Electrical Connector Maintenance / Cleaning Habits / Oxidization Removal

True, but normal high beams would not overload series R/R. When I first got my bike, I thought I would be smart and upgraded my H4s low beams to high output lamps. I went the other way, I put too much load on system and ran battery flat in 3 days! Then I switched to LEDs and found out about series regulators.

 

What do you mean by "high output lamps"? HIDs?

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I think he means 100 watt halogens. HIDs are generally only 35 watts


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Can you dumb this down, for my benefit? Explain: how/why?

I thought dielectric grease prevents corrosion on new connections because it blocks air and water from getting to the terminal interface...not to mention solid particulates in the air (smoke/smog/salty sea air/dirt). People tend to forget that just oxygen by itself is highly corrosive, and water is obviously destructive to electrical connections - both in liquid water and in the form of water vapor (which is IN all air, everywhere on Earth, all the time...just in varying amounts). So, why wouldn't you want to put dielectric grease on new connections and Ox-gard on old connections? What is this "nasty green corrosive powder" you speak of? How can dielectric grease allow this to be produced?

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Dielectric grease is by definition an electric insulator. When you put it in a connection it will cause resistance in that connection. This will make heat. This heat breaks down the grease into a powder. This powder is even more restrictive. The connection makes more heat. It's a viscous cycle that can take months or years but can eventually burn up your connection.


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Mine are 55 watt HIDs. I have 55's all around (installed by previous owner: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Product-Categories/Motorcycle-HID-Kits-Lighting)

Why would someone run 35's if the bike is used to 55's? Not trying to be a jerk...really asking - what would be the reason to NOT go for full brightness. One of my low beam HIDs just died (or maybe the ballast), so I think I'm going to replace both low beams with standard halogen 55w and just keep the 55w HIDs up top/high beams.

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Because 55w HIDs put an enormous load on the electrical system until they are fully warmed up.


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This "walk-through" of your logic makes sense, and I'm inclined to just trust you, but tell us, then, WHEN would someone choose to use dielectric grease? Why is it still manufactured and sold? Not that Honda is infallible, clearly, but I have been using the Honda motorcycle-brand dielectric grease from my Honda dealer this whole time (uh 11 years?) because I thought it was supposed to HELP. What am I missing, here?

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Mine are hooked up to a relay that keeps them off while the bike is using the starter motor, then once the bike is running, they are finally "allowed" to come on. I think most are like this. So, do you mean that as they slowly increase their "glow" aka get brighter over the course of a minute or so, they have some major power draw? Doesn't seem to have ever affected my bike. I mean, the bike starts and it runs and I ride off - what else could I desire?

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Dielectric grease would be best suited to cover exposed metal on a connection that's already been made. Like over the battery terminal connections. But putting it in between the connection is a bad idea.


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Tightwad I. Believe made an hid kit that fired on hid up 30 seconds after starting the bike and the second hid another 30 seconds later. It's a great idea.


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Very true:
Product Description

Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone grease designed to seal out moisture and, therefore, prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. Being non-conductive, it does not enhance the flow of electrical current. This property makes it an ideal lubricant and sealant for the rubber portions of electrical connectors.
Dielectric grease is typically a translucent, grey substance that is insoluble in substances such as ethanol, methanol, mineral oil, and water. It is soluble, however, in the industrial solvent methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) and mineral spirit. It is important to note that dielectric grease will melt silicone rubber over time, and thus should not be used on connectors, such as o-rings, that are made of this rubber.
While the indicated use of dielectric grease calls for it to be used only on the non-metal parts of a connection, it has been shown to be effective at preventing corrosion when applied directly to the metal connectors as well. Care should be taken when using it in this way, because this application can, in some instances, cause the connection to stop working. A common reason for such a failure is that the grease has not been pushed entirely out of the way between the two points of contact.
Dielectric grease is most widely used as a sealant for spark plugs, and is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. The grease not only helps the boot slide onto the ceramic portion of the plug, but prevents dirt, moisture, sand, and other foreign objects from contaminating the seal, and compromising the electrical current. Dielectric grease is also commonly used on the gaskets of multi-pin connectors in car and marine engines.

 

Awesome! Where'd you find that? Link?


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Just Googled Dielectric Grease: http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6706/114923-dielectric-grease

 

Thanks to "nearfreezing", this is the proper compound to use, learn something every day!

[h=2]Ox-Gard™ Anti-Oxidant CompoundOX-100B[/h]Ox-Gard Anti-Oxidant Compound contains prime grade zinc and is formulated with metallic zinc and graphite to create a compound that enhances electrical and thermal conductivity which is used on high power crimp connections and stud bolt mountings. When the connection is tightened, the grease is displaced, leaving a layer of zinc and graphite filling in the surface imperfections of the interface. This has a twofold effect; it improves electrical conductivity and it improves thermal conductivity. This reduces the connection temperature under high power conditions by a reduced voltage drop and by providing a heat conductivity path to the connection’s substrate. Ox-Gard Anti-Oxidant Compound is manufactured with unique grease compounded from custom refined low sulphur oil. The grease base ensures brush-ability over a wide temperature range, tenacious adherence to all surfaces, resistance to water wash out and the prevention of rust/corrosion. This makes the product easier and more reliable to use.

• Makes connections more reliable
• Makes connections more weatherproof
• Protects connections from corrosion
• Reduces temperate rise
• Low sulphur content
• Non-reactive, no gassing in storage
• Brushable over a wide temperature range
• Sticks to wet joints

 

Excellent. Thanks. Wish they would've printed that on the back of the Honda tube. So, basically don't use dielectric grease pretty much anywhere on a bike (except maybe spark plug boots, and even then, don't let it actually touch the metal bits); use DeoxIT spray or "brush-on" (or similar "contact cleaner", as previously mentioned) to clean old connections; and only use Ox-gard, very sparingly, on connectors. Do I understand the collective wisdom, appropriately?


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