FH020AA installation

Discussion in '3rd & 4th Generation 1990-1997' started by Threerotor, Aug 31, 2015.

  1. Threerotor

    Threerotor New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2015
    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Hey guys,

    I just bought the Super kit from roadstercycle.com its the most sold kit he sells, because you don't have to do a lot of soldering and such. My only problem is mounting the new RR where the old was at, since there are 2 plugs on the new RR, my exhaust hanger is in the way of my gray plug. Before i think about mounting it somewhere else or drilling holes in the aluminum plate that every stock RR is against, does anyone have anywhere maybe in the front of the bike where they have mounted their own hidden? I was also thinking about just connecting my 3 yellow wire plug to the 3 yellow stator wires directly from the stator itself.. good idea? i don't see why not, my black plug on the new rr has 3 feet of wire that would easily be able to be ran from the front of the bike to the battery.

    By the way my bike is naked/streetfighter, my options are limited and I'm working on deleting a lot of wiring that is not needed .
     


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #1
  2. desktopdave

    desktopdave New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2009
    Messages:
    111
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Map
    I'd splice the three yellow wires anywhere that's convenient, although I'd recommend a connector. Those WeatherPacks or MetriPacks connectors are nice. It just makes things easier if you ever swap out a motor. The newer FET type R/Rs don't generate as much heat so location isn't as critical. As long as you have it mounted to the frame I'd think it'll be OK.
     


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #2
  3. VFRVogt

    VFRVogt New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2015
    Messages:
    115
    Likes Received:
    17
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Atlanta
    Map
    Let me know what you end up with in the end Threerotor because this will be the next step in the evolution of my electrics if this last go around I did fails.
     


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #3
  4. Threerotor

    Threerotor New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2015
    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Will do bro. I think anyone would recommend a new RR anyday, it's essential to our electrical systems
     


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #4
  5. Threerotor

    Threerotor New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2015
    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Ok thanks I'll try and find a good location to place it today
     


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #5
  6. slovcan

    slovcan New Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2013
    Messages:
    231
    Likes Received:
    22
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Annapolis Valley, NS, Canada - IBA #63720
    Here are some pictures of what I did on my '90. I did drill one hole in the back plate to mount the new and bigger R/R just forward of the original location. For the top mounting bolt I used 2 fender (or penny) washers to "clamp" the top mount point to the back plate. I also put a washer or 2 between the new R/R and the back plate (on the bolts) to accommodate the lip on the front of the back plate (so no stress on the body of the R/R) and create a small air gap between the R/R and the back plate. The front fins of the new R/R now make contact with the foam insulation on the inside of the side plastic bodywork so I put strips of metal HVAC tape on the foam all the way up to the top edge of the plastic side fairing. I was going to put some of that tape on the underside of the seat too, but after running it I find there is not enough heat to really worry about. The R/R gets up to about 45°C.

    I did use spade terminals to connect into the bike's harness because I had a road trip planned and wanted to be able to convert back to the still good original R/R on the side of he road if necessary. I will do proper solder splices there at some point. I have since eliminated the original 3 yellow wire plug and soldered those wires. The plug was getting very hot to the touch, but had not yet discolored it with the heat. The spliced and heat-shrink wrapped wires don't even get warm now! My new R/R came with a new weatherproof plug for the output side and a new heavy duty looking plug for the 3 yellow wires.

    Cheers,
    Glenn

    RIMG0093.jpg 15070029a.jpg 15070033.jpg 15070036.jpg
     


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #6
  7. Threerotor

    Threerotor New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2015
    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Intersting,
    thanks for that. I'm gonna take some pics later today and post them to show you what's in the way of me mounting my new RR where yours is. I honestly don't think it's needed but there is a bar that's bolted to the subframe that holds my muffler in place. I think it may be good without it.
     


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #7
  8. Threerotor

    Threerotor New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2015
    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    IMG_0955.JPG

    IMG_0953.JPG

    IMG_0951.JPG

    IMG_0956.JPG

    IMG_0960.JPG

    IMG_0963.JPG

    IMG_0961.JPG

    IMG_0965.JPG

    IMG_0966.JPG

    IMG_0967.JPG

    IMG_0969.JPG
    IMG_0968.JPG
     


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #8
  9. Threerotor

    Threerotor New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2015
    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    I seriously don't know why the photo's upload sideways, I tried uploading in normal size and smaller size.

    Anyways, from the pics you will see at what a bad job the previous owner did. The stock frame is cut and as well as the side plastics that fit to the gas tank.
    From the pics shown, you'll see the mess of wires sitting under the seat. I fit the new RR where the old where the same two holes were used on the previous. It won't work with that hanger thats in the way of the plug (shown in pic) I also showed where the 3 wires from the stator connector were that connected to the Wiring Harness. I also showed you the setup I have, it's a nice RR i'd say. Even if it were to fit in the same position as the old RR there is 3 feet of not needed wire that connects to the battery. I could shorten it I guess. Also showed the options I have by putting it under the seat (I know it looks tacky) but I routed the 3 yellow wire stator connector through, near the battery where i could connect the RR to if it were to be seated under the seat. I have a lot of work to do, as far as getting rid of un-needed wiring and getting a new subframe/seat. Let me know what you guys think. You'll also see I already cut the old RR connector. The new RR is practically plug and play, is this exhaust hanger needed? I'd also like to see where a stock one is located.
     


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #9
Related Topics

Share This Page