I have an 87 vfr When I got it it was not running. After about 20 hours of cleaning out the carbs and a whole list of other work I have got it to idle. Here's the problem when I open the throttle up it dies Like around 2k revs, it just give out. I tried messing with air/fuel mixture screws. anyone got any advice on the screws or anything else it might be. Also I have a 91 VFR and I put a new battery in it and literally nothing happens no lights nothing any ideas? any wiring harness diagrams anyone's got?
Did you make sure the pilot jets are 100% clean does it run better with the choke on? With the 91 main fuse? just for starters, then one step at a time
Yes jet's are 100% clean I soaked them for two days to really get them good. The choke didn't help really when I turned it on. On the 91' thanks I just have no Idea with all that electrical crap haha
But did you clean every hole in the pilot jets, just soaking in carb cleaner may not be enough. With the 91 you need a test light and a multimeter before you can start asking questions, we need to know where power is before we can help
agree with Normk, make sure every orifice is clean. you might consider using one of those wire carb tools, although some say NEVER use one of those. And make sure you set your float levels as well while you have the carbs apart. then if you have a fuel filter make sure it's not clogged or dirty. I'd start there. and if it'll idle, let it heat up a bit and play with the throttle. sometimes that helps with the cold start stalling. try to get an idea if there is atleast some better response to throttle input after that.
seriously we're talking 100% clean carbs. I soaked and sprayed them I disassembled the whole thing and could see through every hole they're 100% clean I'm just wondering if there's anything else before I buy new carbs.
I have a multimeter My battery reads 12.56 and I there's power going to the starter that's all I checked thus far being that I have not Idea where else the electrical goes or how to test it. Would it be possible to test the fuses by inserting the meter into the slots?
Buying new carbs is not the answer, have to fix the ones you have, have to find out why they are not working, are you using a fuel bottle, if not it is too hard to see what is going on, fuel pump working ok? there is a multitude of things you have to work through, just have to be methodical and thorough. I clean the pilot jets with a strand of wire from a wire brush and be very gentle with them. Screw the mixture screws fully in and back out 2 turns and that will be good enough to see if you can get it running. What are the carb rubbers like they need to seal perfectly otherwise you will have problems
You say you have power going to the starter, you shouldn't have power to the starter unless you have the ignition on and you are pushing the start button, are you talking about power to the starter solonoid?. Set the meter to ohms and test across the fuse to see if fuse is ok. testing across the fuse holder won't tell you anything. There should be a main fuse at or near the solonoid I think and that will need checking or is this the fuse you are talking about. If that is ok you are going to have to pull the fairing off so you can get in behind the instrument panel and start testing in around the switch and find where you have power and go from there. If it was easy you wouldn't ask
I will post some pictures tomorrow of carbs. I honestly think I need new ones. One carb body is cracked on the end where it connects to the carb opposite of it. Nothing that would seriously effect the carbs performance wise. When I screw the base of the air filter in it lines everything up I just think that it'd be better to buy new carbs As I said I'll post a picture though thanks for all your guys' quick responses and advice I'm new to REALLY getting into the guts of the bike so I need a decent amount of help as you can see haha
Have you synced the carbs or had them synced? If not, then I'd do that next before I wasted money on new ones.
how does one sync carbs I've made sure the butterfly valves are all at the same distance. Right there the part of the carb the screw slides threw is broken off basically the place where the screw went now isn't a full circle it's more like a C.
You need a sync gauge to do a proper synchronization, ya can't just eyeball it and get it correct. If the break in the pic doesn't go into the carb body, which it doesn't look like it does, I would say it's OK.
Well I can tell you from experience that simply soaking and blowing out the jets doesn't always get the job done. The ability to see through them means nothing really. They are a calibrated orifice that has to be the proper dimension and even half a thousanth of an inch will throw it off. I'm confident that you are fuel limited meaning that there is a flow restriction of some sort in there. You have two options, A mechanically clean the inside of the jets to ensure that the openings are back to full size or B buy a new set of jets. Believe me, you can't see this restriction but its there. The mains aren't usually the issue as they are big and a thin layer of varnish on them is somewhat tolerable. The pilot jets are tiny and a microscopic layer fuck everything up. So if you want to mechanically clean the pilots, take them out and then get a 14 gauge stranded copper wire. Remove a single strand from the wire about twelve inches long. Now poke it through the pilot jet and slide the jet down the wire. I clamp one end in a vice so I can slide the jet with one hand while I keep tension on the wire with the other. At first the jet won't slide great but as you work it back and forth it will get easier because its removing the varnish inside. If the varnish is really bad, you may see it transfer to the copper wire. I find that after this treatment you will get a solid idle with an easy start and good throttle response, provided the jets were the correct ones to begin with and there aren't any other issues with the carbs. Good luck! Check this out, These carbs are off a Honda Valkerie that a friend brought to me because the dealer couldn't get it to run properly. It started ok but was hesitant off idle and then came to life after a quarter throttle. It had all the symptoms of a lean idle condition but just look at how pristine these carbs were, The thing was a garage queen with literally no miles on it. But damn it was a handful at low speed because it would hesitate and scare the shit out of you when you expected it to go and then it didn't. I had it apart several times and nothing worked. Cleaning, ultrasonic, blowing etc. No joy but I was confident that it was lean. Then I did the copper wire trick and bazinga she ran perfect.
SO good news I got the 91 Running!! literally all the fuses were blown I bet someone tried to jump start it with a car at some point. As far as the carbs go on the 87' I haven't touched them because I've been to busy timing my 0-60 on the 91' (true story 4.5 seconds by the way). Got the wire for cleaning and borrowed a friends carburetor gauge. Thanks for your guy's help on both of the bikes thus far!
Awesome news on the 91! That is a great bike in every way that counts. So, with respect to the carbs I would like to add one more thought. When you have finished cleaning the jets again and you prepare to install and balance the carbs you will notice that there isn't much space down there to access the adjustment screws. I don't know about you but my hands don't fit between the cylinder banks and under the carbs. So here is the tool of choice for such duties http://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/mot...-degree.html?gclid=CI3I0rukkMECFW4V7AodB0YAAw Yep it's expensive but it will be a bitch to do the job without this puppy. If you were close I would be happy to lend you the tool and the balancer gauges but somehow I fear that you aren't. One last parting thought...balancing the carbs is a bit tricky if you haven't done it before. Is there someone with experience that can support you? I say this because there have been a number of posts over the last year where members struggled to obtain good results.
