J B Weld is my best friend

I need a new radiator! this one is bent and today it was leaking.
so J B Weld and hope it last till i get a new one!

 

It's some great stuff. I got a little carried away one time and broke the support post for the carb float pivot. I got out the trusty JB Weld and put the post back into place. Two years later when I pulled that carb back apart the JB Weld was still holding. Pretty darned impressive after a couple years exposed to gasoline.

 

I've used JB weld on my carbs too. Had to reverse the badness done by a dynojet jet kit. The slides were drilled out and I found out the size of the original slides, filled the drilled holes, redrilled to OEM size, 4 years later, still going strong!

 

A must have for any motorcycle workshop

 

JB Weld is good stuff. A non conductive alternative line:

http://www.amazon.com/ECLECTIC-PRODUCTS-INC-5330031-Amazing/dp/B000BPB15C

Two component pastes in separate containers. When the instructions say to mix well, believe it. The stuff sets up fast too.

Neither product adheres well to ABS plastic. They work for awhile but the two substrates do not get along well.

For general "fibreglassing" , System Three. com in Kent, WA. Rebuilt an entire BMW RS100 fairing that was from a total. Finished pic on Rich's seats .com

Are these plugs? yep..

I can't say much aboot the two plunger syringe system that is currently the hot item on the market. Kind of wasteful if the environment is warm. The major drawback is if the replaceable tip is re-installed ass backward there is a potential for cross contamination of the components. The fix would be to have the cylinders numbered and the tip numbered but I think the designer used to work for Harley-Davidson.

 

JB weld seems to run and sag more than it used to. Doesn't set up as quick even if you use a little more hardener.

 

Last lot I got from ebay they sent JB Quick, only used it a couple of times but it doesn't seem as good but it sets in about 5 mins

 

JB Weld like Bondo is generic. Both are a line of products.

Amazon has a page on JB Weld that has a shitload of Q&A's and reviews. The two (equal) component mixes of both epoxy and polyester resins is for ease of use. Most of the "hardners" are MEK peroxide based.

A good source of MEK peroxide hardener are the small tubes of the "hardener" for regular Bondo.

All of this stuff needs through mixing and only mixing enough to do the job.

Lots of tricks to all this stuff but first RTFM.

 

I want it to run. That bottom was a little corroded and I needed it to fill in and clogging up all the spaces I opened up after I banged out the dents.

 

Some of these compounds can be thinned (reduced) with resin from one of the big box stores. Using heat is not a good idea.. No runs and a lot of errors..

Me sniffer says that a bunch of bike radiators might be from the same source.

 

How do mean "not as good" NormK?

 

Rob, it doesn't hold as well, it will break away and let go where the other stuff I have used hangs on a lot better. It may have a use, not sure on what though

 

Applying resins including over fiberglass cloth over most substrates is the SOS as painting. Scuff the substrate. This increases the surface area. Depth of application is another factor. The mixed amount is also a factor. The catalytic action is exothermic and the substrates may be subject to warping when subjected to heat.

 

i scuffed the shit out of it. then cleaned with brake parts cleaner. then scuffed with 120 grit so the J B would have something to bite on. opened up most of the pin holes i could see leaking parts cleaner... so could push the J B through. looks to be working... for now.

 

Good job! I hope it holds until a replacement shows up. What ya got there is a good fix but aluminum has a propensity for outgassing and again, as in paint, it will push the paint or coating off the substrate unless primed with a blocker type primer.