starter issue

well rebuilt the starter cause one of the brushes was worn down to almost nothing and replaced the starter clutch housing since it cracked in two spots rode it monday and it started perfectly all day went to start it tuesday and just clicked came home for lunch and swapped batteries for my brand new one and it started rode it to work end of the day just clicked tried jumping it just clicked i ordered a starter relay since thats the only part that hasnt been replaced or repaired on the starting system

 

What was the voltage at the battery terminals? Wondering if you have a parasidic drain on that bike. Spray some contact OL cleaner in the run switch and rock it. Keep us posted.

 

tried it tonight it fired right up 2 times in a row no hesitiation and i havent touched the battery at all. i pulled out the starter relay to take a look at it, it was quite green and the four wire connector was missing and previous owner spliced the wiring and the red/white wire which was broken the others looked ok waiting for the relay to show up

 

You need to put spade connectors on those four wires and use shrink tubing and get them in the correct sequence obviously. You may have to add some wire, if its too short to reach the starter relay. Those lugs that were green where part of your problem, but the connections are the heat source and could end up biting you in the arse down the road.

Check your connections to your regulator too, plug could be nasty. I would eliminate the plug and direct solder the three yellow, red and black to the wiring loom from the regulator. I would also hard wire the three yellow wires from the stator to the loom. Thats just me, and your results may vary. May be nice to check out the health of the stator before you do the hard wire job. R/R is easy enough to check at the battery terminals. Cheers and good luck.

 

That red/white wire is from the RR to charge the battery while running--if it was open circuit then battery was drained while riding and was too low to operate the starter motor. Sounds like you almost have it squared away.

 

Well installed the vfrness this weekend cleaned and reinstalled the starter relay it stared fine on Saturday then this morning click took the seat off and checked connections and battery it showed 12.87 hit the start switch it clicks at the starter relay but doesn't spin tapped the start switch a couple more times it fired right up rode it to autozone to drop off loaner tool started up fine then too still waiting on the replacement starter relay to arrive

 

Only part?--Don't kid yourself, you need to get a copy of the FSM and look at page 17-2 for the starting circuit diagram. The starting circuit path goes thru the start switch to the coil then needs to find a ground path by going thru the clutch switch and then to the side stand switch. Have you checked those parts? do you have a good path to ground?

Considering you had a mucked up harness there is no telling what else has been tampered or is defective--better check it all so it doesn't leave you stranded...

 

i have gone thru the service manual if the starter relay is clicking all the circuits work to that point from what i can tell. the starter relay had a lot of corrosion on it i'm just waiting on replacement to arrive to see if that makes a difference. when it does start it fires almost instantly no struggle no issues and runs great i just need to get the starting issue resolved to make it reliable

 

Simple way to test the starter solonoid ,just make sure it is in neutral or on the center stand and put a screwdriver across the 2 terminals on the solonoid, if it cranks every time slonoid is the problem sounds like it probably is

 

use a chit screwdiver or we are gona punch yah in your bread basket!

 

I have phillips head, anti tamper, straight blade, impact, right angle but I can't recall any chit ones unless you are talking about half the ones in my cabinet :tongue-new:

 

im starting to wonder if the starter has a bad spot in it new starter relay is in but still have the same issue of either (no crank and click) or start to crank and stop but if i jump across the battery to the starter it cranks straight away

 

Or the other components of the starter circuit thru which current must flow in order to energize the relay coil have dirty or corroded connections, etc.

This is indicated by the fact that the starter cranks when power is applied across the power terminals of the relay (starter is okay), and that the problem is identical with both old and new relays (either both relays are good or both are bad).

 

Getting power to the switch? Test light could work well here. My starter issue was when the bike was hot, it would have trouble cranking much like a flooded engine. I ended up re-building it and its tits now. I had an issue with a Jeep starter that gave me two days warning before it took a chit. It was kind of funny actually because I ended up getting stuck in a parking lot with my mother-in-law.

I ended up crawling under the truck and wacking the chit oot of that starter motor and low and behold it started, that night I bought a new one and installed it. They had something in bennet auto to test an old starter, I think I tested my new one :loco:

Moral of the story, I think your starter is fried, invest in either an oem or this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/360421967759?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I go with oem when I can. My bike had 80,000 on the original starter btw, which I mentioned aboot a month ago?

 

mines got 91xxx on it and its original too i rebuilt it but im leaning twords it having a bad winding tried to get it to act up last night and this morining but worked perfectly

 

found the problem the #1 carb is leaking fuel into the cylinder causing it to lock up

 

Possible bent rod now if it has locked up that hard. There is a reason why I fit an electric fuel solonoid on my bikes, ignition off no fuel can flow, all these taps are getting old and don't shut off properly and then you just rely on the float needle shutting off the fuel, leave it on the sidestand and the floats can't work properly either

 

I agree, I learned that the "Euro" bikes have a ON/OFF petcock accessible with a RES, imagine my surprise. Then the dude included a schematic, pretty complicated compared to my bikes with the ON/OFF petcock thats only accessible when you remove the seat. Its not a terrible set up really, I replaced my float needles a while ago, Honda does not give away the parts as you know, so you need two seperate ones for each carburetor. Gasket kit, which has the all important bowl gaskets and the needle kit which has the float needles along with the brass seats.

The latest bike I got (guess the previous owner thought that installing a new petcock would cure his rusted oot chit petrol tank.) So, that was one less thing I had to buy :smile: I did install a new petcock on my 91 and it cost me around $75.00.

Reserve is over rated, on another bike where its accessible, I turn it OFF. Simple is nice.

 

thats one of the only things i miss on the 92 compared to the 83 ease of fuel shut off i dont want to have to take off the seat every time i park it to shut off the fuel

 

got a new petcock installed and ive been shutting off the fuel every time i park it but still after sitting for a couple hours i go to start it and it stops mid crank any ideas what could be allowing enough fuel into the cylinders to cause it to lock up it seems like its only the frt left cylinder that fills they all run rich though