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Meatloaf has Regulator/Rectifier issues

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Meatloaf, Jun 17, 2014.

  1. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    Well, your post is a bit confusing. When you say you get "get no resistance between the wires, no resistance to ground", does that mean when you connect the VOM to the stator wires you get "1" or do you get "0/infinity"? No resistance to ground would be a dead short.

    And do you "each" stator wire? Checked individually?

    And what is X.XX voltage? 12.5, 13.6, 15.8? And is that at idle or with the ignition off and just the battery voltage?

    How long has the R/R been on there? Is the newest type OEM or a different one? Nemind I reread the thread and see it's a new R/R, but is it the OEM "new and improved" model?

    I installed the new OEM R/R and the voltage doesn't climb like the book says it should. Mine starts around 13.4 V and climbs to about 13.9 V,
     


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  2. Meatloaf

    Meatloaf New Member

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    I have continuity between each stator wire checked individually and I have continuity between each stator wire to ground (the frame) checked individually.

    Stator is a new one from Wiremybike.com (Tightwad's site) It is made by Ricks Motorsport Electrics found here http://www.wiremybike.com/vfr-speci...arts-2002-2009-regulator-rectifier-p-325.html

    If I start the bike and idle voltage is say 12.1V, it will only climb to about 12.3V. If the battery is slightly more discharged at say 11.7V, it will not climb to more than 11.9V at 5000 RPM.
     


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  3. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    Well, if you got good output voltage from the stator wires like you said above, it sure looks like the new R/R bit the big one.

    And all the connections look good?
     


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  4. Meatloaf

    Meatloaf New Member

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    Yep... no burning or arcing going on. Battery can be charged and will hold it fine until I start the bike. I've taken 2+ hour trips with the bike the way it is and the only issue I have is the bike simply doesn't recharge enough to start the bike more than about 4 times.
     


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  5. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    I'm assuming you mean ---- you have zero continuity between A/B/C pins to frame on the stator check. -- You def have a problem at those voltages..
    -- Got to give credit where credit is due, dont like to dis Tightwad, he started the VFR charging fix it journey. BUT my observation it seems there are more frequent problems with Ricks gear than others. Yeah I know some have been successful on this. But for the moment, IMHO, the only reliable fix is, OEM stator + Shindengen FH020AA R/R wired direct to the battery. (Screw the VFRness bandaid)
     


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  6. Meatloaf

    Meatloaf New Member

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    Well I finally got around to replacing my stator. If there was any doubt where the issue started, there isn't anymore. It was toast. I bought an OEM one, cut the end off and soldered on ring terminals to the block from Tightwad. All is well again.

    stator.jpg
     


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  7. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    The melted plug probably killed the stator, cuz if any 2 yellow wires touch while engine is running, it burns the stator.
     


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  8. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    As Squirrel says stator was not the start of your problems, the stator was probably fine, but got fried because of the short in the connector. It is incredible how many of these VFR's are brought down by this connector problem. I wonder what the percentage failure rate has been, must be very high
     


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  9. Meatloaf

    Meatloaf New Member

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    I'd say there are enough for a recall but we'd all have to come together to get it done. Regardless, it won't be a problem for me again.
     


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