Chain & Sprocket Recommendations

Check these vids:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJJV5DHb95E&feature=youtube_gdata_player

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vc4tP8kmAX0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

So the replacement mufflers look stock and not opened up to flow more?

Have you ever had the carbs off for a good cleaning and inspection?

I'm not sure how a C-clamp figures into the equation.
Does your rivet link have the hollowed ends that your supposed to flare? You really need a rivet tool to apply a massive amount of force to it. An accurate caliper helps as well so you can make sure it's flared enough, but not too much. I think I flared mine 0.12mm-0.15mm. Also make sure you don't squeeze the side plates too close together. That can cause binding or even split the sealing ring.

 

Yes they appear stock and not tampered with.
No I have never had the carbs off, that's past my comfort zone to do on my only set of wheels.. I've run two bottles of seafoam thru her. I bought it this winter and have put 1400kms on so far. The guy I bought it from had just rode it accros the country (5000+ Kms) a couple months before.


The c-clamp (as a back yard method) will aid me in getting the link together. I don't really have any options here as I did not know the chain was a different link than what was on the old chain with a clip.
I can live without riding today but I need my bike rideable by morning and will have to use whatever ingenuity I can.

 

I hate to break it to you, but a C-clamp isn't gonna do squat to flare the rivet link.

If you have no means to get a rivet tool today, there might be way to do it if you have a helper. First you need to slip the end plate onto the rivet link with the seals in place and squeeze the plate on to the proper location. Use the links next to it for a guide. A pair of pliers or that C-clamp should be able to handle that.

Then you need a pair of large hammers 3lb-5lb and some type of center punch. You can use a bolt and grind down the end to a small diameter and with a 45* angle tip. One person holds the bigger of the 2 hammers behind the rivet your flaring (it will act as an anvil to help transfer the energy into the rivet) as well as the center punch (with a pair of pliers for safety) right in that hole on the rivet link. Then the other person swings the other hammer. A swift hit just right (or several) should flare the rivet enough.

It's old school, not precise, kinda dangerous and not the recommended method to flaring a rivet end, but it will work if you have no other choice.

 

Here's a picture of someone doing it without the center punch. My chain rivets were hardened steel and I don't think a ball peen hammer by itself would have flared the ends.





Also, try not to do this on the rear sprocket. One small miss and you could warp the sprocket. Not good.

 

It's done now, just got back from a quick rip down the Rd. The c-clamp was not to make the flare it was to get the link on so I could move on to making the flare which involved a wall and a board and some metal, a punch and hammer.

The bigger front sprocket feels great. And now I'm just waiting on my friend to return so we can go on a short test ride.

 

^ This. That's what I needed the c-clamp for.

 

Pics of my exhaust.

 

Cool.

Well it looks like your exhaust is fine. Your weak midrange is probably in the carb or the intake tract. Have you looked at your airbox lid and filter? Are there any holes drilled in the lid or snorkel removed? I've seen paper filters get old and flake apart making a hole and the lack of air resistance on a stock jetted carb can throw off the air/fuel ratio at certain rpm's. That can make a weak spot in the power.

If all that intake stuff looks good, you might can check the rubber boots for air leaks and that the pilot screws are adjusted properly. Syncing the carb linkage is also a good idea, but that mainly effects idle and low rpm power.

If all that's good, you might have an issue in the carbs. Dirt or blocked passage or float heights off, etc...

 

Great videos. But I don't buy into the notion that the outside plates stretch on this bikes. In theory maybe a miniscule amount but in practicality? Nah. Or did I misinterpret what he said that way?

 

I think you misunderstood. When he used the sponge, he was demonstrating a theory that a lot of people believe. Then he showed how the extra length was actually all due to wear in the pins.

As a side note, I've heard people that wheelie their bike a lot do get quicker chain length. That might be due to the sideplates stretching a bit or it might be accelerated pin wear, but you have to keep in mind that most chain companies pre-stretch their chains under massive amounts of tension to prevent stretching under normal use.

Now drag racing bikes might stretch side plates a little, but our VF and VFR bikes don't really fit in that category.

 

Air filter is a newer Fram and box looks good. (Although the filter does not seal as good as I think it should)

I have been leaning to a dirt in carb issue last few days, as it's been randomly stumbling on the highway.. I'll run another bottle of seafoam through it when I can afford it. And I really should get an inline filter installed.

Onto the sprocket subject, just got in from the ride. 500rpm drop in 5th gear @ 100kph and I'd have to say I'm very pleased with the over all "feel" of it now.

 

Well, were narrowing it down. It's important that the filter has a good seal. You might adress that issue in the future and see it has any effect.

The reality is you may be stuck as you are until you get familiar enough to pull the carbs and take a look at what your dealing with. It could be full of junk or mismatched jets or worn needles, etc... After 3 years of ownership I just realized by carbs had a jet kit installed. I never removed my needles from the slides so I didn't know they were grooved at the top. My main jets said 118 which is stock, but were Dynojet 118's which are richer than the factory Keihin 118 jets. After some experimenting and adjusting, I've got way more torque in the midrange now. I say this to prove the point that eventually you'll need to open the carbs and take a good look.

Did you ask your friend if he smelt any unburned gas from the exhaust when riding behind you? You might try that at normal cruise speeds to see if the bike is rich in that midrange area.

An experiment you can try is riding the bike on a short trip without the air filter and see how it responds. If it bogs and stumbles then put the filter back on.

You could also try adding a little restriction to the exhaust. It sounds counterintuitive, but a little extra back pressure can really wake up the mid rpm range.

Have you checked your plug color? You should get the bike warmed up and do some hard riding by your house, then pull back into your place without letting it idle and shut it off. Once cool, pull the rear plugs (front ones as well if possible) and see what color range they are in. Bright white or sooty black will tell you a lot. Verify the plugs are the right ones as well.

I'm out of ideas at the moment. Later.

 

Have you checked your idle mixture/pilot screws?
I recall experimenting with mine and when I turned them out only 1.5 times I got a weaker midrange throttle response. Recommended is 2.5 turns out.

 

I have not, but now that you mention it. I will!

I've figured most of the problem thou today. One of the solder joints in the 1-3 igniter box has come loose yet again (I've already been over all the joints in both boxes but perhaps I missed this one). I was able to get the stumble and the dip in power just wiggling the yellow wire around, heck I could even stall the bike right out which is something it's been doing at stop lights randomly as well.

So I'll add some new solder to that joint and that should fix it!

Time to order one of those new custom ignition systems I've been reading about I think!

 

The ignitor box could be the source of your bad running and not the carbs at all.

I had a similar problem with an old Virago I used to own. Definitely go over all the solder joints with a good clean iron. Maybe your current solder iron is a bit weak? The common 25w pencil irons are pretty marginal at best. Ever since I swapped over to an adjustable 50w unit I've had much better results.

The factory ignition boxes are good units so if you get it fixed there's really no need for a custom box.

 

I own several irons as I repair computers and minor electronics for a living...
It is one of the igniters causing the trouble and has been temp repaired while I await my newly made replacement to arrive. Some unseen corrosion had taken out two of the joints under the wires connection to the board.

 

What kind of new ignition box is it?

Does it let you adjust the
timng curve, etc...?

I've thought about modifying the factory timing sensors so I can physically move them forward a few degrees just to see if it would run well on 93 octane and produce a bit more power, but it's just an idea currently.

 

I called this guy (Tom) http://home.comcast.net/~tjhafner/V4-spark.htm and we talked a bit about my bike while brainstorming on which box might have been causing grief.

The unit he is sending will have two preset timing sets with selector switch and a selector switch for rev limit on/off.

Settings "can be" changed by end user via Installed USB port & a computer.

Cost with shipping was $87.00 CDN. (For one box)

 

That sounds pretty sweet. I'm used to my 2nd gen 180* crank engine having the single ign box and 4 coils, but I see the 1st gen 360* crank motors use 2 ign boxes and 2 coils. I hope that fixes your bike. Make it run like a champ. Pull some wheelies, etc...

Man, I wish that fella made boxes for the 2nd gen bikes. Mine has been fine so far, but you never know when you might need a replacement.