86 VFR700 Steering Head Torque

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by keensali, Jun 4, 2015.

  1. keensali

    keensali New Member

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    Hey folks, I have been working on my 86 trying to get the front end a little better. I am installing All Balls Tapered bearings. I see the torque numbers some folks have been using, but I am a bit confused on what gets torqued.
    On the top of my steering stem, I have my new race and bearing installed. Next, after the dust seal, I install a large washer/cap and then a double set of castle type lock nuts. Do these lock nuts(I don't know the actual term for them, but lock nuts sounds professional) determine the torque on the bearings? If so, how do you gauge the torque in foot pounds?
    When it comes to wheel bearings with similar race set ups, I would torque until I felt some resistance, then back off a quarter turn and button it up.
    I am certainly able to torque the final 30mm nut that goes on top of the overall triple, but I struggle to see how that nut relates to the bearing load/torque. I would love some knowledge so I can get a better understanding on this set up.
     
  2. fredsncoma

    fredsncoma New Member

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    It's been a long time since I did mine. I think what you intend to do sounds best. I don't remember 'torquing' them per se.
     
  3. Ghost

    Ghost New Member

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    Lock nuts have a reverse radial rib on the underside of the nut. They are whats called "crush ribs". Those ribs are intended to scar the mating surface and prohibit the nut from reversing on its own.
    [​IMG]
    The nuts you're referring to, do need to be flush, and i would put a little 1/8th turn into them just for good measure. (Do this when the bike steel is "cold" and not heated up in the sun). Then torque the main cap on the Triple. That final torque is what keeps the Triple in a "vise-like" state to keep water / dust from creeping in. The bikes steering is engineered to create whats called a "torturous path" for water and debris to get to the bearing.

    The reason why you see varying torque numbers, is due to the variety of bearings people use for their bikes. Some bearings can take more force on clamp than others.

    Its hard to go wrong here unless you leave stuff loose. At least... this is my suggestion.
     
  4. keensali

    keensali New Member

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    I appreciate the feedback. My understanding challenge comes with the torque of the top 30mm nut. In my mind, the torque applied to this nut in particular, only applies from the nut base to the top of the highest lock nut(essentially, clamping the top triple down on the top lock nut). I cannot see how it relates to the torque on the bearings themselves.
    The only pressure applied to the bearings(pressure in terms of tightening forces) can only come from the initial locking nut. I am sure the second locking nut is to do just that, lock the lower nut from reversing. If this is accurate, how does one "torque" the bearings into their races?. How do you measure the torque on the locking nuts?
    I am simply using a hammer and punch to tighten/loosen these locking nuts.
     
  5. Ghost

    Ghost New Member

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    Its based upon the steel casing malleability. But Im showing my Engineer-Nerdism's again. In automotive engineering, those types of washers are called External Tooth Lock Washers.. Some have threads, some have little tabs, that catch an internal thread.

    Anyway, your answer is, just get the bearing lock tight. Then when using a punch or flat blade screwdriver and hammer, spin the lock washer around until its tight, then give it another few taps for good measure. Those aren't torqued. Sorry, I didnt quite understand the nut you were referring to. I think I am clearer now.
     
  6. keensali

    keensali New Member

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    I think Ghost, Fred, and I are on the same page in terms of tightening the locking nuts to keep the bearings seated in their races properly.
    I may have been wondering mentally when I was reading several posts about using 5-15ft/lbs of torque on the bearings. Had me thinking there was a specific way to tighten these locking nuts so that you can get a torque reading from it. I am sure there is some contraption that the Honda engineers designed that would do the trick, but would cost me the price of a small car to buy.
    I will carry on with the install old school. Thanks guys.
     
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