Found: 2007 Anniversary 318 miles. What do you guys think??

YUP. I'd rather have ABS, but they are far an few in-between.
But this one is "SWEET"!

 

Hey..What's the 28##??

 

Its your money, spend it the way you want and be happy about it.

Fluids definitely need to be changed - you can see it in the pics, so that's not good.

Me personally - I'd be OK with the price considering its "brand new", but contingent for the sale is they MUST flush all fluids at their cost. Tires would be a bonus.

 

ignore the

Take cash if you can, they will come off that price. Check the date code on the tires and look for cracks. Being 7 years old it would be wise to change all the fluids. Those RWB bikes are sweet. I'm glad they weren't available when I bought mine..it would have made for a tough decision.

 

The only problem that I have with buying a 7 yr. old bike that has so few miles on it is that it was ran up to temp several times or at least for one long ride and then parked for a while. That can cause seals to leak after so much time has passed. Now that's assuming that the bike didn't sit around on a showroom floor or in a warehouse for a while, then recently bought, rode, then traded. If that's the case then my above point is moot.

I would find out the history and make sure all fluids and tires have been changed before it leaves the dealership.
And if the price is ok with you, then it's a fair price.

 

For 6K plus, a dealer would rather finance the bike. If you have to finance. Use your bank or credit union. Cash has little effect on sales at dealerships. Dealers, once they have you in the door, you are on their turf and they are doing what they do every day and you ain't.

One that can be pulled off is to get down to an OTD price with dealer financing, then before the dotted line is signed, balk, giving them some reason like you have to talk to your wife and will come in first thing in the morning the next day. They will offer to let you call free even if you tell them the wife or SO is on Easter Island or Borneo. Have the agreed upon price in your hot hand along with what you really want to pay for the bike the next day. The sales dude will shit and if the dealer has one, the salesdood will call in the sales manager. Cancel the sale at that time and tell the sales dude that you will not put up with any of that kind of razzle-dazzle shit.

All this is on dozens of sites that tell ya how to buy vehicles unless written by dealers who will of course say just the opposite and tell you over the net that they are aboot to sprout white wings.

Sure, go for new rubber and fluids and anything else you can get. The dealer is not going to lose money on the sale. You will never know what the dealer paid for the bike when they bought it. So forget that. The dealer will tell you just the opposite and may even burst into tears.. Check prices on any of the several bike sites dealing with sales and the several sites dealing with "bluebook" pricing.

Just for shits and giggles, I bought the mach 1 91 brand new in 1991 for $6200.00 out the door with a Yoshimura can and the stock can. This bike is literally brand new with that mileage on the odometer and not the clock as our resident shemale's sweetie calls it.

I hope the hell nobody starts telling me the salesdoods are their friends or cousins or lover or any of that. One of my best buds sells Harleys. Outside the dealers doors one of the best dudes youd want to know. Inside he is an animal with three kids to feed. He even bit a guy one day then sold him a Fat Boy..

 

Any possibility of a thorough test ride?

 

If there was a temp spike with that few miles would this be evident on the headers? I agree on the price and the fluids and tires.. Tires that old if they are indeed that old are toast. I would be rattling "lawyer" about every third sentence in case those old tires failed and the wife and ankle biters were left destitute by an unscrupulous dealer and salesdood.

 

On that old rubber?

 

Send sunofwolf for a test ride..he knows everything about everything...he'll give ya his take on how well everything works .

Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2

 

Not really a temp spike but just normal operating temp and then not run for a long time could have adverse effects on seals and orings. Not saying it is that likely, but something to consider.

 

I agree with this only partially. Take him oot but don't bring him back.

 

Got it..Thanks.

 

The dealer not willing to allow a test ride on 7 yr old machine thats prepped is a huge redflag. You don't need to spend an hour on it. Just get it up to operating temp.

 

Seems like a good deal and the miles make the bike "like new" condition. A new VFR800 is around $13,000 so you can do the risk/arithmatic, fact that it is without abs makes it more appealing to me, (but thats just me.) Header pipes don't look mint to me, but its tough to see, with those type of miles, you should be able to eat off of some parts of the engine. Give it a really good look over. Basically I look at fasteners, bolts, etc for signs of having a spanner/wrench on them. I am :loco: though. Its really a pretty good deal if the miles are true and its what you want. A 07 "Busa" around here is around 7000-8000 dollars for way of comparison, if I did not have a little wifey, I would add one of those to my current stable.

I bought my 91 in 1995 with 4000 miles on it, for $4500 and it had some rash on some body panels.

 

solid deal.. not surprised it sold

 

Found my 07 RWB in 2011 with 419 miles on it. Had my eye on a Sprint ST but it sold before I could get to it. The dealer called me up and said he just got an 07 RWB VFR800 on the lot and hadn't even advertised it yet, wanted to know if I was interested. It was pristine. New fluids, new tires, all mine! Got it for $5500. Absolutely no regrets. Love this bike.

I imagine OP either bought it by now or it's gone to someone else.

 

Son of a ...

So, I wrote that post then started thinking, I never really looked to confirm that the tires were new. I took the guy at his word and ASSUMED that meant the dealership put new rubber on the wheels. With only 419 miles on the bike, the tires sure looked new. And, giving the guy the benefit of the doubt, he could have simply been telling me the obvious - "the tires are 'new' because they only have 419 miles on them" as opposed to, "we put new tires on when we took the bike in because the rubber was at least five years old."

I went for a solo ride yesterday and a group ride today through the local mountains and both times had moments where the front slipped just enough to make me pucker but then caught again and all was good. I chalked it up to light rain on roads that haven't been wet for a while. And though that may be true, after "bragging" how I got my '07 with new tires, I decided I better double check. Sure enough, they're the original tires - Bridgestone Battleax 20's mfg in '06! I've been riding on eight year old rubber! Yes, I'm an idiot. Tread looks great with over 5K miles on them but I'm definitely getting new tires.

Don't want to hijack this (probably dead) thread or start yet another tire discussion so I'll just say, I've already decided - going with the Michelin PR 4's. I'm even going to try to do this myself. Any tips you care to pass along on removing the front and rear tires on a 6th gen would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise, I'll be reading my manual and watching videos. Think I'll have the wheels powder coated white while I'm at it.

For anyone curious as to where to look to see the age of your tires, it's on the sidewall, in a rectangle, with a letter followed by 4 numbers (if mfg after 2000). The first two numbers represent the week of the year and the last two numbers, the year. For example, mine is "B 4806" meaning it was mfg in the 48th week of 2006; making them undoubtedly the original tires. Here's a photo I found online (not my tire):

View attachment 28326

 

Thread Hijacked! When you say your going to attempt to remove the tires yourself do you mean remove your wheels from the bike? Or actually remove your tires from the wheels once they're are off the bike?

Front & rear wheel removal is a piece of cake and is covered in your owners manual. Honda recommends protective tape on the front wheel in the area around the calipers. When reassembling there isn't a whole bunch of room & its easy to scratch the wheel with the calipers. Also pay attention to the front wheel spacers. One is longer than the other.

As far as removing your tires from the wheels, don't bother if your getting them professionally powder coated. If your powder coater caters to motorcyclists they should have the proper equipment. Dismount & mounting should be included in the price (ask if so). Or bring them to any bike shop. Powder coating is obviously very durable. But if you've never broke down a wheel/ tire, you could very easily muck it up.

 

Yes and yes! I'm thinking of removing the wheels from the bike AND removing the tires from the wheel. I was thinking it would be a good learning experience. Then again, I don't have the proper tools to remove the bearings (I know some say a hammer and screwdriver are the proper tools) or break the bead but am confident I can figure it out. The wise part of me - which really isn't all that wise - thinks your approach is probably the better approach. I'd hate to screw things up and cause a safety issue or ruin a good powder coat job by hacking my way around this project.

The plan now (as I write this, subject to change at any second) is to get a quote from the local shop for the cost of removing the bearings, valve stem and wheels and then to put new bearings, stems and wheels on after the powder coating is done. I'll do the removal and reinstall on the bike myself. Thanks for your post!