Airtech full tail for VFR750

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Redbeast840, Jul 2, 2014.

  1. Redbeast840

    Redbeast840 New Member

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    Here are a couple onboard videos from last weekend.

    Vintage Challenge

    [video]https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=G-QLkfJ2vf4[/video]

    P4F1 Final

    [video=youtube;fPk165pR6tA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPk165pR6tA[/video]
     
  2. JIMLARCH

    JIMLARCH New Member

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    I saw your bike at Mosport. Your photos didn't do it justice. In person it is a superb looking machine. I don't know who painted it, but a superb job.
     
  3. JIMLARCH

    JIMLARCH New Member

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    Watched the P4F1. Nice ride. Anyone that can keep up with Tim Ruhl on his 1100 Katana has my respect.
     
  4. Redbeast840

    Redbeast840 New Member

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    Thanks! I spent the WHOLE weekend before this race painting it...it didn't turn out as well as I wanted. That low VOC paint is a pain to work with....I picked a heck of a time to learn a new paint system. The stripes are all painted as well. I bought a decal kit(good deal on eBay...yeah right) but most of it wasn't to scale.
     
  5. Joep

    Joep New Member

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    Nice bike and nice to see that is being used in a proper way :courage:
     
  6. jorgescar69

    jorgescar69 New Member

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    Looked like a great ride
     
  7. JasonWW

    JasonWW New Member

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    Tim, your the first person on this forum I've seen with an 86-89 VFR with a modified shifter. No one makes these as far as I can tell.

    Can you give me the details on what shifter parts you used and how you did it? Thanks a lot.

    Oh yeah, how easy is the new rear tail to remove for maintenance, etc...?
     
  8. Redbeast840

    Redbeast840 New Member

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    Jason,

    The shifter parts are from the CBR F2 parts bike. I'll take some close up pics tomorrow and write up a quick how-to. I've gotten used to GP(reverse) shift on the track, so this setup gives me that. Still using OEM rear sets, so can always swap the original shift lever if needed( which I did for the 2hr endurance race as the other two riders weren't comfortable with GP shift).

    Rear tail is easy to remove, but I plan on making it easier still. At the moment, it's just a matter of turning the two 1/4 turn fasteners at the front and unlatching the seat...the whole thing slides off as an assembly.

    More tomorrow.

    Tim


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  9. Redbeast840

    Redbeast840 New Member

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    Here are some close ups of the shifter.

    IMG_0432.jpg

    IMG_0434.jpg

    The shifter is from a 1992 CBR600F2.
    The adjustable shaft had to be lengthened to about 9 inches centre to centre.
    I traced the OEM VFR rear set on a piece of 6mm thick aluminum, and added the "bump" on the bottom where the shifter bolts, and cut it out.
    I drilled the 2 holes where the rear set mounts to locate the plate on the rear set. Then I drilled 3 (5 or 6mm?) holes above the shifter bolt and tapped the rear set. Lastly, I drilled and tapped the "bump" for the shifter bolt. I kept the same spacing from footpeg to shifter knob as the original shifter.
    I used blue thread locker on all fasteners, as well as a Nylock nut for the back of the shifter bolt.

    Hope this helps,

    TimV
     
  10. JasonWW

    JasonWW New Member

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    Yeah, that helps a lot. Now I know that the F2 parts match the splined shaft on the vfr. That was my big worry as I don't have local places to try to see what fits, etc... Do you know if the F3 or F4 bikes use the same sized splined shaft?

    Now I see, the bolt is special. The shifter arm uses the bolt as a bushing and the grease is held in by rubber seals on each side.

    Dang, there are none in good condition. I may have to buy a later model aftermarket chromed shifter arm from a different bike along with it's mounting bolt.

    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2014
  11. Redbeast840

    Redbeast840 New Member

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  12. JasonWW

    JasonWW New Member

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    Are those ball and socket pieces able to seperate or are they stuck together good?

    I found a new chrome shifter arm that will work, except it has a reverse thread for the rod.

    I believe the CBR600F2 has the standard thread on the shifter arm and reverse thread on the engine side.
     
  13. keny

    keny New Member

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    Looks great. You hapen to have any pics showing it from the rear?
     
  14. Redbeast840

    Redbeast840 New Member

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    How's this?

    tail2.jpg

    tail1.jpg
     
  15. keny

    keny New Member

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    Thanks! It looks good.

    You hapen to have a rear side wiew pic whit complet bike showing?
     
  16. Redbeast840

    Redbeast840 New Member

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    Here's how it sits now. There's another photo earlier in this thread before paint. I can't get much further behind it than the previous rear end pics.

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  17. JasonWW

    JasonWW New Member

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    Hey Tim, I just recieved my F2 shifter assemby from ebay ($18 total and in good condition :eagerness:), but there is no way the shift rod is going to clear the frame when it's installed in the standard shift pattern. Were you saying you could "flip it if you needed to run the standard pattern" in theory or have you actually tried it?

    The best fix seems to be replacing the engine side ball and socket joint with a spherical bearing with a long bolt and 21mm-22mm spacer. It's going to put a higher side load on the splined shaft, but the needlebearing that supports it looks pretty beefy. I don't think it would cause any binding in the linkage.

    Here's some pics.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Redbeast840

    Redbeast840 New Member

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    I had mentioned that because I kept the oem rear set(peg in same position) that I can go back to the oem shift lever if needed.

    Are you changing the foot peg position?

    Looks like you'll have cut and add on the engine side shifter so it sticks out while at the same time keeping the length/throw.

    You may also be able to make the shaft into a "z" to get around the frame, but it too will most likely have to longer if you do that. Bending may be an issue though.

    Does that give you some ideas?



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  19. JasonWW

    JasonWW New Member

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    Okay, now I understand what you mean. You can have the standard pattern if you use the stock shift arm or a reverse pattern if you use the F2 shifter linkage (and no side stand).

    I wanted to run a multipiece linkage shifter so I could fine tune the shifter location. It's never been right for me, even after raising the left peg slightly and cutting/rewelding the stock arm.
    No, although in the future I'd like to move the pegs forward and downward, like the 88-89 VFR750P police bikes.
    Yes, it needs to be approximately 21mm further out to clear the frame.
    That could be easily done, but then you'd loose the fine adjustment ability which is the whole point of this mod for me.

    The best solution I see is to replace the engine side rod end for something like this.

    [​IMG]


    Then I can swap the foot side shifter arm for a new, modern, polished aluminum shifter arm. I'm doing research right now to find for the best option. Hayabusa and ZX12 shifters are top of the list so far.
     
  20. JasonWW

    JasonWW New Member

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