No bolts, so how do I unbolt .....

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by bagpipes, Jan 31, 2015.

  1. bagpipes

    bagpipes New Member

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    Newby here. (I did a search for related threads but to no avail)

    I need to remove the seat lock from a 1991 that is bolted behind the rear foot peg bracket. I've managed to expose the lock at the rear but there are no visible bolts (probably for obvious reasons)

    Any idea how I go about removing this or do I need to drill it. I figured I'd ask before I start drilling and regret it.

    Thanks for reading.

    IMG_20150131_160503.jpg
     


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  2. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    With a nice fresh set of vice grips, you can usually get on the edge of what's left of the break off bolt and get it to loosen.
     


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  3. bagpipes

    bagpipes New Member

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    At the risk of sounding stupid, are the bolts in the pic broken off then? I thought that may have happened but they appear to be too smooth.
     


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  4. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    What does it look like on the back side? -- -If it is a rivet, I might try grinding the head off and punch it through... -- Looks like a tough drill it job....
     


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  5. bagpipes

    bagpipes New Member

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    Only thing visible .from the front side is the key hole. That's the back side after I pulled the foot peg bracket off.
     


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  6. Allyance

    Allyance Member

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    Those look like clips that were pressed on, should be able to get thin screw driver between clip and lock an work it off, leaving the two posts intact.
     


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  7. zoom-zoom

    zoom-zoom Member

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    When I polished the foot peg brackets on my wife's 96 VFR and my old 97 VFR I struggled to get those bolts off as well. It was suggested to me that I use a dremmel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the back of both bolts and you can then use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the bolts. Both my 4th gens those were threaded screws with some sort of tamper proof head on them. Once I finished polishing the brackets and put the helmet/seat lock back together I got a couple of Phillips head stainless screws that fit the threads and once tight I used a drill to round out the Phillips head on the screws to make them tamper proof once again. Worked perfectly and should you ever need to remove them again, you can do the same thing.
     


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  8. Rollin_Again

    Rollin_Again Member

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    I believe those bolts are designed in such a way that the head breaks off when they are tightened to a specific tension during the initial installation. This is done as a security measure so that once installed they can't be easily removed. You'll have to either drill them out or use an extracting bit to remove them.
     


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  9. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Just look for the cable that attaches to the lock and PULL. Shouldn't be necessary to split the lock to access cable end above. :worked_till_5am:
     


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  10. bagpipes

    bagpipes New Member

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    I need to remove it. The lock is punched and I have a new one to replace it so it has to come off.

    Thanks for all the suggestions. The top of the bolts are smooth but not flat so if the consensus is that they are threaded, I'll go the dremel route and cut a slot into them. I don't really care if I wreck it, I just don't want to damage the screw holes for when I put the new one on.

    Cheers, you've all been great.
     


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  11. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    [​IMG]

    Or

    [​IMG]
     


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  12. DaHose

    DaHose New Member

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    I agree. Those look like shear bolts. You have to drill out the bolt heads and remove the remaining Bilt with some vice grips.

    Jose
     


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  13. OZ VFR

    OZ VFR Member

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    I have to say Tink, it looks like you have a very complete tool kit.
     


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  14. bagpipes

    bagpipes New Member

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    Nice hammer
     


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  15. bagpipes

    bagpipes New Member

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    Dremel did the job - no hammer required.

    Thanks for the suggestions and I'm glad I didn't start cutting or drilling. Drilling / e-z-out may have worked but the dremel was literally a 5 minute job including attaching the cut off wheel.

    You guys are a great help - enjoy the Superbowl and have a cold one on me.:drinkers:

    1.jpg
     


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  16. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Dude, what the hell?

    Just because a hammer isn't required doesn't mean it isn't still the right tool!

    Especially in reassembly
     


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  17. karazy

    karazy New Member

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    I'm confused. Are those hammers, or torque wrenches? ARGH...
     


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