FI light sputter high revs

I actually just started having some FI troubles. Think it's that ground block. Is that wrapped up in the harness? I don't remember seeing it last time I had the rear cowl off.

 

good call tink, i forgot about that damn ground block

 

Ground block was pretty easy to identify. Removed it and soldered all the wire ends together. Didn't see anything obvious in the connectors.. Plan on doing some decent riding tomorrow, I'll see what happens.

 

keep us posted! The VFR is a rock....still going strong with FI light ON! I'll have some time over the weekend to tinker with the damm bus. I've been riding this to worki instead!

 

100 miles so far so good.

 

Well another 100+ miles and still no FI light. So it seems it was the ground block.

 

Ok so I identified the ground block...I must confess I've never taken the rear fairing out myself (never found the need), so now I actually know my bike a little better.

Identified!



It's behind crappy electrical tape...Can't believe Honda!





Popped it open, plied the metal conectors out:



And the metal.connector showed signs of corrosion/arc-ing, especially the far rigjt of the 8 pin block (anyone know what this pair of ground wires belong to?



anyway, cutting to the chase... I'm meant to solder all the green wires together?? Pair by pair or just solder one big blob together?

 

you can put them all together

 

I had the same problem. I soldered the block added Grounds to the frame including the from the black box

 

Soldered the block and added a ground from the solder to the frame and still getting the FI light.

I also changed the Baro sensor...still get the FI light, Same code

What now?

 

Well that stinks.

Look, I don't doubt what rjgti and tink have said in this thread. They know way more about this than I do. But have you gone through all your connections thoroughly? Have you checked the connections for the R/R and stator? Looked for any resemblance of wires that are crispy or turning brown? Its been years since it happened, but I know that I was getting an FI code for the baro sensor, and no surprise it turned out I had some "hidden" wires that were showing signs of being toast. Once I cleaned everything up (and replaced the R/R and soldered the 3 yellows from R/R to stator), never saw the code again.

Edit: I'm looking at your post #28 on page 1. The second picture down. There is a clip right by your knuckle in that picture. Again, I'm no genius, but is that clip crusty looking, or is that just grease and/or residual tape on that thing? If its crusty, that's the type of thing that will lead to issues.

Fact: On page 129 of your owners manual, Honda states "All VFRs come with inadequate electrical systems that will eventually result in electrical gremlins. These gremlins are also transferred to any future owner". :smug:

 

did you ever measure baro output voltage at the sensor and the pcm?

 

Just a minor defeat, but I'm sure the battle will be won - 17 year old bike, can't be this difficult to sort out!

I still trust u guys 10x more than I trust my local Indy or Spanish Honda dealers. For me, the main problem with diagnosing and going through every little thing is that I ride it on a daily basis and never get much time to DIY it - With regards to checking the voltage on the Baro sensor - I took the path of least effort at the time, which was to cut, solder, tape up and buy new sensor (used - €20) so bare with me whilst I try to sort the gremlin out.

I'll try to keep documenting everything with photographs so as to create future reference for anybody going through the same suffering

Next up the list:
- Check sensor voltages - I could have bought a defective second hand baro but I doubt it. The three cables that come out of the sensor's grey female plug look very dirty - I wonder if the plug can be taken apart to be cleaned? - photos soon.
- As suggested, I'll have a thorough look at all connectors to see if I find anything suspicious.
- The connector next to my knuckle on post #28 is oily and caught dirt - doesn't look like it's burnt, however I will give it a thorough inspection, taking it apart, cleaning and mounting it again.
- My bike has a DFO that has always worked fine since it was installed 5 years ago, and an aftermarket alarm that has been deactivated recently. I have no idea how the wiring of these two modules was made so I will try to unplug everything back to stock (If it gets too tough for me I'll have to give the task to my local Indy or take it to the stealer).

More info soon! Thanks once again for your precious feedback!

 

Spoke to soon, my FI light keeps coming back on. Just the TP sensor code. The way it behaves makes me think it's still a connection issue. Can do 200 miles, nothing. Then have it light up 4x within 50 miles. I'll be checking all connectors and cleaning pins from sensor back to ECM. Probably test the TP sensor per service manual if cleaning connectors doesn't get any where.

 

I changed the Baro sensor just for peace of mind (20eur used), and checked voltages as per the service manual and all was good. However I still get the light.

I soldered the ground block, checked connectors and all seems OK.

I can do 600km weekend trips where the FI light will only come on on the first 60km the trip. Which is weird because after those 60 initial kms no matter how many times I start/stop it won't come on. However, on short 30km trips to work and back home during the week, the FI will always come to haunt me.

I have noticed it seems to just come on during decelleration - when you release the throttle, usually accompained by an exhaust "pop".

 

Did you see this regarding the "bank angle sensor"?

http://www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/fo...033-honda-vfr-800-fi-light-and-engine-cut-out

 

so... Pulled the connector on the TP sensor. a bit of oxidation on the pins, nothing crazy. There's no o-ring on that specific connector I can see. Ohm'd the sensor and slowly rotated the throttle. Didn't find any dead zones with my meter and values increased/decreased smoothly.

However, upon checking the ECM I found the two plastic pop rivets that keep the lid closed, were missing. So basically, my ECM has been free to bounce around and shift inside its home. :cower:

So, I'm going to make sure I get the ECM secured then log a few hundred miles, before I dig into the wiring harness any further. Hopefully the light goes away.

 

new pop rivets installed ECM secured. 300 mile trip, traffic, mountains, interstate etc.. No FI light. Have a hunch it was the ECM bouncing around that was causing the issues.