HELP!!! Just stalled and won't start

Got a '97 VFR750 and looking for some help/advice. Bike was sitting at a light idling and just stalled out. Won't turn over and just get clicking noise. I've been reading about the r/r, stator, VFRNess and thinking this might be the issue. Not sure though. Checked for burnt wires, battery connections, loose wires etc. and everything looks ok. Haven't had time to get multimeter out as I'm just trying to get the bike back to the house at this point. Any help is much appreciated.


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sounds like your battery is too low to crank, follow the drill and get us some numbers

 

Load test your battery and follow post #9
http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthre...mmon-regulator-Stator-failures?highlight=Rubo

 

Agreed that's what happened on my 86 VFR riding along then bbbbbbbbbbrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr NOTHING
called a tow truck got her home hooked up a charger an VROOMM
replaced the R/R problem solved

 

Thanks guys for the quick replies. Will check it out when I get it back to the garage. 2 hours away from home taking advantage of great weather for a ride. This SUCKS!!!!


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Just getting around to taking the bike apart to look into the issue and here's what I've found thus far....

1. Did the drill to the point of checking the connections. All connections and wiring intact and good condition. Photos...


2. Ohmed out the connector and readings are all below 1 ohm and no continuity.

3. Battery has not been charged since the incident and reads 9.3 V...obviously an issue.

I need to replace or charge battery but not sure if I have the R/R issue. Been reading thru all the posts and seems a mixed bag on which R/R to go with. Sounds like issues with some of them.

Any updates on which R/R to go with?

Also, next steps? Bad battery?

I will be buying an upgraded R/R but want to buy the needed connector kits also...prefer not to heatshrink or solder if I don't have to.

 

Also, just tried starting the bike with a jumps start. Cranks and runs until the jumper cable is removed and then all lights dim and bike won't rev....seems like it's choking.

 

I'd atleast start with a simple charge of the battery and see it holds the charge. If it's more than a few years old, not left on a maintainer, or you don't know the actual status of the battery, probably needs replacing. I've added a LED voltimeter to all of my bikes to atleast see if the charging system is working. Won't necessarily tell you if your battery is good or not but atleast I know it's charging while I'm riding.

 

Thanks Reek. I plan to replace the battery since it's over 3 years and don't know it's condition.

Another question though...if I replace the R/R with the roadstercycle unit it only has the 3 connections and the battery connections. Where then will the 2 connections go from the current connector which are the red/white-starter relay & the green-tail light?

 

Slow down and do things slowly one step at a time, battery with 9 volts is junk, solder and heatshrink is the best connector, fix the battery then get it running and then check the charging

 

agree with NormK

 

Bought a new battery today and ran all the tests as in rubo's post #9. All checks fall within said ranges. One note: R/R is piping hot within 30 seconds of starting the bike.

1. No burnt connectors
2. New battery @ 12.7V
3. Idle volts @ 13.5V
4. 5K RPM volts @ 14.2V
5. All connectors @ stator-side connector less than 1 ohm
6. All stator-side pin to ground are good
7. Engine running stator check ~19VAC @ idle & above 50VAC @ 5K RPM

Could it be that I just had a bad battery? No doubt I plan to replace the R/R and wiring now just to be safe.

Question still...the photo of the wire schematic in the manual shows the red/white running to the starter relay and then to the battery and the dark green running to the tail light and eventually to ground. If I replace the R/R with the roadstercycle unit it only has the 3 connections and the battery connections. Where then will the 2 connections go from the OEM connector? Or do I just tape off the old connector?

 

Could well have just been your battery, use the bike for a few days and see how it goes. Was is a so-called sealed battery? I had one that did the same thing as yours, turned out it was dry. Filled it up and used it in my 250 for another 2 years. As others have said, a voltmeter is a good idea as it gives you a status on the charging system constantly. Replacing the R/R isn't a bad idea though, you would always have your old one as a spare (assuming it's still good). Ps, yes the R/R does get really hot, mine has a pc fan on it. Can't say weather it helps or not. Another cheap fix is to run a thick earth wire onto the frame.