Melted wiring connector at 30amp fuse near battery

HI All,

Have an issue, bike had no electrics today when gong to help a mate. Investigated tonight and have found that under the seat near the battery, a Orange/red connector is melted. Investigating on the interwebs all also had a melted rectifier plug under the left fairing.

I don't have the melted rectifier plug, The voltage output running it fine (14.10V at 5k), the leakage is fine. 0.01A. However starting the bike only for a few minutes made the melted wiring very hot to touch. The wiring near the rectifier plug was also hot but not near how hot the melted wiring was.

I am concerned that repairing the connection is just going to cause more problems, or simular problems as the wiring is very hot after onyl 3 minutes of running the bike.

Any suggestions?

 

Here is a image of the melted connector, its pretty bad.

 

Hi - it sounds like your bike is the latest case of electrical gremlins.

Plenty of others have been there before. Sadly whilst the VFR engines may be bullet proof, the electrical stuff is all bought in and made to the minimum spec (will it last beyond the warranty) and tends to fail in warm weather. All four components of the electrical system (battery, RR, stator and loom) need to be in good order and a fault in any one may potentially cause damage to some or all of the others. Assuming you have checked the obvious - loose battery connections - then it looks like at least one component on your bike is in trouble so you need to go through "the drill" TWICE see post #9 on this thread.

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39277-How-to-fix-common-regulator-Stator-failures?

(NB the thread began on 5th Gens but 6th gens are exhibiting very similar problems, and the diagnostic process is the same).

Do the checks once with the bike cold and repeat straight after the bike has been out for a long 20min + ride by which time everything will be really hot. A charging system may can test OK when cold but fail once components get warm and insulation on things like windings in the stator starts to break down and suddenly instead of charging the battery the fault can quickly drain it.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.




SkiMad

PS you may want to update your forum profile (Forum Actions/Edit profile) to include the year and specs of your bike - so they appear automatically with all your posts and we don't have to guess or go searching through past posts to find out what bike you own...

 

Skid is there anyway the Drill can be brought to the VFR World front page, it seems to be a daily problem and shows no signs of slowing up, we seem to have 2 or 3 topics on charging problems going on every day. There must be some way of having it it here with flashing lights or something.
Chicken, most likely you problem was caused by the connector not being a tight fit, they weaken inside on the clips due to heat which then makes it get worse and then eventually they get hot enough to melt the connector. My personal fix would be to get rid of the connector and solder and heatshrink the wires but that is up to you. I don't know why these VFR's have these connector problems, was never a problem with the CB Supersports, never hear of a connector burning on them

 

you need to cut back the plug and get some good wires and solder/crimp/heat shrink female connectors on your harness, then simply plug the four of them into your starter relay. I would solder your three yellow wires from the stator to the harness too, eliminate the plug.

 

+ 1 for the above.
It's the connectors that cause all electrical problems on the VFR's.
Solder what you can, replace what can't be soldered, not that hard to do.

 

I bought a new wiring harness for my 91 bike, money and labour was no object though, labour was on me and I got the harness for $200. Can't tell another man how to spend his money. That particular bike is pretty amazing actually. So tight and well sorted after owning it for 2 decades it still blows my mind.

 

Thanks ! That may be the 400th posting of that particular plug's infamous mugshot.Those photos are our own Cabinet of Horrors !!



You've joined the Inner Brotherhood of VFR sufferers only after you've replaced two stators, two r/rs and two plugs according to verifiable data. :confusion:

 

Hi All,

Thanks for the responses, I had seen plenty of posts on the subject by goggling around. However all the ones I found initially either had a melted rectifier plug as well or had testing faults with the rectifier / stator. Since mine only had the melted plug, I posted.

Skimad found a post I didn't come across, which mentioned measuring after a 20 minute ride. That was helpful in confirming it seems to be only the connector, as NormK indicated. This has avoided me replacing the rectifier when not required. I didn't solder direct though, but did upgrade the wiring to 6mm from 4mm and used new connectors.

Since mine is a 2009/2010 model - the last of this gen, I would have expected honda to fix all these gremlins - as they were known about. Looks to me that honda just patched the problem instead by fixing the rectifier connector and moved the problem to under the seat right near the battery - not good in my opinion. Wish I could upgrade the connectors to better ones, but not really possible where the connector melted.

 

my original r/r on my 91 "Mach-1" lasted twenty years, the stator is on its second replacement. I replaced a bunch of r/r after the original and went with a CBR1000 unit with finning, its not hard wired into the bike though, stator connection is though. Bear in mind, this bike has an entire new wiring harness.

My 93 had a fuked r/r from out of the gate and I went with a http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm unit, seems to be doing its job as my battery is always charged. Main thing is to get a unit that starts with the inials FH thats a MOSFIT unit. Has to do with "cooking diodes" anyway, sometimes its too technical yah know. Cheers and happy motoring.

 

My 97 750 I had, last of the carb version VFR's never had all these issues.

 

Just lucky I would say

 

How many miles/kilometers did you have on the clocks?