Working on a 1985 VF700F Honda Interceptor that would not even attempt to fire with gas or stater fluid, the plugs have spark, checked timing and #1&3 cyl ok but #2&4 cyl were way off and had been timed using the T1&3 mark. I don't trust anything in reference to #2&4 so for a sanity check I need some advice. (1) with the firing order of 1,4,3,2. Does the following sound correct for the reassembly of #2&4 cyl cam shafts and (2)what is the best valve clearance using Dave Dodge's procedure? With the alternator set to T1&3 timing mark: #1 cyl cam lobes are: Intake @12 o'clock and Exhaust is @11 o'clock (from the bike left) & the camshaft R-1 & R-2 stampings are @ 12 o'clock. With the alternator rotated 90 deg. ccw to T2&4 timing mark: #4 cyl cam lobes should be: Intake @10 o'clock and Exhaust is @2 o'clock (from the bike left) & the camshaft INFR2/IF & EXFR2/EF stampings are @ 12 o'clock. With the alternator rotated 270 deg. ccw to T1&3 timing mark: #3 cyl cam lobes are: Intake @12 o'clock and Exhaust is @11 o'clock (from the bike left) & the camshaft INRR2/IF & EXRR2/EF stampings are @ 12 o'clock. With the alternator rotated 90 deg. ccw to T2&4 timing mark: #2 cyl cam lobes should be: Intake @10 o'clock and Exhaust is @2 o'clock (from the bike left) & the camshaft R-1 & R-2 stampings are @ 12 o'clock. Using excerpts from Dave Dodge's Magna/Sabre valve adjustment procedure (in the above order): He uses a .003”/0.076mm feeler between the cam lobe and rocker arm pad resulting in .005”/0.127mm at the valve which is looser than the .004”/0.10mm factory spec. Is this ok or would .004”/0.10mm between the cam lobe and rocker arm pad be better for this machine than it's .0047”/0.12mm (at the valve) spec.?
First off forget the DD method of adjusting valves. That's only a quick check for racing and doesn't mean both rocker pads are set properly. Easiest way to set cams: 1. set timing mark 1/3 on alternator to case line 2. set all cams with markings either up(12 o'clock) or down (6 o'clock) 3. put chain & sprockets on with ALL horizontal lines parallel to the head valve cover surface 4. have a beer, your done Adjust valves using two feeler gauges, one under each rocker pad. Set them at .005"-.006" I set them at a medium drag .005" If the line are not perfectly parallel don't worry about it. It won't hurt performance on a street bike. They should be real close though. You may have to put the last cam in about a tooth off when on the chain. It should straighten out once the sprocket is bolted on and the cam chain is tensioned. works easier if you take the tension off the cam chain adjuster by putting a pin in the lock hole in the arm.
Much tks. for the input, but now I'm confused (not the first or last time) you say to use the T1&3 alternator mark to set the # 2&4 cyl cams, what is purpose of the T2&4 alternator mark??
