03 vfr non abs electrical super stump.

So here's the quick version of the story. Stator wires fried so I had them replaced. Main gray connector on left side burnt up and the starter relay also at same time. Solution order a used main harness. Replaced it. No blinkers horn or brake lights. Ordered and replaced relay. Still nothing. THIS IS WHERE IT GETS INTERESTING----- I ordered brand new front harness, main, and sub harness. $600 later I installed them and keep in mind I am a certified honda mechanic. Everything went in smooth no tugging or pulling on wires during instillation. Everything is hooked up and then I turn the key and hit the run switch and and and no power to the fuel pump. Since I don't work in a dealership or a shop anymore the harness is not covered. Anyway does anyone have any ideas. Before you say the fuel pump---- nope it ran fine right before all these new harnesses.

 

There is a +12vdc feed wire to the Engine Stop/Start switch, which in turn feeds ignition from the output of the R/R. Are you using OEM R/R?

 

Yes. It is the OEM R/R

 

I did have the stator replaced last October however after reading a lot about the issues with the connector I did solder the connector but it ran fine until I changed the harnesses. As soon as I did it solves the blinker issues but now no fuel pump.

 

Then that feed should be hot. Output of R/R has 2 +12vdc and 2 -12vdc (grounds) to battery the 5th wire is the feed to the ignition. Do you have a wiring diagram? I have the PDF if you need it.

 

Are you using a VFRness? I ask because I had a similar thing happen. I had my R/R go out and some electrical gremlins. In the midst of troubleshooting I hooked up the plugs on the right side of the bike wrong. So I plugged the wrong male/female connectors together (yes you can do this), and luckily it didn't hurt anything, but it behaved similar to what your saying.

I assume you already took a voltmeter to the frame to ensure it has no voltage (no short to ground)?

 

No I don't but I did use a test light and when the switch is turned on power comes on and vice versa. I just went out and sniped the old connector for the harness and tied on some be wire to it. Jumped directly from the battery to the fuel pump and it's running strong.

 

Send me a Private Message with your email address and I will send you 2002 manual with wiring diagram.

 

Thank you and no I haven't checked the frame. It's been a long day so some things slipped through the cracks. Thank you for sending that. I'll hit it again tomorrow and keep ya posted.

 

Signing off now, good luck. Did you check that 30 amp fuse in the starter relay assembly?

 

Yea it try's to start but no fuel pump

 

I'd "step away" from it for a bit to let your head clear. Then I'd start over by triple-checking the simple "how did I miss that?" stuff (done this way too many times myself). These simple things would include the eng. and sidestand "kill" switches and the ignition system itself. Then I'd carefully follow the troubleshooting steps listed in the service manual (thanks to Allyance).

Hang in there JD, you'll get that thing sorted!

 

I'll have to order the service manual.

 

Ok so update one: I checked the power to the fuel cut off relay this morning with a test light. Funny thing happened. Since the test light is grounded when I touch the brown wire and turn the kill switch on the fuel pump kicks on. It still will not start though which makes me think in have grounding issue. Also I did check the frame and there is no power running through it. You say it I'll check it.

 

FM your right I need to step away. This morning amongst my new deep thought moment I started looking around the gayrog and notice a box sitting there on a shelf. Opened it and low and behold I see two forgotten harnesses that I ordered last year but hadn't installed due to freezing winter. The sub harness and the battery harness. So I'm going to start tearing into it again on Sunday. By the time I'm done I'll have a completely new electrical system. New main, front, sub, battery, starter relay, turn signal relay, and stator/ r/r (within a year) so hopefully this will cure problems

 

see if one goes to your bank angle sensor, white blue has to be 12 volts, that 12 v then goes throught the engine stop relay, then the fuel cut off relay and out to power fuel pump

 

I'll check the as soon as I get home. My voltmeter is right there so it should only take a minute. If that is the case I'll be so happy. Thanks for the info. Rj

 

All you guys rock this forum

 

Checked the bank angle sensor and 12 volts is running to and through it.

 

So I've checked all connectors and still no fuel pump. Pulled the plugs and replaced them. I discovered no spark. So here's my question: could I have a bad pulse generator?