Clutch slipping on my new 4th gen VFR

Just bought the bike. 95' with 45k on it. The bike sat in a garage for a year, so I rode it 50 miles to see whats up with it. Clutch is slipping when cold. It seems to be fine when it warms up to half way on the gauge. Just gave it a part synth 10w 40 oil change yesterday, and its still slipping. I heard the "Push rod" sticking can cause problems. Is this easy to check? on my 86' I rmember a rod sticking out when I pulled the sprocket cover.. Is it the same procedure with the 95? My clutch fluid looks yellow/clear through the sight glass, also. Doesn't look bad. Other ideas? Again, the bike has been sitting for a year.

 

Where does it slip? If you take off in first gear, you got a clear road and you short shift to second and then "get on it" does it slip there? Or does it slip on the higher gears when your feeding in throttle? Its easy to get to the push rod, I don't think thats your problem though.

 

Does the clutch lever engage close to the handlebar, or way out at the end of the stroke?

i'm gonna guess it is out at the end, and the reason is that the tiny return orifice in the bottom of the clutch reservoir (underneath a shiny metal plate if it hasn't been molested) is clogged with spooge or jism. The return path releases the pressure in the slave cylinder (and rod) and allows the pressure plate to do its job and lock up the clutch plates.

 

It does in pretty much any gear when rolling on the throttle. Pretty much ONLY when bike is not fully warmed up. I also read about a small hole in the clutch fluid reservoir that can get plugged and cause similar issues (not fully engaging the clutch). Do I need to replace any gaskets to get to the push rod, or can I take it out, clean it, and put it right back in? It sounds like an easy check, so I want to do that first.

 

5he slave can also stick. Mine does the same thing so I ordered a slave rebuild kit from partzilla.com.....going to take it apart next dead weekend I get~

 

^if your re-build kit don't work, you can always pop for a new slave, they are not that expenisive especially when you factor in the price of the replacement/re-build parts. I never had good results doing the re-builds on slave cylinders, maybe its just me, who knows :loco: brake calipers, and entire other story, they all end happily. Cheers.

 

I must have been typing as you posted that. Yea, its out at the end from what I remember. ill take a look.

hmm I will be looking into a new slave if this doesn't help.

 

Just cleaned out the reservoir, oil orifice with piece of small copper wire, and bled the fluid at the clutch slave. Went for ride and it made no difference..

 

Took the slave off, cleaned the push rod today. Still slipping when cold.

 

Can you shim slave with washers between slave and case? That might move piston far enough away to see if it is disengaging clutch or clutch is bad.

 

Yea I can try that. You think 2 washers over each bolt will do it? And what am I looking for, in terms of findings?

 

Did you clean the master clutch cyclinder oot? You could with everything still hooked up, remove the slave and operate the clutch lever and see if it moves the piston. If it were me, I would clean the master, possilby get a re-build kit for that, invest in a new slave cylinder, and maybe even pop for a braided steel line. End of Story, happy ending. An air assisted bleeder is a nice thing to have when your bleeding the clutch btw.

 

I did all that yesterday. But what would explain that it only slips when its COLD?? I feel like hat has to be some kind of indicator..

 

You did'nt buy a new slave cylinder, did you?

 

Negative. Im no expert, but I don't see how it could be the slave.. the only way it could cause problems is if it sticks open (still applying pressure to the rod) correct? I topped that mofugger off pretty high.. maybe a bit too much. could that be an issue? I also cleaned that orifice out, but used a tiny thin copper wire. Maybe I didn't clean it out good enough?

 

My guess is the plates are expanding enough to take up when hot which indicates you probably need new clutch plates

 

I was trying to think of a way for you to ride the bike and simulate not have the slave bolted on, but still have some control. I thought if slave was not pressing on rod and it slipped, then the clutch is worn, as it should be fully engaged.

 

ahh I see what your getting at. It's worth a try, that's for sure.

 

Be careful trying to get it in and out of gear without the clutch, can do some more damage

 

I agree, that's why I suggested the shims to move the disengagement point, not totally disable it.