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My old t-stat was all distorted and cock-eyed. Get the o-ring and a new oem t-stat. Someone showed me how to grind off the welds on them and run it an "open" position. I don't think this is a good thing to do, even though our bikes don't have a lambda sensor and other chit.

 

Well, Its 90 degrees here and I did a 30 mile ride all highway 100mph for the entire trip. Did 145mph for 4 seconds, stop and go was minimum, got home and the cooling fan was not even on. You have the factory manual I hope. Is the jetting stock? Sounds like carburetion to me.

If you got exhaust leaks, take a can of carb cleaner (not brake cleaner) and spray it where you think you have a leak, you will hear the difference. When I thought I had an air leak on a bike, I sprayed where the insulator bands are that attach the carbs to the motor and heard the difference.

Good luck.

 

Yah, i may do just that... got a list of chit to order anyway. Chu order oem's off bikebandit/babbittsonline places or just ebay the part numbers?

 

Them carbs are synced but i wonder if those bigger jets from factory pro are the culprit. Maybe more shims under the needles?

 

Its an onion, all these layers keep on getting revealed! A lot can be said for having a stock un-molested set-up. Sometimes you hvae to go from crawling to walking and inheriting stuff like this is the typical example.

I goit .02 shims under the needles on my 91 bike, don't really notice a difference. They are already shimed by Keihn btw...Stock main jets are 130? my memory is foggy as I dont take notes on some things. Not more shims, dats for sure. Jason was calling you, "Commrad" kinda kewel actually. ound: :thumbsup: Its all good in the neighborhood....

 

Commrad??? Im no Rusky.... not hate there's anything wrong with them. I dated a Serbian. Part of the Yugoslavic territory that broke up. Peter the Great mashed them folk back in the 1700's. Something about the Cossacks...

 

People, dont drink and post. You'll get chit like this coming out your a$$.

Whats the exhaust setup like on your 94? That year still has the big a$$ collector right? I think im running the bigger of the two jets i got with factory pro's jet kit. I guess i wanted to pants-dyno and see if i noticed a difference.

 

Don't drink and post or you might ruin your keyboard ound:
You removed your stock exhaust system with that full Delvik system, that does not have that "crazy-box" under the exhaust system. This may be part of your problem, I got the stock set-up on both my generation 3 bikes, one has a Vance and Hines slip on thats as quiet as the stocker, but looks nice and weighs less (if this really matters.)

I believe that I could use an entire generation 4 system on my bike, it would be a direct bolt on, anyway, carb tuning can drive a sane man crazy. If you bite the bullet and go to a shop with a dyno, they may help, as they have an exhaust analyzer and other tools to sniff the pipe.

 

I think it's very doubtful that carb setting on your bike are causinmg high heat; far more likely a cooling system issue likie bad thermostat, bad cap, kinked hose. Rad caps wear out after a few years, won't hold the necessary pressure. Some riders see overflow bottle filled and conclude system is also full too: WRONG !! There are several reasons why observed level in overflow may not correspond to a full cooling system, so checking and topping up at the rad filler neck (on a cool engine) is the only best way.

 

Ok, new thermal switch, new thermostat, filled the system cool and then ran without the cap for a bit to burp system. Then periodically added coolant til full. Ride to work today (75 degrees outside) and as soon as I stop temp JUMPS through the roof! Fan is coming on which is a good thing but she's not cooling.

Could it be the rad cap? Is there still air in the system? Should I pull the cover off of the water pump and make sure it's pumping? What's the next thing I should check?

Side note: When I went done on the bike about a month ago it did put a small dent in side of the rad... But I'm talking small. If I knew what the passages looked like internally I could put that concern to rest.

 

1 small dent on the radiator shouldn't be responsible for overheating. And what temperature are we talking about exactly when we see through the roof?

also, have these high temps started since the bike was down? If so, we have an indicator here....

the only thing that would stop water from from pumping is broken blades on the impeller....I would think you would have some noise associated with that~

the only other thing I can think of that would stop heat transfer is crud built up in the actual radiator fins....?

 

Through the roof is temp gauge needle points to the sky. To be honest i cant remember when it started...but definitely wasn't like this last fall. . I went down on the water pump side although it was at low speed and the water pump cover didn't even contact anything ( plastic contacted ground). Although, i wonder if smashing that left radiator hose, squeezing the coolant through the system, might have damaged something.

 

I'm going into the water pump to make sure the impeller is functioning correctly. the system does build pressure because after it warms up you cant squeeze either hose completely. Maybe coolant is just sitting in the system? Maybe it's something unrelated like leaky exhaust? This bike may show up in the classifieds if this keeps up...

 

flushed out the rad side of the cooling system to check out the water pump. Pump looks good and functions.
Filled it back up and burped it a little and the temps did come down. Still may have some air in the lines. Anyone have a good suggestion to bleed the air out?

 

Strange, thermal switch on radiator senses temp of coolant at the radiator. ECT, Engine Coolant Temperature, sensor is somewhere on the engine, probably near thermostat. If you say temp gauge skyrockets when you stop, then that may mean not very much coolant around ECT Sensor when water pump stops and "heatsoak" (latent heat in metal) from engine heats up what is there quickly. You might still have air or a blockage around that area. If you let fan run after you stop, but shut off engine, fan only cools coolant in radiator. If I stop and it is hot, then I let it idle for a minute or two with fan on to bring down temperature.

 

I think that ECT sensor is mounted around the thermostat and has a green lead coming off it???

 

Does it cool back down if you restart it?

 

If by restart you mean "turn the bike off and then back on" then no, it has no effect and the temps stays where they are until the engine temps naturally come down.

The bike temps aren't shooting way up now but it's been so long since this bike was operating normally I'm not sure what normal temp behavior should be. During an 80 degree day, stop and go traffic, should I have the fan running every couple minutes??? Maybe on the engine side of the thermostat I could have air?

 

Noticed some coagulated oil around #2 cylinder...


head gasket? Cylinder gasket?
Oil was brown (coolant?)

 

Jeez, thats a mess! bad valve cover gasket?

My 91 was trailored down here when I relocated to South FL, I never had a problem with over heating in NJ. Bear in mind, I used to run that bike through the winter 12 months oot of the year. The first day I had the bike here in FL, it over heated on me, the temp gauge spiked and coolant ran oot of the over flow tank. I stopped and waited a while unitl temp was down, then rode home fast. Turned oot that I had a blown fuse on the fan, I believe it was always oot, but it never made a difference up North. Down here, these bikes run the fan constantly in stop and go riding. Once you get oot on the road, the fan goes off and the temps go down.

I went oot a few days ago on a 90 degree day, did a 30 mile ride with almost no stops, came home and the fan was not even on.

I would address those oil leaks, unless you want a bike that is territorial and marks its spot (like a HD.) :lol: