03 vfr non abs electrical super stump.

Recheck the engine start/stop switch. It provides power to ignition switch. I know when ignition is on and then you turn on red engine switch, I hear fuel pump. I have seen over threads where this has been the problem. Switch contacts get dirty or stick, not hard to split switch casing and clean with contact spray.

 

Checked and cleaned and the switch but no luck. I checked it at the switch and the connector and it is supplying the 12 volt voltage. I have voltage to the fuel cut relay and the main/ front connector on the left side as well. So now I'm super uber stumped.

 

Strange, check switch on kick stand. That is a kill switch too, bike won't start or die if kickstand is down. Maybe loose and not closing properly.

 

Checked that too. It's working properly. Can't remember but I think when it was down the voltage shut off when up the circuit completed and voltage.

 

Ordered a service manual today so in a week it'll be here. I've also come to the conclusion that those little gremlins are going to give me that huge dreaded "oh duh" slap when I get it. But we'll see

 

Try tracing red wire from fuse A, goes to ignition switch and starter relay. Check fuse A, too.

 

Is that directly off the fuse box? And where is fuse A?

 

Ignore my scribbling

Fuse A 10 amp, feeds red wire

 

Just checked it fuse A has 12v and a good fuse

 

And I have full continuity through out the wire. Took some of the old harness apart to trace those and see but still no idea. I checked with just a test light at the Cdi box and power going in. When I touch the brown wire with black stripe there I get fuel pump. But

 

I feel your frustration. First get yourself a meter, not a test light that will provide a path to ground.

I took a close look at the wiring diagram and traced the main 12 vdc feeds and path and put into English, hope this helps:

+12 vdc Path


Red/Yellow: Battery to 30A Main Fuse


Red/White: a) 30A Main Fuse to Multi-Pin Connector
b) Junction with +12 vdc output from R/R


Blue Purple: Multi-Pin Connector to Engine Stop Relay (Pin 1 Normally Closed)


Black/White: Engine Stop Relay (Pin 2 Normally Closed) to Fuel Cut Relay Coil
Engine Stop Relay to Fuel Cut Relay (Pin 1 Normally Closed)


Brown: Fuel Cut Relay (Pin 2 Normal Closed) to Fuel Pump


Black/White: Additional Connections:
a. 4 Ignition Coils
b. 4 Injectors
c. IDC Solenoid
d. Purge Control Solenoid
e. Exhaust Air Inject Solenoid
f. O2 Sensors 1-2
g. O2 Sensors 3-4
h. ECM


Note: Engine Stop & Fuel Cut Relays are "Normally Closed" contacts (connected).

Use a meter (Radio Shack has reasonable ones) to verify voltages.

 

When you touch the test light to the brown w/ black tracer you complete the negative side of the circuit at B18 which the computer usually does. This verifies that the two 30 amp fuses, ignition switch, stop switch, engine stop relay, bank angle, fuel cut relay, fuel pump appearently are working. The question is why isn't the computer completing the circuit. Do you have continuity between B26, B1, green wire on service connector TO the negative battery post? If the bike is in neutral then it bypasses the side stand and clutch switches. Is the computer new? Just thinking with everything else getting fried maybe the computer did to. Check all your grounds. Good luck!

 

I have to clarify: yes I did use a test light and I do have a blue point multimeter. This is how I figured continuity. Sorry I should have stated that earlier. Now with all the information you guys have givin me I do wonder if the ECM is fried. No it's not a new one. I will have a busy next day or two testing through what you guys are telling me. The brown wire going into the ECM has 12v. Thank you all.

 

UPDATE!!!!! The beast is back on the street. Alright listen up here's what was finally figured out and this is directly from the Honda race team themselves. After pouring $1200 into all new wiring along with a lot of parts. I finally took it to a dealership that a couple of my buddies own. Now nothing is free so. They took four months and a lot of talk between the Honda rep and them. Honda made them replace the wiring harnesses even though it had all new harnesses on it. Safety recall Honda said didn't happen even though they did it for me. Still nothing. So one of the techs another buddy I use to work with who was part of Honda race team a few years back. He contacted the race team and had one of them come up and look at it. Long story short and a few hours later we learned that there is a diode in the key switch that had gone bad. Now there is no way that test it. What the race teams do when the remove the ignition is replace the switch housing with a toggle switch so the race bikes will run without keys. The bottom half of the key switch that houses the diode is.....$40.00. Since this is not in any technical manual or service manual Honda picked up the tab on all the parts. I picked up a $294.00 bill for the labor that my buddies put into it. Now I'm back on the road inching closer to 30,000 miles on it.

 

That is incredible, you are right, I checked my 2014 schematic and their is no indication of any diode in the ignition switch. Shame on Honda for not showing that, a simple addition of a symbol of a diode inside the ignition switch would have saved everybody, including Honda, alot of time and money.