parts that are known to fail than probably selling the bike in the first place

 

Too true! Built in obsolescence is all around us, but in our throw-away society, most people are not willing (able) to pay Rolls Royce money for a motorbike which will really last.






SkiMad

 

As long as people keep buying Chinese garbage rr's and stator replacements, we will still have ten, "HELP my bike isn't charging" posts a week.


On a side note
Honda supplied the cbr1000 with MOSFET Shindengen RR's in 2005 and the CBR600 in 2006.

I may be off by a year, but for some reason they never got around to the VFR800. I think the vfr1200 was MOSFET though. Hopefully they finally went MOSFET with the eighth gen.

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Well you hit on the very key of society. Everything is price driven by the consumer. If people wanted robust consumables, they would demand them. Quality is somewhat low on peoples' priority list. Thus the US got what they wanted, stores full of Chinese goods. Part of the driver of this is that people want to buy a house and fill that entire house up with everything they need right now. The only way to afford that is to cheapen everything, including our largest expenses, cars and motorcycles. Add to this peoples' want to eat out four times a week, and have cell phones for every family member, and cable TV, on and on with emptying every cent they make.

The other side of this is that there is some balance to our society. I cannot afford a Lexus. However, I can buy a ten year old Lexus for eight or nine thousand dollars. Low income people have a great many choices in life as a result of the hand-me-down, degrading consumable. If every item was the proverbial Rolls Royce then low income people would have no choices in life. That would motivate some to become more successful, but provide a very boring life for most. I am not a material person but I think it is nice that our society has many material choices.

That said if I ever get the chance to manufacture, I will make Rolls Royce products of high quality, at a premium price. This business of cheapening everything and the race to "grow the business" for growth's sake is nonsense. Actually I did publish a book and made it full color, even though the cost of color is dramatically more expensive, and slashed my commission. But it looks beautiful and that is what matters.

I just ordered my VFR toolkit from Harry Epstein who sells primarily American made tools The total bill is $130. Those hand tools will be buried with this VFR. I will NEVER throw a bent Chinese box wrench in the landfill and replace it with another one. I also have rabbit ears and go out to eat only about five times a year, so there is a lot of sacrifice in occasionally buying premium products.

About the aftermarket MOSFET R/Rs not failing: It seems to me by the time a motorcyclist has studied all of the issues of the bike, and installed a premium R/R, they are also monitoring everything on their bike carefully. Thus how many monitor their battery voltage and never, ever run the battery down? Do not run the battery down and you never create a massive current situation which fries the weakest component, the R/R hardware or the high power connections. The perceived difference in real-world survivability of the OEM R/R vs. the aftermarket R/R is probably exaggerated due to the high education and better habits of those that purchase the aftermarket part.

 

Can't help but admire a guy who has all the world's motorcycle problems solved in two or three paragraphs.

 

Hopefully this second "add user to ignore list" will be my last.

Why are not SOW and BB banned?

 

That was a good read. Right on point. Hit the nail on the head with me. I have a voltmeter mounted and I glance down at it every few minutes. Lol

About the RR aftermarket/OEM, though...

I would consider electro sport/Ricks/compufire/generic Chinese stuff etc "aftermarket".

On the other hand with the Shindengen RR's. Shindengen is the OEM supplier for basically all motorcycle manufactures, so is it aftermarket?

I consider Shindengen OEM (with the newer offerings as just an upgraded OEM) and I wouldn't go near aftermarket RR's. I will just stick with using whatever the current flagship offering from Shindengen is. It would be safe to assume that Shindengen has the most R&D out there.

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Maybe your metaphorical R/R hasn't the juice. I do have a solution of one sentence. Start your own VFR website, then you can ban everyone who lets a little air out of your tires.

 

On a less trolling/trollbashing theme... ahem :uncomfortableness:

The view of my undressed bike this morning after my replacement RR finally showed up to end my painful few motorcycleless days:



I know, it's bodged at the moment but I needed to get her moving again and am gonna get some proper wiring terminal plugs for the not-very-OEM RR soon.
The result? 14.5v to the battery. So the answer is, yes indeed, your RR can pass diode test and still have regulated and rectified its last volt!

On which subject, perhaps someone can clarify something for me. My replacement had its first home on an R1, and is a FH012AA unit. As it isn't new (I thought perhaps my money was better spent on a high quality used one than a shiny new one built with poor quality components - I suppose time will tell if that was a good call), I thought I'd perform a diode test on it before I installed. On one side, the result was circa 500 from all three stator connection points. On the other, 125 to 132... Is this result so different from what you'd expect on the factory-fit VFR800 RR because this is a series MOSFET RR? or is something not quite as it should be?

 

dif is mosfet compared to ttl logic

 

The fh012AA is a MOSFET/shunt RR, not a series RR.

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Hmmm, could that be why I'm detecting an anomalous frequency modulation in the alcubierre plasma splitter?
Perhaps I need to compensate for the gravimetric charge imbalance by re-routing power through the thorium control circuit...
Mind you, if I dump the zero-point storage batteries without deactivating the supersonic phase matrix, the whole system could be irreparably damaged....


Sorry dude, that means nothing to me! hehe.

 

that made me laugh ^^^^thanks dude

 

And just for one second I really thought he was onto something. Problem is we have never been able to establish that if from new soldering and heatshrinking the stator wires would have saved rec/regs from being trashed, it usually is only when problems start that people then solder the wires but has there already been damage done to the rec/reg causing it to fail further down the line

 

I have a newly acquired(to me)4th generation(1996 VFR750) and connector is still present, though all wiring for R/R has been upgraded and new SUN R/R is present. Output at the battery during idle and 4-5k rpm is 14-14.4V.

Question, should I solder the wires together from stator to R/R or leave the connector?

 

Are you a good solderer? If so, yes; do it. I use a butt-connector and strip off the plastic. Then, I cut an appropriate piece of shrink tubing and slide it on the wires I will be soldering. At that point I crimp the wires on the connector and stake them. Use the solder tip to heat the connector and feed in your solder. Once cooled slide the shrink tubing that you had waiting onto the cooled connector, use a heat gun or your trusty bic-lighter. Then your done, I do this to the three yellows on the stator to harness connector too. Its just good practice thats all. Hope this helps, there are lots of ways to do stuff really. This style has served me well over the years though. eace:

 

From now on I will take my bikes to Knat who will take them to his 90 peso.hr mechanic who is on vacation so I don't ruin my manicure.

 

Thanks so much. Are there a specific size for butt connectors?

That should only be done for yellow(4) wires from stator to R/R yellow wires(4), correct? Thanks again.