Carb Assembly Removal

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Can Cutter, Jan 27, 2015.

  1. Can Cutter

    Can Cutter New Member

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    I was planning on using Metal Rescue Rust Remover Bath from Workshop Hero. One step, soak the tank in the remover and when done it's ready to go.
     


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  2. Can Cutter

    Can Cutter New Member

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    So then you put the hose in the bottle and run it to the fuel pump?
     


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  3. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    No idea, never thought about running it through the pump, no reason why it wouldn't work, or hang the bottle from the roof and just gravity feed it into the hose to the carbs after the pump, this way you can do all your checking and adjusting, leaks, with it all fully visible in front of you. Once you are happy with everything and it is running properly, then put the tank on
     


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  4. Can Cutter

    Can Cutter New Member

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    Good idea, I'm going with it.
     


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  5. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    And i've had great results with the fuel tank sealer from www.caswellplating.com
     


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  6. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    Heart of Dixie Georgia Boys mighta been usin' dat
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  7. Can Cutter

    Can Cutter New Member

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    I tried bench syncing the carbs tonight and was highly unsuccessful. Just to open the #4 carb in order to get a drill bit in, I had to turn the idle adjuster all the way in. No adjustment left. That allowed me to adjust the #3 carb. I can't get carbs #1 or #2 open at all. I assume they're to be open to allow a drill bit to pass just like carbs 4 and 3. When trying to adjust the opening I bottom out on the adjustment screws. It's as if the basic throttle position is too closed, because there just isn't enough adjustment left to do anything. Help!
     


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  8. john750

    john750 New Member

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  9. Can Cutter

    Can Cutter New Member

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    the drill bit was very small. I couldn't even get a sewing needle through 1 and 3.
     


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  10. john750

    john750 New Member

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    I think by anyones estimation that's not a good thing. is the assembly nicely greased in all the right placed etc? I'm far from an expert but it may be worthwhile trying to source a second hand set to test against and/or use as a replacement.
     


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  11. Can Cutter

    Can Cutter New Member

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    I thought about that, but haven't looked yet.
     


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  12. john750

    john750 New Member

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    Shouldn't be hard or expensive I'd have thought. Worthwhile investment either way!
     


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  13. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    You need to RECALIBRATE !! Are you sure all synch springs are in place ?

    Back out the idle speed screw until the throttle plate on that carb just bottoms out in the bore; then screw in more until you see first hole below plate; then set synch screws on other carbs so throttle plates look the same. After that, going in and out on the idle screw a few times can help zero in better.

    :joker:

    This method is close enough to start any bike and have it run well enough to ride.

    If you need to reset idle speed screw, back it out till it lightens up (no longer holding the throttle plate open), then count one or two turns in, and that should be OK until later adjusting.
     


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  14. Can Cutter

    Can Cutter New Member

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    I don't think all the springs are in place. At least one missing. If it's missing I don't think it was there when I disassembled the carbs because I never saw it. Going to have Mike NIxon of V4HondaCarbs.com take a look at it.
     


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  15. THRASHED

    THRASHED New Member

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    What is FSM (field service manual?) and where would I find one?
     


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  16. robles

    robles New Member

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    Because in the past mentioned, they are only on the website excellent will be just about all. Had taken everyone the higher component of a new hard six pack to remove the ass'y initially. Getting these last is quite a bit, much more painful!
    [​IMG]
     


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  17. Can Cutter

    Can Cutter New Member

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    Ready to re-install. We'll see how this goes!
     


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  18. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Best carb bench synch lines up the first progression hole under the leading edge of all throttle plates. Drill bit method is seriously USELESS despite what you might have read !!
     


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  19. THRASHED

    THRASHED New Member

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    I set mine up using this method. The bike seems like it's running good, though probably a bit rich at idle. Even though I have access to a mercury vacuum tuner, I've decided to let the pros do the fine tuning.
     


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  20. Can Cutter

    Can Cutter New Member

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    A late note, but better late than never. Carbs are in and work beyond my expectations. Now for the starter switch that started to smoke the last time I tried it.
     


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    #40
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